Replies

1. 
   John_D | Apr 27, 2006 09:16am | #1

   Assuming you're using power tools, it's important to use the right blade.  A good ply/melamine blade makes a huge difference, whether you're using a table saw or a circular saw.  I did some rough cuts with a cheap circular saw recently, and a $7 plywood blade made a HUGE difference in the cut.  A nicer blade, I'm sure, would have done even better.  The surface off a 80 tooth plywood blade on my Unisaw looks like it's been jointed.

   If you're looking for an even better surface, you can do a scoring cut first.

   Hopefully someone else will kick in with other solutions if you're not using a circular or table saw.

   My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
2. 
   Chuck24 | Apr 27, 2006 05:30pm | #2

   Tape the area you wish to cut with Blue painters tape and use a good carbide blade.

3. 
   Mrhermit | Apr 27, 2006 05:42pm | #3

   Use the EZ Smart Guide System.
   The chipping problem will be eliminated, either for ripping or crosscuts in plywood.
   Check out this web site: http://ezsmarttools.com/

1. 
   Burts | Apr 27, 2006 08:53pm | #5

   Let me refine that comment just a little and make it the EZ Smart Cabinet Maker.

   Here is a link to some videos of it in action.

   http://eurekazone.com/gallery/Cabinet-maker-in-action

    

   Burt

    

4. 
   mike_b | Apr 27, 2006 07:54pm | #4

   The best way is with a sliding table saw with a scoring blade or a really good vertical panel saw. But, as many of us don't have the $13,000 and up to spend on equipment like this, we look for cheaper alternatives. I have to cut everything down to a manageable size before I can bring it into my basement and I use a circular saw and homemade guide that works as well as anything commercially available. Granted, I recut everything to final size on my table saw, but the cut quality on the guide/circular saw set up would be acceptable if needed. And, as John D says, a really good blade is key.

5. 
   Lataxe | Apr 27, 2006 10:24pm | #6

   As others have said, get the right blade.  Those with alternate bevel teeth at 40 or 45 degrees and 80 teeth (on a 10ins blade) are the best.

   I employ one of these blades on my not-$13,000 TS (more like £1300) using its sliding carriage.  This will cross cut even the thinest of veneer om ply or blockboard with no discernible breakout, making a scoring saw blade redundant.

   A zero clearance inset in the TS helps; buy even without one, the cut is very clean. A true running arbor (ie a quality-engineered TS) is also necessary.

   I'll post you a couple of photos (of blade, saw and cut) tomorrow.

   Festool-style circular saws using a guide rail with a rubber strip right next to the blade (and a pointy ATB blade, as described above) also work, I'm told (but I have no personal experience of these).

   Lataxe

1. 
   SantaBarbaraSawDust | Apr 28, 2006 03:09am | #7

   I agree with everyone's advice regarding the use of a good 80 tooth blade. If that's not handy, or available, score your cut line with a knife to cut the veneer and then cut the plywood with the best blade you have. You will be pleasantly surprised at how much better your cut will be by adding this step if all you have available are saw blades made for other types of wood.Terry
   Santa Barbara,CA

6. 
   Lataxe | Apr 28, 2006 10:50pm | #8

   E,

   Here are the promised pics.

   As you can see, the join at the glue line of a 1 inch piece of solid cherry to the cross cut cherry veneered blockboard is very clean.  There really is no discernible breakout in the veneer with this blade.  The veneer is the thinnest you can imagine - less than 1/32 ins.

   The blade is a Scheppach but there are others just as good.

   Lataxe

   
1. 
   ecoore | Apr 29, 2006 05:31pm | #9

   Thanks these pic realy help a lot