Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Dec 14, 2003 09:03am | #1

   How exactly are you cutting those tenons? Always let your waste piece fall on the opposite side of the blade from the fence, don't let a piece get trapped between the fence and the blade.

2. 
   Steinmetz | Dec 14, 2003 09:23am | #2

   15broad, Use a mortise-tenoning attachment (Jig). Stay away from the fence.  If you don't have the jig and you use the miter guage, then use a short length of wood attached to the rip fence well before the bladeas a 'Buffer'or 'Fencelet' 

   Position the cheek waste along the added 'Fencelet' at the correct distance in relation to the blade. Bring fencelet over to meet the cheek waste.Tighten fence and cut all the cheeks you want in a safe manner.  Stein.

   
   

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   Edited 12/14/2003 1:29:15 AM ET by steinmetz

1. 
   15Broad | Dec 14, 2003 02:34pm | #3

     Thank you for the responses, but I see I was unclear.  I've made a tenonning jig from an 8x12 inch piece of 1/2" ply.  With the ply on it's edge I've screwed (at the top!) two 3/4x1 3/4 pieces of pine on about 4 1/2" center.  This apparatus is used for cutting the cheeks themselves.  A little at a time, of course.  My problem starts when running the tenonned member over the blade to remove the waste.  I'm using the miter gauge with the fence on the long side of the workpiece, meaning that the rip fence is nowhere near the waste stock.  When the cheek waste is cut through, or when any small waste comes off for that matter, the saw will throw it back.  I'm sure the blade is parallel with the fence, square, etc.  This happens, not all the time, but often enough to be a nuisance, it is also a safety concern as my son is always with me in there and I don't want him hurt.  He follows safety rules to the letter, so should I.  Any advice will help.

1. 
   Ricky_Yu | Dec 14, 2003 06:00pm | #4

   I gather that when you go make the shoulder cut, the waste that is freed from underneath the tenon is sometimes skewed into the blade as the tenon continues forward, thus shooting the waste back. Itshould not be shooting back at a very high velocity like it would be in a kickback situation, but if you think it is enough for concern, then by all means take precautions.

   Besides not standing behind the unsupported portion of any work as it is being cut (this goes for the operator as well as anyone else in the shop), a subfence screwed to your miter gauge will solve your problem. I think this is what you called a "raised bridge" in your original posting. Make sure the board you're using is straight and higher than the blade. Besides carrying your waste safely through, the subfence reduces tearout by providing zero-clearence support. Also, because tenoned members are usually long, the subfence will have an added benefit of better supporting your stock as you make your shoulder cut.

2. 
   VeniciaL | Dec 14, 2003 08:57pm | #5

   15Broad,

   There are several ways to prevent this problem. Although, as already mentioned, that loose piece never kicks back as happens when ripping kickback occurs. Is it being ejected with much velocity for you?

   You could cut the shoulders first, then the loose piece drops harmlessly away when you cut each cheek as there is nothing trapping it against the blade.

   You could cut 1/16" fat of the line on a bandsaw all around and just clean up on the table saw.

   You could tape around the cheeks so the loose piece stays with the work as it passes through the blade. You might want to also tape the work at the other end so it's parallel to the table, but that's really not necessary for the insignificant amount that occurs.

   You could build the device you described, which is a good idea. But even better is to build a cross-cut sled which is really your device taken to its ultimate design. A sled is far better for cross cutting than a miter fence. It's far more useful than the miter for your task and many other jobs, is safer, more elegant in its complete control of the workpiece for any operation. And it is much more accurate when correctly made (very easy to do). Even well-made miter fences are inherently inaccurate and are a real frustration as they result in cumulative errors when a job is glued up. There are lots of designs available for sleds. Make one. You'll love it and wonder how you got along without it.

   VL

1. 
   15Broad | Dec 14, 2003 10:01pm | #6

     Thanks all .  Guess I never thought of it as a mini sled.  Good to know I'm thinking along the right lines.  Many more questions to ask yet, I fear.