Cutting plywood with a Circular saw
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I have 2 questions related to cutting plywood with a hand-held circular saw. I am trying to get good quality cuts because I want 2 sides presentable (…in addtion to scoring and taping the line of the cut….). Any suggestions?
1. Can anyone recommend a decent (7.25″) blade for sheetgoods? Thinn kerf would be cool.
2. Is it possible to make a zero clearance base for a circular saw? I was thinking of screwing some polypro sheet to the bottom and plunging the blade through it.
thanks, Jeff
Replies
Jeff, I use an inexpensive but good Vermont America 150 tooth HSS blade for plys and veneers. I stay away from the carbides since a sharp HSS blade seems to perform as well and is relatively inexpensive to replace. I have several of these hanging on the wall. When a blade gets dull it goes into the trash.
As for a zero clearance base. Yes, that is exactly how you make one and they do help quite a bit. You can use 1/4" masonite if you want, it works well.
One of the slickest tricks I've learned is to buy a sheet of 3/4" MDF. Lay the MDF down on a flat surface and put your material on top of it. Set your blade to cut about 1/16" below the material so that you cut through it and slightly into the MDF. Tearout on the underside will be virtually elimintated.
Steve - in Northern California
Edited 6/17/2002 12:07:08 PM ET by Steve Schefer
Steve -
Thanks. I like the idea about the MDF underlayment...I've been laying the sheets across the bench top with scraps to spare the top and support the pieces as it is. This seems a lot safer and easier to handle with one set of hands.
Jeff
I too, use 150 tooth no set, planer type blade and get pretty good cuts. Throw it out when it gets dull.
A zero clearance sole plate is also a good idea. However, you lose the ability to use the blade guard so be careful.
Check out the link below for a set of plans to make a zero clearence base plate for your saw.
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/woodtips/wstip14.html
Scott C. Frankland
Newfoundland Wood Worker
I do very little work with plywood ( thank God), but when I have, I get excellent results, by setting the saw so that it only cuts through the top veneer, and then making a pass with the saw being pulled backwards ( like a radial arm saw). Then set it for the full depth and cut in the normal fashion. There is little danger in this climb cut since the saw is only set to cut about 1/32" As for blades I like the finer tooth carbide ones made by Irwin. They cost very little, cut nicely and last. I have only used a worm drive saw, since I like the grip and the saw runs much more smoothly, which contributes to a better cut.
I started using a Freud laser cut, thin kerf blade. It's the best I've found yet. I have had some tear-out on thin veneers, but I'll try Steve's suggestion. Good Luck,
Len (Len's Custom Woodworking)
Sears has 200 teeth 7.25 blades which cut across grain with extremely little tear out, about $10 and my local place charges $3.50 to sharpen them, use tipped ripping blade with the grain. I use a Makita saw with the enclosed blade (5057 maybe the number) with the vacuum hooked up for the huge amount of dust created.
Edited 6/19/2002 11:32:24 AM ET by NIGELUSA
Edited 6/19/2002 11:34:11 AM ET by NIGELUSA
I have not used a zero clearance insert on my saws, but I am at best skeptical about their usefulness. Even professional grade circular saws, have quite a bit of play in the arbors ( this why I like worm drive saws as they are much tighter) As the blade comes up to speed, it will wobble so much that the benefit of the insert will be diminished or lost altogether.
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