Replies

1. 
   ubc | Dec 08, 2009 07:36pm | #1

   Here's the pics resized for your viewing comfort.

   
1. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 08, 2009 08:48pm | #2

   Great question! I have never tried that!

   I thought at first a 'normal' taper not for the thickness! I was supprised when I saw the pictures. My old brain thought something very different.

   I would think you could do with many tools with two straight side runners adjusted for the taper you want. Sort of like a thickness jig used for a hand plane with a taper for thicknessing?

   I guess I am still unsure what your outcome needs to be. A tapered groove? A tapered slab?

   EDIT: Then I thought why a rabbet joint that tapers in depth? Why not just cut it's mate at a tapered edge?

   What am I missing from this picture in my mind?

   Edited 12/8/2009 12:54 pm by WillGeorge

2. 
   RalphBarker | Dec 09, 2009 08:01pm | #3

   I would have approached the problem in about the same way using a router. Or, mark it and do it by hand.

   "Perfection" might require a CNC rig.

3. 
   Routerman | Dec 10, 2009 01:16am | #4

   Many samples or just a few? I also would like to know why.

   Notwithstanding, a precision sled can be made, (given an appropriate fence), to accommodate the taper. Not something you can walk up to, but accurate to your standards nevertheless.

   Understand that the metrology of wood, to a large measure,  is guesswork. There are mill marks to contend with, measuring technique sensitivities, the measuring tool/s, and the fuzz from the cutter/s that obfuscate a precise measurement.

   Key here is to be able to get your assembly to nest together sweetly indepenedent of the exact numbers. That, I think, is possible. From there you work backwards from a set of parts that articulate they way you want them. You can record the settings of the jig/s and the initial dimensionality of the work. Do the same procedure, measure if you'd like, & reproduce the desired result empirically. Gotsta know how many parts we're talking about to take the next step.

   Works in .001's.

    

4. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 10, 2009 01:26am | #5

   Think super-sized mortising block. Clamp your workpiece vertically, with the edge to be rabbeted facing up. Then clamp a straight edge along the top of the jig at the correct angle and run the router against it, cutting your rabbet.

   Alternatively build an extra-long and extra-tall table saw fence and tack a block to the back of your workpiece and run the workpiece through on edge.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodworks.com
   and www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com)

    - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

5. 
   knuts | Dec 10, 2009 04:09pm | #6

   Find someone nearby with a Woodrat & mortise rail. Install an offset block to give you the tracking angle needed and rout away.

6. 
   MikeHennessy | Dec 10, 2009 05:19pm | #7

   I'd cut the shim on the TS with a taper jig -- or probably 2. Tack them on to your stock and run the rabbet on the TS using a dado set.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA
   Everything fits, until you put glue on it.

   PS: How wide will the poplar be?

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/10/2009 9:20 am ET by MikeHennessy

1. 
   ubc | Dec 10, 2009 06:57pm | #8

   poplar is 1/2" thick and 1 1/8" wide. table saw and taper jig is the way to go. I cut the tapered shim on the bandsaw and then ran it over the jointer to clean it up.

   Worked out good.

1. 
   ubc | Dec 10, 2009 06:59pm | #9

   I'll post some photos of what I'm making. Thanks to everyone for the advice.

7. 
   Marsupial | Dec 10, 2009 09:14pm | #10

   Rip the taper on a tablesaw with a tapering jig and then tape that to your workpiece and run the router against it.  You can buy a tapering jig for your tablesaw or make a one-use model with scraps.

1. 
   ubc | Dec 12, 2009 05:42am | #11

   Here's some shots of what I came up with.

   
1. 
   James R. | Dec 12, 2009 06:12am | #12

   I give up, what will this become upon completion?Jim

1. 
   ubc | Dec 12, 2009 07:08am | #13

   Wall paneling.

1. 
   James R. | Dec 12, 2009 08:43am | #14

   If Knots is still functioning when you're finished please post a photo. I really would like to see the finished product.Thanks, Jim

2. 
   ubc | Dec 12, 2009 07:03pm | #15

   Will do. It will be about a week as I have other projects but I'll make sure to post 'em.