Replies

1. 
   SawdustSteve | Jul 30, 2004 09:41pm | #1

   There are several right answers but I would prefer to build a box-like jig to slide the board into and use my hand-held router with a collar to make the tennon.

   SawdustSteve

2. 
   chatobob | Jul 30, 2004 09:43pm | #2

   First, I would screw an extension to the miter gauge to give you more stability.  Use a straight board that you can saw through, it should extend both left and right, and higher than the blade height.  Then I would put a dado blade in the TS, about a half incher would be good.  Your first cut will the the shoulder of the tenion, and the rest are not that critical.  When you are ready to cut, clamp the work piece to the miter extension, two clamps would be better than two, making sure the clamps do not contact the blade.  Make one pass over the blade.  You should have a true tenion.

   -Bob

3. 
   YesMaam27577 | Jul 30, 2004 09:45pm | #3

   You can use more than one kind of clamped guide to help yo with that handsaw.

   Using C-clamps, you can clamp a pair of boards to your handsaw. These need to be parallel to the cutting-teeth edge, and back from that edge by the depth of cut that you want.

   Then when you're cutting, these "rails" will stop the saw from cutting too deep. Don't forget to try this out on scrap first, and to measure the results carefully. Make any needed adjustments while still playing with scraps.

   Another method would be to use a router to cut the tennons. But I like the handsaw method idea better. A router will want to "fall into" the area that you've cut away.

   Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.

4. 
   jackplane | Jul 30, 2004 09:55pm | #4

   Also, if your tenon is a degree or two off-square, it shouldn't matter because the shoulder not the tenon dictates squareness.

5. 
   CajunDan | Jul 30, 2004 10:56pm | #5

   Sebastion,

   A few months ago, I built the FWW computer desk. It has a long rail connecting the stretcher to the cabinet, so I was faced with your same problem.

   I ended up cutting the tenon with a hand saw and trimming it to width with a #93 shoulder plane. (Don't expect a perfect fit with a saw alone.) It was one of the best fitting tenons I have ever made.

   I'd say, make a couple of practice tenons until you have confidence, then go ahead.

   Regards,

   Dan

6. 
   Alan | Jul 31, 2004 01:15am | #6

   Sebstian,

   Use your handsaw--unless you're so married to your power tools that you'll spend hours building jigs to make them work.

   Here's an easy way to do it with your hand saw that will take you less time than it will take me to type this in.  Doing it this way you will need to concentrate on only one aspect of the saw cut at any one time.

   Use a knife to mark the shoulders of the tenon.  Score the wood perpendicular as deeply as you easily can.  Then take that same knife, or anything reasonably sharp, and using your first cut as one side, angle the knife and cut a shallow "V" on the waste side of the scored line.  You have just perfectly defined the shoulder of the tenon.

   Mark the bottom of the shoulder with a knife and then run a pencil along the knife cut so it will be easier to see.  Do this on both sides.

   Put your saw into the little "V" you made.  You need worry only about keeping the saw vertical.  The "V" will perfectly guide the saw.  Keep the saw parallel to the board for a few strokes.  When you've sawed down a bit, tilt the cut by pushing the saw handle down a little.  With the saw at this angle, keep sawing down to the line.  As you get close to the line you can stop every stroke, or every half-stroke, so you don't saw too far.

   Turn the board around and do the same on the other side.  Hold the saw at an angle and saw down to the line.

   Then hold the saw parallel again, and saw out the middle part (that was left because you tilted the saw).  Be careful; but again, you need worry about only one thing, keeping the saw parallel.  You can stop and check as often as you want; look at both sides to make sure you're sawing parallel.  Stop at the line.

   You have just perfectly sawn the shoulders of your tenon.

   You can use the same method to saw the cheeks.  Get the initial kerf on the proper line, then saw at an angle down to the shoulder cut, do the same on the other side, then saw out the middle part.

   Having to concentrate on only one thing at a time makes it very easy and ensures perfect results--unless you're me.

   Alan

7. 
   Walnutburl | Jul 31, 2004 03:34am | #7

   Sebstian, Have you though of making loose/floating tenons? It would be just as strong to cut out a mortise. Maybe some what safer also.

8. 
   Michmesquite | Jul 31, 2004 09:21pm | #8

   The old fashioned way, by hand. I'm guessing it might take you 15 minutes per tenon. Try the first one on a piece of scrap of the same material and then the rest will be perfect.

   If you are close to San Jose I'll lend you my L-N backsaws for the day.

   _________________________________

   Michael in San Jose

   "In all affairs it's a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted." Bertrand Russell 

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/31/2004 2:24 pm ET by MICHAELP

9. 
   pritcharded | Aug 01, 2004 10:11am | #9

   Sebastian

   If cutting tenons right to the line with a tenon saw first time is a bit too daunting for you, this is an alternative which gave me reasonable results:

   • mark out each tenon carefully with a marking knife and mortice gauge
   • with a handsaw make a series of cross-cuts finishing just shy of the tenon face (and also the shoulder)
   • remove most of the waste with a sharp chisel, but leave sufficient untouched to support the base of a router
   • clamp a right angle guide across the piece and use the router to cut the shoulder to the exact line and depth
   • use the router to then trim the chiselled tenon faces to the exact line
   • take off the remaining waste with a chisel and you're done

   Good luck,

   Ted

10. 
    BArnold | Aug 01, 2004 11:27am | #10

    I agree with Walnut burl -- mortise and loose tenons are the way to go.  I used this method on a headboard I recently built.  All it takes is an edge guide for your router and a steady eye to hit your start and stop marks on the ends of your rails to produce the mortises.  Do them in multiple passes, of course.  Then, cut some flat stock from the same material to the dimension of your mortise; round the corners with a router or file.

    Bill Arnold

    Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.