Hi Ernie,
I’m trying to cut 1 3/4″ thick hard maple so that it will be ready for glue up–I’m making a coopered pedestal base for a table. I bought a new Freud Premier Fusion 40T blade and it burns the wood. The same is true for a Forrest Woodworker II with 40T. My Amana Rip Blade didn’t burn the wood but left blade marks. A new 60T blade did the best of all but not without some burn marks. I have a new SawStop Saw (it is great) and have adjusted it properly. What can I do so that when I cut the angles for coopering, they will be ready to glue up?
Warm best wishes,
Adam
Replies
I have had the same problems with burning, saw marks, etc., and have reverted to jointing with very thin (1/23") passes, and very sharp knives to prevent tear out.
This may be my only solution. Thanks.
Adam
Actually, someone suggested using a short fence so that it comes up only to the front of the blade as in cross cutting. They claim that this may relieve some of the pressure which might be causing the burning. They also clalim that this is commonly done in Europe because of safety. Any thoughts before I give it a try?
Your problem could be from a variety of sources, but because you are experiencing it with a variety of blades, I bet you are feeding too slowly. This is a common problem! You can feed much faster than you think you can. Slow feeding results in burning, excessive blade wear which rears its head as the blade dulling too quickly. Take a look at the rate of feed of most stock feeders which feed between 10 and 50 feet per minute. I bet you are feeding no where that fast? If this does not help take two aspirin and email me in the morning and we will look deeper into your burning sensation.
With best regards,
Ernie Conover
Actually, it was giving me heartburn! Anyway, I tried feeding it as fast as possible and there was a big improvement even with a 60T blade, which surprisingly, was the best blade I'd tried before.
Best wishes,
Adam
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