Replies

1. 
   PeteBradley | Nov 08, 2005 04:02pm | #1

   All sorts of exciting possibilities come to mind. A few more details on what you're trying to accomplish would be helpful.

   Pete

1. 
   captainwheelhouse | Nov 08, 2005 04:24pm | #2

   I know the boards won't be large.  I've cut several before out of cypress, pecan, oak, hackberry, and mesquite. I don't have a joiner and use my DeWalt DW746 table saw and DeWalt 13" thickness planer to get the boards to the size I want them. I'm using a Poulan 18" chain saw. I lay the log on the ground and use several stakes to stabilize it while sawing. Normally I can run the pieces through my planer making 1/32" passes due to the roughness.  I didn't feel safe running the pecan through my planer due to the rough cut and had to take them to a local cabinet shop. I usually end up with boards 1 to 2 inches thick.  Haven't planed any to the final dimensions I'm looking for.....3/8 to 1/2" as the wood is still drying...did end coat with wax. I'm thinking a better jig would be helpful and not result in as much waste. Eventually I'd like to use the boards for small boxes and keys for mitered joints......

1. 
   EdHarrison | Nov 08, 2005 05:35pm | #5

   I do the same thing that you are doing, but I add the fact that I use sawhorses to get it up off the ground and I use my Stanley 5 1/2 C plane with a blade that can be quickly resharpened (sharpened at a straight 30 degree bevel and well-predictable in sharpening characteristics) to get the billets roughly flat.  I use a a bar of that "gulf wax" available where canning supplies are sold on the bottom of the plane to make it work faster and smoother. 

   I am making a lot of stuff from dogwood I have from hurricane Ivan in 2004 now, and laying in a stock of project wood including dogwood, pecan, sycamore, and some unidentified as of yet hardwoods from that damn b**** Katrina's bounty.

   I have two chainsaws now, one with an 18 inch bar and one with a 20 inch bar.  Both are well-sharpened and tuned but I'm going to order a ripping chain blade off the internet for the 20" one.

   Take care, Ed

    

    

1. 
   PeteBradley | Nov 08, 2005 05:43pm | #6

   Your local power equipment shop can grind you a rip chain also.

   Pete

2. 
   MiKro | Nov 08, 2005 04:50pm | #3

   AHHHH!!!!

   Bubba building!!      :))))))  LOL!!!

   Works great building deer blinds along with a good screw gun and extra batteries.

   Been there, got the Tshirt!!!

   Might Try Northern tools they have different milli attachments.

   http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatDsp?storeId=6970&N=100+85630&Ne=2

   MK

   
   

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   Edited 11/8/2005 9:24 am by MiKro

3. 
   maddog3 | Nov 08, 2005 05:12pm | #4

   .....I have a link from VATom at BT, he and I were discussing similar thoughts.........

   http://www.baileys-online.com/

   look for the Beam Machine ........on the Sawmills page of the on-line catalog....you might have to modify your chain to use it however, which would require resharpening to reduce the anti-kickback feature and allow a more aggressive cut......

   "
1. 
   maddog3 | Nov 08, 2005 05:48pm | #7

   here is the thingy......"

   
4. 
   JohnWW | Nov 08, 2005 10:57pm | #8

   With the proper precautions, that are required with any chainsaw work, you can do this safely and fairly efficiently, though you will waste a lot more wood than cutting with a bandsaw. 

   Go to a shop that sells and services chainsaws and get a chain or two ground for rip cutting, they'll work much better than a standard chain which has a tooth geometry meant for crosscutting.  Removing the bark, before you saw, will considerably extend the life of the chain between sharpenings.

   Seal the ends of the boards with paint or a specialty sealer to prevent end checking while the stock seasons.

   John W.