Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Dec 16, 2003 11:58pm | #1

   I cut plex(acrylic) frequently on the tablesaw. Use the thinnest kerf blade you have with as many as possible, 60-80 or more. Also, on thin plex, 1/8 th or less, it tends to ride up on the teeth,so keep blade height just above the piece.And carbide is best or else the blade'll have a short life.

1. 
   Steinmetz | Dec 17, 2003 03:34am | #7

   jackplane, what about rate of feed and feet per miute( blade speed)  Diameter of blade?  Coolant?   Stein.

1. 
   jackplane | Dec 17, 2003 05:49pm | #9

    Rate of feed- Depnds on the thickness of the plex. Blade(rim) speed- standard. Size- whatever size your saw handles;obviously the bigger the blade the higher the rim speed. No coolant necessary.

   We use a dedicated saw with 1/16th kerf,carbide. But for smaller or occasional use, other blades will work.

   Edited 12/17/2003 9:57:46 AM ET by JACKPLANE

   Edited 12/17/2003 9:59:14 AM ET by JACKPLANE

1. 
   adrienne4468 | Dec 17, 2003 05:58pm | #10

   Although I have yet to try it I have read that you can polish the edge of plexiglas and lexan with a propane torch. Use it sparingly and you will have a polished surface as good as the face. I just cut some last night and will try it this evening.

   Tony

   We already have enough youth, how about a fountain of smarts.

1. 
   jackplane | Dec 17, 2003 06:03pm | #12

   You're right! That's how we produce a clear edge.Be sure to remove any saw marks with a hand scraper for best results, and use a light touch or else you'll crack the acrylic.

   This'll work with all acrylic but avoid polycarbonate because the high carbon content will only blacken the edge.

2. 
   Steinmetz | Dec 17, 2003 07:27pm | #14

   Thanx Jackplane for the info on cutting plexi.

    Thanks also to Frozen,Tony,Beck2512 and Bill

   Would it help or hinder to 'soap up' the blade, to avoid gumming up the teeth?  I made a blackjack card 'Shoe' and discard tray from plexi but the glue up was a %$&#up. Stein

1. 
   jackplane | Dec 17, 2003 07:35pm | #15

    No soap or lube is needed on the blade,small bits and chips should wipe off easily. Cheaper grades of plex are softer,hence they scratch easier.

    Glue-up takes some time to learn to do it well.As you may know,methylene chloride is nasty and toxic unless you've got real good ventilation.I avoid it.You can  use clear tape like mylar, instead.

   Good luck.

2. 
   Steinmetz | Dec 17, 2003 09:47pm | #16

   Thanx again, Stein.

   Edited 12/17/2003 1:48:32 PM ET by steinmetz

2. 
   scooter1 | Dec 17, 2003 12:26am | #2

   It will melt and you will not have a very satisfactory cut, but it works. A hand saw devlops less heat.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

3. 
   charlesm | Dec 17, 2003 12:54am | #3

   Bill,

   There are blades specifically for this purpose that minimize heat to reduce the chance of melting. The Freud model for 10" saw is LU94M010. It is 80 teeth with a modified triple chip grind.

   Charles M

   Freud, Inc.

1. 
   Sphere | Dec 17, 2003 01:00am | #4

   I absolutly LOVE that blade. Wish I had 2.

4. 
   JohnWW | Dec 17, 2003 01:07am | #5

   Bill,

   With all due respect to Boris, you can cut plexiglass on a tablesaw.  The best blade for the job is, not too surprisingly, a plexiglass cutting blade, which is made by all of the big suppliers.  The Freud blade has a negative 3 degree hook angle and a triple chip grind on 80 teeth.  The carbide used is especially hard and the blade is probably not cheap.

   Wear eye protection, it is possible to have the sheet shatter and throw pieces although I've never had that happen in the few hundred cuts I've made. 

   For a small job you can try using a fine tooth miter saw blade or a fine tooth blade meant for cutting veneered plywood.  I've had good results with the latter, although the edge needed some cleaning up.  On the edges a hand held power planer with carbide blades is handy but a block plane and sandpaper will also work reasonably well.

   John W.

5. 
   VeniciaL | Dec 17, 2003 02:33am | #6

   Bill,

   I use a 60 tooth Dewalt carbide blade. It works just fine. It does not melt the plastic. Keep the teeth just a little higher than the surface of the plastic. I always use a sled. Hold the plastic down as the blade enters as the sheet has a tendancy to lift. But it will come right back down even without pressure applied close to the kerf. Use a zero clearance insert. Nothing really much out of the ordinary. The cut is clean as is. But a few swipes with 220-320 makes it satin smooth.

   VL

6. 
   moltenmetal | Dec 17, 2003 03:23pm | #8

   FYI it's also possible to cut polycarbonate sheet (Lexan, Tuffak etc.), which is also a clear sheet product.  You can get away with a standard carbide sawblade, with as many teeth as possible- but the saws with the special grind help a lot.  PC shatters much less easily than acrylic, but has the same tendency to ride up on the blade.   Keep the scratch covers on the while you're cutting it.  If they've already been removed, use masking tape to cover the kerf on both sides to control chipping.

   I've also cut both materials with good, sharp Bosch jigsaw blades.  In my experience, you'll only get "melting" if you have a dull blade or use excessive speed.

7. 
   beck4000 | Dec 17, 2003 05:59pm | #11

   I do it with my Tablesaw, no problems...Use a 80 tooth Blade,and I put masking tape on both sides that I wnt to cut..it will make the saw glide better that way..

   I am just a Woodworker,But I know Nothing..
8. 
   Frozen | Dec 17, 2003 06:17pm | #13

   I recall a FWW article on cutting various plastics, including acrylic and lexan. Someone with more time and experience could probably look it up. It was several years ago.

   I've cut a few pieces over the years, with an 80 tooth cut-off blade. The one thing I've noticed is the volume of plastic shavings that seem to stick to everything by static electricity.

9. 
   Mackwood | Dec 18, 2003 05:53am | #17

   Bill,

   Frozen (#14) hit on the really ugly part of cutting plex. on the TS.  The mess is ungodly!  The residue clings to everything.  You may be aware that you can cut the stuff very nicely by the "scribe and break" method.  Depends on how nice of an edge you need.  Just a thought.

   Mack

10. 
    badoyn | Dec 18, 2003 06:26pm | #18

    I've cut many thicknesses of plex and lexan with no problems. With the thin stuff I sandwiched it between some 1/4" plywood to make it a bit safer...at least to me.

    Michael