Replies

1. 
   sschefer | Jun 17, 2002 07:06pm | #1

   Jeff, I use an inexpensive but good Vermont America 150 tooth HSS blade for plys and veneers. I stay away from the carbides since a sharp HSS blade seems to perform as well and is relatively inexpensive to replace. I have several of these hanging on the wall. When a blade gets dull it goes into the trash.

   As for a zero clearance base. Yes, that is exactly how you make one and they do help quite a bit. You can use 1/4" masonite if you want, it works well.

   One of the slickest tricks I've learned is to buy a sheet of 3/4" MDF. Lay the MDF down on a flat surface and put your material on top of it. Set your blade to cut about 1/16" below the material so that you cut through it and slightly into the MDF. Tearout on the underside will be virtually elimintated.

   Steve - in Northern California

   
   

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   Edited 6/17/2002 12:07:08 PM ET by Steve Schefer

1. 
   Jeff_NC | Jun 17, 2002 07:14pm | #2

   Steve -

   Thanks.  I like the idea about the MDF underlayment...I've been laying the sheets across the bench top with scraps to spare the top and support the pieces as it is.  This seems a lot safer and easier to handle with one set of hands.

   Jeff 

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Jun 19, 2002 04:36am | #6

   I too, use 150 tooth no set, planer type blade and get pretty good cuts. Throw it out when it gets dull.

   A zero clearance sole plate is also a good idea. However, you lose the ability to use the blade guard so be careful.

2. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 18, 2002 01:53am | #3

   Check out the link below for a set of plans to make a zero clearence base plate for your saw.

   http://www.woodworkingtips.com/woodtips/wstip14.html

   Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

3. 
   RLMillard | Jun 18, 2002 02:10pm | #4

   I do very little work with plywood ( thank God), but when I have, I get excellent results, by setting the saw so that it only cuts through the top veneer, and then making a pass with the saw being pulled backwards ( like a radial arm saw). Then set it for the full depth and cut in the normal fashion. There is little danger in this climb cut since the saw is only set to cut about 1/32" As for blades I like the finer tooth carbide ones made by Irwin. They cost very little, cut nicely and last. I have only used a worm drive saw, since I like the grip and the saw runs much more smoothly, which contributes to a better cut.

4. 
   LRutherfor1 | Jun 19, 2002 04:22am | #5

   I started using a Freud laser cut, thin kerf blade.  It's the best I've found yet.  I have had some tear-out on thin veneers, but I'll try Steve's suggestion.  Good Luck,

   Len (Len's Custom Woodworking)

5. 
   nigelUsa | Jun 19, 2002 07:09am | #7

   Sears has 200 teeth 7.25 blades which cut across grain with extremely little tear out, about $10 and my local place charges $3.50 to sharpen them, use tipped ripping blade with the grain. I use a Makita saw with the enclosed blade (5057 maybe the number) with the vacuum hooked up for the huge amount of dust created.
   

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   Edited 6/19/2002 11:32:24 AM ET by NIGELUSA

   
   

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   Edited 6/19/2002 11:34:11 AM ET by NIGELUSA

1. 
   RLMillard | Jun 20, 2002 01:54am | #8

   I have not used a zero clearance insert on my saws, but I am at best skeptical about their usefulness. Even professional grade circular saws, have quite a bit of play in the arbors ( this why I like worm drive saws as they are much tighter) As the blade comes up to speed, it will wobble so much that the benefit of the insert will be diminished or lost altogether.