Cutting “keys” in my miter joint

Mr1911 | Posted in Jigs, Fixtures, Tips & Tricks on May 17, 2008 07:15am

I bought the book Basic Box Making and then the DVD. Doug Stowe goes into great detail about making a box and dressing it up. However, when he cuts keys in his joints w/ a jig and they look great. He does not mention what kind a table saw blade he is using.

The blade I have is an “ATB” tooth design and leaves a V shape grove. A dato blade is 1/4 and too thick.

Ans suggestions on a blade and tooth that is flat and not crazy expensive?

Thanks

Replies

Jamie_Buxton | May 17, 2008 07:34am | #1
Freud has rip blades with flat tops. LM72 is full-kerf. LU87 is thin-kerf.

Mr1911 | May 19, 2008 03:41am | #7
Thanks, for all the good thoughts. I will get the blade (next pay day) and try the file on the box I am working on.

Thanks again!

Ed

shop57 | May 17, 2008 04:39pm | #2
Forrest makes a Woodworker II (special grind) 40T blade that will cut a flat 1/8" kerf. Like all Forrest blades, it is pricy (> $100). I bought one at Woodcraft.
stantheman | May 17, 2008 05:57pm | #3
Mr1911

If you're doing one box at a time, cut by hand in the time it takes to set up the T-saw.
Napie | May 17, 2008 07:48pm | #4
I’ll assume by your name you are a fan of Mr. Browning’s greatest creation??

I used my Forrest Wood Worker II saw blade, (best on the market IMO), and use a small file to flatten the bottom of the kerf so the key sits flat.
WillGeorge | May 18, 2008 12:45pm | #5
Stupid old man here..

If the sticks are wide enough..

Use the blade you have! Cut/Plane/Sand the splines to match!
BruceS | May 18, 2008 06:58pm | #6
ditto the LM72, that's what I use along with a jig to hold the piece at a 45 to the table.

Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

Bruce S.