I’m building a new office using Formica for the surface of the counter top. The counter top is “L” shaped with a triangular section set into the 90 degree corner so I can put my computer keyboard into an under-the-counter pull-out shelf.
Question: What tool should I use to cut the triangular piece of Formica so I can get good clean edges with no tear-out so the edges will mate nicely with the two larger pieces on the counter. I have a table and radial and portable reciprical saw, but I don’t trust them not to create rough edges.
Replies
1) You can cut Formica very cleanly on the TS with an 80- or 90- tooth blade.
2) You can also cut it perfectly well with a router and trim bit. Use a straight edge for the router.
I have to say that usually the formica is cut oversized and glued to its substrate, then trimmed. If there's no special reason to cut it accurately before gluing, why not this way?
DR
Ring: A 4' X 8' sheet of Formica leaves no waste, and at $86 for just that one sheet, I'm willing to piece the 45 degree corner. I'm going to follow your advice: cut the triangle on my TS, trim it with my router, then mate it to the two pieces on the two legs of the counter. Thanks!
What size is your "L"? You can get laminate up to 60"x144" usually. If this covers your size lay it up in one piece. It eliminates the seams. Even if one of the legs is longer than that I would probably put the seam on the straight part of one of the legs. Corner seams are kind of unsightly. Your eye is drawn to corners and will follow the seams. If you move the seam out of the corner your eye is not drawn to it, and with a good color matched seam filler it is virtually imperceptable.
If you have to make seam use a router and a GOOD straight edge. It leaves a cleaner edge than a tablesaw and creates a better seam. Is this to be a seam in the laminate only, or after the laminate is laid on the substrate and assembled onsite?
Good Luck!
Brian
Edited 1/13/2006 9:58 am ET by BrianF
Brian: I think you solved my problem. Thanks!
If you will cut both pieces at the same time (clamp both pieces to your straightedge). Then if your straightedge makes a zig in one piece, there will be a corresponding 'zag' in the matching piece. Make a reference mark to facilitate alignment. Works for me!
---Rocotoed
Thanks, that makes a lot of sense.
Not sure if you are aware that you can get formica and the other laminates in two thickness'. Both have the same color thickness but one has a thinner backing and this is the one they use for post formed countertops. The thinner backing gives you a much thinner line where the two surfaces meet at an edge or a corner and generally looks better. It also the one used in most commercial shops in my area.
Brian
2 X 4: I didn't know about the thickness choices. I'll check that out. Thank you!
Bailey
I would use the thicker formica, the thin stuff used for post formed tops is harder to handle. You can buy laminate with the color going all the way thru if you do not want the dark line. I use a dovetail bit instead of a straight bit , the dovetail bit undercuts the laminate slightly for a tighter fit. When joining two tops , I let the laminate protrude 1/4' past the mdf on one piece. The mating piece the laminate is kept back 1/4". I tack a scrap onto the first edge to protect until installation.When installing the tops, the top with laminate short of the edge goes down first. Then the other top is installed. Titebond 11 or 111 is used instead of contact for the 1/4". I use a caul on the edge of the seam. Clamped at the front, sticks from the cabinet bottoms to the caul puts pressure on the rest. Wait an hour or so before cleaning excess glue. Most of the time a damp rag and a little elbow grease will take care of the squeeze out.
mike
Mike: Really good ideas. I'll try them. Thanks!
Paul
The thicker stuff is called horizontal grade (HG), the thinner stuff is vertical grade (VG) with other grades being available specifically for post forming, although they needn't concern you. I'd agree that cutting Formica on a saw can be a bit fraught as the stuff has a tendency to submarine beneath your rip fence, so if you go that way attach a piece on U-section plastic binding clip (the sort used by copy centres, etc) to your rip fence and locate the Formica in that. Using a zero clearance plate also helps.
Scrit
Thank you, that is very good advice.
You probably already know this but if your "edging' the countertop with laminate it needs to be installed first before the top so the top is over the edge and your router has a nice "edge" guide to follow when trimming. If using a wood edge and trimming with a 45 deg bevel bit no problem. One other trick with a router trim bit, wrap one layer of masking tape to the guide wheel to make the cutter "cut" just a hair long to prevent nicking the laminate edge then finish with a file and sandpaper block. Good Luck.
I do plan on edging with wood, but your idea about using tape on the router bit is a good one. Thanks.
Dont you just hate when you burn an edge!!!!!!!!! They need to make bearings a hair larger then the bit. someone told me that cmt does.
-Lou
i didnt take time to read all these responses.
I would just like to say cutting formica on a table saw before it is attached to a substate is wrong and dangerous.
There is no reason not to cut it oversize with a scoring tool and glue it down and the use a router w flush trim bit to make a perfect edge.
good luck
Sharp,
I work in a commercial shop with 7 other cabinetmakers. We cut laminate everyday on the tablesaw. It is only dangerous if you are not careful or don't know what you are doing.
Opinions vary........
Thanks,
-Paul
Couldn't agree more.
Brian
You are right. The scoring tool is the advice I am getting. I didn't want to buy one (over $10 for a one-time job). My local hardware store offered to let me use their scoring tool they use for lucite panels.
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