Replies

1. 
   MBerger | Sep 08, 2006 12:30am | #1

   Hi Tom,

   Tomorrow I'll take a look through our archives to see if I can find a jig like the one you discribe. I also remember reading a trick for fixing chair legs when one is slightly short, which might work in your case.

   In the meantime, what about this idea: Stand the chair on a flat surface, like the surface of your tablesaw. Make a pencil marking gauge and register one end of the jig on the flat surface, then make a mark on all sides of the leg 5 in. up. From there you can use your choice of tool to cut each leg.

   Matt Berger
   Fine Woodworking

    

1. 
   user-95907 | Sep 08, 2006 05:16am | #2

   Thanks, Matt....Tom

1. 
   MBerger | Sep 11, 2006 05:23pm | #3

   Hi Tom,

   I've looked around and wasn't able to find any jig in our archives. However, I asked some of the other folks in the office who came up with two techniques you might consider.

   The first is exactly what I described in my first email, where you place the chair on a flat surface and then mark five inches up all around each leg with a pencil gauge. This technique is also how you would level four legs that aren't equal, in which case you would wedge the short legs until the chair is level then do your marking.

   The second idea is one that could be done on a tablesaw: Build a plywood base that is just bigger than the footprint of the chair. Drive four screws through the plywood; one into each chair leg. Then build a tall fence for your tablesaw and hold the plywood base against the fence cross cutting two legs at a time. (see drawing below)

   View Image

   Matt BergerFine Woodworking

   Edited 9/11/2006 10:24 am ET by MBerger

   
1. 
   user-95907 | Sep 11, 2006 06:11pm | #4

   thanks Matt! I'll let you know how it goes....Tom

1. 
   user-95907 | Sep 12, 2006 01:42am | #5

   Matt, Here's what I wound up doing: Because I have an Excalibur crosscut sled, I used that, laying the chair on its side on top of a large sheet of MDF on the crossbut sled. I wrapped the chairs in poly to protect them and make them "sticky" so they wouldn't move on the MDF.

   I checked each chair for "flatness" (each chair was flat--all 4 leg bottoms were on the same plane) and used the flat bottoms as reference points. I measured 5 inches from the blade to the right side of my saw, which turned out to be the right miter gauge slot. I used that as my reference for the ends of the legs, checked it with a straight edge and made sure the ends of the legs lined up with the slot througout the entire cut. The last thing I did was to tape the legs to reduce chipping, and also tape a block on to the ends so they wouldn't drop when cut.

   It all went well, and the legs stayed in plane. Key thing was to make sure the chair stayed put during cutting. You get only one chance! Thanks again for your help.

   Tom O'Brien, All Quality Woodworking, Scotts Valley, CA (photos available if you want to see)