Replies

1. 
   IanDG | Mar 15, 2003 03:58am | #1

   It's not just the tool, there's a few things make it a little easier.
   Lay an old blanket on a flat surface and cut the glass on that
   Dip the cutting wheel in light machine oil just before the cut.
   Make one score ONLY across the glass -- if you try and go over it again, the glass won't break straight.
   The score should make a sound like an ice skate if it's done properly.
   Tap the edge of the glass with the back of the cutter directly underneath where the score starts to crack the glass and start the break. Do this at each end of the score if the cut is over 12" or so wide.
   To break the glass, spin the sheet round so that the score is parallel with and directly over the edge of the table and push down on the free end.

   If you're going to do a lot of cutting it's worth buying a pair of glass-cutter's pliers to break the glass along the score.

   IanDG

2. 
   BrianF | Mar 16, 2003 01:13am | #2

   I know what you mean. Of all the tips that Ian left, I think the one about a little light oil on the wheel is the best. I was having the same type of problems, and talked to my glass supplier about a better cutter he told me to sray a little WD-40 on the cutter and see what happens. It's amazing how nicely even a cheap cutter can cut, even free hand, by just adding a little oil.

1. 
   IronDog | Mar 16, 2003 02:16am | #3

   Hi,

   Thanks for the replies. I like the tip about tapping the glass on both ends for wide cuts.

   I have been cutting on a piece of old carpet since I saw that the glass companies do it that way.

   The other neat thing about the cutter I bought is that it has an internal oil reservoir so it's dispensed automatically.

   Also the instructions advised me to clean the glass first. Makes the cut cleaner and the wheel last longer.

   One other interesting thing I've learned in my foray into DIY glass cutting is that you can't cut tempered glass. It will just shatter. Evidently every piece of tempered glass has to be cut to size before the tempering process.

   Tom

1. 
   BRichardso2 | Mar 16, 2003 07:32am | #4

   I enjoy woodworking immensely, glass work too.  I've cut glass as a framer for many a year and have recently taken up stained glass work, don't know why I didn't any sooner.  I would echo the same comments already about the oil, carpet, single cuts, etc.  They all work.  Another helpful jig you might try is obtaining any scrap section of wood measuring 2'x2' or larger depending upon the project size (for example 1/2" plywood) and attach two strips of square molding one on each side at the end of your board.  The molding should be as long as the width of your board.  Set the board on the edge of your table so that one strip of molding is against the edge of the table or work surface.  Now place your glass project on top of the plywood and against the opposing strip of molding, you can now cut or work down and against your project with no fear of anything moving away on you.  This is a helpful jig for any lead soldering work too, so that you don't burn or mar your work surface.

   I use and recommend Fletcher glass working tools.  Best o'luck.

1. 
   UncleDunc | Mar 16, 2003 07:39am | #5

   You mean like this?

   http://www.brendlers.net/oldtools/handsaws/bhook.gif

3. 
   Clay | Mar 17, 2003 09:02am | #6

   I have had a toyo glass cutter for years and I too found that the diifference was amazing.  They cost a bit more but if you cut any quantities of glass they will quickly save you money even just considering the cost of the cutters ... if you figure in the savings from the increased accuracy and speed of the cuts WOW!!