Is there a way to accurately taper all four sides of square legs on the table saw? The cherry I am using has many tiny knots, so I don’t want to do them on the jointer. Thanks.
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Replies
GLB ,
Yes, the method I use is to create a taper jig with a notch or step equal to the amount you are removing .I make them out of 3/4" plywood or whatever is on hand .
The first two edges you taper are fine but the next two need support where they have already been tapered or a different jig hence the step comes in at this point , you can actually cut a small block and hot glue or pin it in place .
hope this helps , if you want to know more just ask
regards dusty
Thanks for the reply. The problem is, the second set of tapers must be at exactly twice the angle of the first. I have found no good way to set that angle. Do you know how?
The simplest way is to make two jigs; one for the first two sides and a second (with twice the angle) for the other two sides.You could also use a single jig by providing a way to support the bottom end of the leg at a constant height. A support leg at the bottom of the jig with a small nail to fit in a hole drilled in the center of the leg works fine.
G , Donald has it right , gee , you didn't tell us about the different angles .
Two jigs would be handy but if you will never use this again cut the smaller tapers then re shape the jig to cut the other tapers , guess I'm thrifty . I keep a few jigs and templates but make them use them and toss them in most cases , otherwise I would need a separate building .
regards and good luck dusty
Draw the cut line on the workpiece. Set the workpiece so that the top of the leg is touching the taper jig and the jig is against the saw fence. Adjust the bottom of the leg to make the cut line parallel to the fence. Measure the gap between the bottom of the leg and the jig. This will be the size of the spacer you need. Also the measurement from the fence to the cut line will be equal to the fence setting to make the cut. You can mount your taper jig to piece of plywood or mdf to allow you to place a spacer under the leg if needed to support it.
I built a tappering jig a long time ago that I've used for many of these jobs. It consists of two straight 1X4s joined at one end by a good tight fitting hinge; the angle between them is adjusted and fixed by a locking slide at the other end (like a drop leaf slide with a locking screw); there is a small stop block at the opening end. If you're carefull, as you alwasy ought to be, you can use one of the first cutoffs to shim the piece for both the cut on the opposite side -- thereby avoiding the problem of resetting the jig angle -- and to shim the cut side that rides on the saw, so no change in angle there. I use double sided carpet tape to hold the shims in place on the workpiece.
Verne
If a tree falls in the forest, and no one is there to cut it up and make something with it . . . what a waste!
Build something like this. Mine rides in the miter slot. Pencil a foot on the bottom and a line around the top end of the taper on one leg. Adjust the fence to the cut lines. Cut 4 leg sides. Reset the fence. repeat.
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Edited 2/2/2009 9:01 am ET by knuts
How about a different approach. By the time you get half way finished building a tapering jig, I'll be finished with the tapering by simply doing it by hand.
Draw or scribe lines where the tapers are, and cut them on the bandsaw freehand. Then, smooth to the line with a hand plane. It takes me about ten minutes per leg.
If you have 100 to do, build the jig. If you have 4, then try it by hand.
Jeff
I use the band saw, after tapering 2 of the legs, I tape the waste back on, and cut the other 2.
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