Hi
I am needing to cut some thin strips for making hard wood edge banding. I have access to an SCM MiniMax sliding panel saw (UK version so not the wide arbor that will take a dado blade) which has a gap of probably 10-15mm (~0.5”) to the LHS of the blade. I’ve tried the technique of using a stop block to the LHS and before the blade as a means of repeatedly setting the rip fence, however my thin strips drop into the saw inner.
It appears difficult to make a zero clearance insert given that there isn’t much space between the edge of the cast iron table and the slider, so any insert doesn’t have much width and is hanging out in space.
I’m therefore wondering what technique to try next and have 2 thoughts:
1) take a piece of mdf or ply and clamp to the table either rising the blade through or pushing the piece part way into the blade to create a zero clearance surface and continue with the stop block technique cutting my strip to the L of the blade, or use a sacrificial push stick and cut to the R of the blade
2) use the bandsaw
Appreciate thoughts, suggestions & guidance
Thanks
Replies
From what you describe it sounds like the bandsaw and the jointer are your best friends for this. It will be safer, and you can work both sides of the board between trips to the jointer.
I agree this is a 'right tool for the job' scenario. Although I see things done, there are operations that are better done on certain tools. If the slider does not have a fence on the opposite side of the blade from the carriage I would use something else.
Certainly jointing two edges of a blank, ripping at the bandsaw and re-jointing the blank edges would get things done quickly and consistently. A trip through the planer would clean up the bandsaw marks if you wanted to do that before application.
If you have a good bandsaw, a Resaw King blade will give you glue joint quality.
Tell me about the Resaw King, please. I have one for my Laguna 14/12, but haven't used it yet.
First thought, how thin of a strip?
I cut like you describe in option 1 with a sacrificial push block. I cut thin strips regularly at work on my sawstops. A little different than a minimax but it works well down to around 1/8" assuming the saw has a riving knife. Cutting 1/4" strips is really no big deal at all. Any If your throat plate doesn't have enough support to the right of the blade I think you are right to slide a piece of material down then go about your cutting.
Make the sacrificial push block about 10-12 inches long so that you have good control as the wood passes the blade.
Glue quality joint can be subjective :-) I really like the Resaw King. The cut is very good for a bandsaw. I also get very clean cuts off the tablesaw. If you have ever been surprised by a void (full of glue or not) when planing down the show side of a glued-up panel you know why I joint edges prior to glue up.
Thanks everyone for your responses.
Unfortunately I am in temporary workshop accommodation whilst my new one is being built and for some reason there is a 16" planer but no jointer. It also seems that we can't get the Resaw King blades currently here in the UK.
Someone asked re how thick: ~3mm / 1/8".
There is a rip fence on the saw to the RHS of the blade. There is also a riving knife.
I'm thinking I'll try setting up an ancillary fence on the bandsaw (even without a resaw king blade) and see how that goes. Failing that, I'll try the sacrificial table on the panel saw on both sides of the saw blade.
Thanks again
John, I have had a one inch resaw king blade for my 14SUV bandsaw on 90% of the time since 5 years with one sharpening one year ago. I used it to cut logs, turning blanks up to the saw maximum capacity and to cut thin strips of ipe, a dense South American wood, to laminate wood for exterior boat parts. You will get a nicer glue joint from a table saw but at 4 inches wide, glued with epoxy, it worked out great. It’s also great for making tenons, Making bookmatched veneer and it has such a thin kerf that it is cuts with little effort and little waste. I use the maximum tension on the scale, key is having the blade square to the table and fence.
You were on to it with the extra piece.
It is possible to make a zero clearance insert for these saws, but a pain to do so.
I have had good success with thin MDF and the blade pushed though that. double stick tape will hold it to the table. It's not the reference face for the job so it's not a problem.
I use a fritz and franz jig with a matching piece of MDF to lift the workpiece.
Still, bandsaw is safer.
Thanks Gulfstar.
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