Replies

1. 
   PanBroil | Aug 04, 2008 02:32pm | #1

   Chop the waste and don't use a coping saw.  If you're using a Japanese saw and still want to use a coping saw (although I can't imagine why you would) then you have to cut a sliver out first so the saw can be maneuvered to make the cut across just shy of the baseline.

   I've chopped hundreds of dovetails and HAVE NEVER had the waste fracture below the gauged line as so many woodworking authors warn.

2. 
   mwenz | Aug 04, 2008 04:52pm | #2

   Hi Kieran,

   I use scroll saw blades. Not sure the make is important (and I would have too look anyway). I believe Joel at Tools for Working Wood sell thin blades for coping saws.

   However, if you begin in the center of the waste to be removed and saw straight down, turn and go to one corner, and then saw over to the other corner it takes a very narrow pin to prevent common, thicker coping saw blades from entering.

   Take care, Mike

3. 
   MikeHennessy | Aug 04, 2008 05:03pm | #3

   You don't need the saw to fit in the kerf. You can cut down to the line at a curved diagonal, starting about the center of the waste piece, and cutting to the original kerf, removing a smallish piece. Then you can cut along the line in the other direction. I just use hardware store coping blades for this. It takes about 30 seconds per pin/tail in hardwood.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

1. 
   ktkamm | Aug 04, 2008 05:06pm | #4

   Thanks Mike and Mike.

   Kieran

4. 
   Woodhead | Aug 07, 2008 07:25am | #5

   I saw the waste, it is quieter and quicker and with saw kerf wide pins, more practical.  I use a 12.5 tpi skip tooth 5" scroll saw blade held in a fret saw.  You can get this down a .022" kerf easily and if you saw while turning you can cut close enough to the line the balance is a few easy chops with a chisel.  The coarse skip tooth blade cuts realitively fast and the fret saw holds it taunt enough that it wont bow when cutting.  Woodcraft stores carry the saw and blades.  Cheers

   Rob Cosman

1. 
   ktkamm | Aug 07, 2008 01:43pm | #6

   Thanks for the info Rob. I have three of your DVDs and have found them to be well done and very informative. During some of the recent periods of hot and sticky weather here in Maine, I found myself wishing I was in your workshop and looking out on the water and falling snow (as it was in some of the DVDs). Thanks again.  Kieran

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Aug 08, 2008 10:27pm | #7

   You're probably going with Rob's method.. but I will throw another at you. I take the stock after I cut the outside lines by hand over to my 12" BS and make 2-3 straight relief cuts to the base line. Back to the bench and place the stock on a backer-board.

   I  made a 16" wood jaw screw clamp that I clamp at the base-line to use a reference fence over stock.. backer.. and work-bench with one edge of the clamp butted to the marker gauge cut line. Vertically stand an ole Marples blue beater with the back flush to the fence (outside of clamp jaw) and chop it out.

   The reference fence assures 90* degrees and a sharp chisel assures a razor sliced wall with no additional clean-up. It's pretty quick as I have done over 400 DT's in the last 4 months. I have never tried Rob's method with the SS but I might just to see how I like it. But.. my way is also quick I assure you.

   Sarge..

   Edited 8/8/2008 3:28 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47

1. 
   ktkamm | Aug 08, 2008 10:58pm | #8

   Thanks Sarge. You are right about Rob Cosman. I will give your method a try. I have always enjoyed reading your posts and looking at your work.  I invariably learn something and get inspired.  Thanks again. Kieran