Replies

1. 
   user-302616 | May 21, 2002 04:46am | #1

   You might be able to cut the curves on your band saw if you make a long bench (eg.8ft longx 6in wide ) thats the same height as your band saw table. Place the bench about 18 in away parallel to your bandsaws direction of cut. Now if you place place your post on the band saw table you'll find its supported for a range of motion of about 90-120degrees. Stand between the bench and the bandsaw and rehearse the cut, making sure there are no obstructions  and that the post doesnt fall off the end of the bench when you cut. Adjust the position of the bench accordingly. If you need more range of motion you could make the bench 'L' shaped.

   Good luck.

   Shane

1. 
   bobhallsr | May 28, 2002 07:03am | #14

   I used Shane's method to cut decroative tops on the posts for an arched japanese bridge. My posts were only 5 or 6 ft long and I didn't always move smoothly enough to get a smooth cut. But this is true when you are inexperienced with the bandsaw anyway.

   BJGardening, cooking and woodworking in Southern Maryland

1. 
   kenmussnug | May 28, 2002 04:59pm | #15

   Thanks for all the help, guys. It's great to get so many solutions to a problem. I decided to glue up the beams using 3 2x6's.  I cut each one separately. I also did this because I needed a two-inch dados in the bottom of the post. It looks great. Ken

2. 
   uncommontree | May 21, 2002 05:15am | #2

   Ken

   Bosch has some very long blades for it's Jig saw I have done this before,you do how ever need to go slow to keep the blade from wandering also overheating.

   Fien also produces a Jigsaw that is made for large cuts such as the one you are working on,unfortunately I have yet to find one here in the USA.

                             Rick   ADESIGNS

3. 
   gpwest | May 21, 2002 07:52am | #3

   Ken,

     I have a distant memory of seeing this method used somewhere; it might be worth considering:  

      Build a low platform with heavy duty swiveling castors for the bandsaw to rest on. Set it on a smooth surface (sheet of MDF on the floor, maybe, if your floor isn't smooth enough).  Clamp the post to a bench or other stable surface, same height as the bandsaw table. Maneuver the saw through the cut on its wheeled platform.    If you try this, I would recommend making some practise cuts first.   Just an idea.   GP.

4. 
   ccampbell | May 21, 2002 04:22pm | #4

   I built a pergola last spring and had a similar issue, although I only wanted to be able to cut them off at a level line AFTER they were up.  I tried a long blade in a reciprocating saw but it was much too slow in PT 6x6's.  I ended up using a small electric chainsaw and it worked perfectly and quickly.  It makes a rough cut, but you might be able to clean it up after.  Just a thought...

5. 
   Elcoholic | May 21, 2002 11:11pm | #5

   Porter Cable "Porta-Band".  You can rent it, maybe even from the big orange box.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

6. 
   sschefer | May 22, 2002 06:19pm | #6

   This always made me jitter a bit, but they show them on the home shows all the time.... Its a chainsaw attachment for a skill style circular saw. I've never seen one in the stores around here so I can't tell you where to get them and I don't even know the official name of them. Maybe someone else can chime in.

   Steve - in Northern California

1. 
   SCFrankland | May 22, 2002 11:37pm | #7

   Steve I have used the on a demo home here a couple of years ago. They were made for cutting floor truss off in one clean pass. They worked like the charm but you have to get into a new habit of laying your tools down. Not sure of the name but I think I have a catalog with them in it.Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

1. 
   sschefer | May 22, 2002 11:46pm | #8

   Scott, thanks, it sounds like the same one I'm referring to. Sounds to me like you also understand why the thing gives me the jitters. With a chain saw at least you have a brake that stops the chain immediately. This thing looks like it would spin for a while and setting it down without thinking would be like playing tag with a badger.Steve - in Northern California

2. 
   makita | May 27, 2002 08:59pm | #11

         Steve,

             I think what you are referring too is the Prazi beam cutter attachment for select sidewinders and most worm drives. It cuts to 12'',and is available at Amazon/Tooll Crib for $129.95. It looks like a real beast, but it reviews well and is probably one of those "If you need it, you need IT." sort of tools. As to safety issues, I would think that it's use would be so extraordinary that any thinking person would get their head in the right place before even plugging it in and NEVER get so familiar with its use that you get casual. That said, I'm sure there is someone out there who has managed to cut their thumb of with a scroll saw. I'm sending this to you because I can't  seem to find the first 7 posts in this thread.I miss the old show all button. I hope this helps the original poster. Nevermind that last bit. I just found that if you click on  the original post number, it gets you there.

             Chris

   Edited 5/27/2002 2:07:43 PM ET by Chris

3. 
   SCFrankland | May 28, 2002 05:17am | #12

   Steve that was the I used.Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

1. 
   sschefer | May 28, 2002 05:38am | #13

   Thanks Scott, I've always wanted one of those just didn't know where to get one. Now I do... Not sure what I'll use it for but it should at least impress the neighbors cat.Steve - in Northern California

7. 
   TooManyTools | May 23, 2002 05:47am | #9

   If I remember the show, Norm used a heavy duty router and template with many passes from one side then the other.  3" is pretty deep.  You could cut the secone side close 1/8" or so then use a ball bearing bit.  Amana lists  4" piloted 1/2" bit.

8. 
   woodrae | May 23, 2002 06:53am | #10

   Kenmussnug—

   A traditional cabinetmaker's bowsaw, sometimes referred to as a frame saw, will be just the ticket. You'll need a relatively narrow blade, with somewhere in the region of 3 - 6 tpi (teeth per inch). You can make wonderful scrolling cuts, and the finish should be fine enough for outdoor work. You could even consider making the cuts after the posts are vertical, but I would certainly try to do it landside.

   Check out Garrett Wade or Harris Tools for some beauties.

   —Andy