I am new to veneering and need some help. I am trying to create an elliptical table top that has a center section of sapele veneer and a border of etiome. The top is 32″ x 23″ and the border is about 1 1/2″ wide. My question is How do I best cut the elliptical pattern out of the veneer so that they meet perfectly and don’t tear out when being cut?
My local Woodcraft guy sold me an inlay kit for my router (a guide bushing with a collar with a removable collar). I tried this and got a decent amount of tearout on the veneer – too much to be acceptable.
Is there a better way ?
Thanks, in advance.
Drew
Replies
Inlay kit is actually good. should use a spiral bit, and put masking tape all over the veneer where you're cutting.
The older I get, the better I was....
Drew,
You need to find a way to apply pressure at the edge where the cut is. The pressure will aleviate most chipping and hold the veneer steady. You will probably have to devise a jig with clamps or vacuum to hold the veneer while cutting. Taping the edges does help.
Many times finishing the surface with thinned finish will help with trouble woods.
Are you working on the usual sliced veneer which is .025" thick? Cutting it with a router is sure to tear it up. Here's what I'd do...
I'd make a template from hardboard or the like. I'd use it to cut the outer edge of the sapele, and the inner edge of the etiome. I'd use a sharp knife to make the cut -- a drywall knife with a fresh blade does a fine job. I'd angle the knife so that the etiome doesn't overlap the sapele, and I wouldn't worry about a little gap between the two veneers. I'd tape the two veneers together and glue them to the substrate. I'd cut the outside edge of the panel. Then I'd use an edge-guided router to cut a channel on the seam between the two veneers, and insert a contrasting veneer strip in the channel. The contrasting veneer does several good things for you: Imeans you don't have to cut the sapele and etiome very accurately, and it gives a nice accent on the table surface.
Jamie:
I am using "typical" veneer. My first try left tearout on only 2 areas of the veneer, but enough to relegate it to the underside (never to be seen) of the table top. I was going to try covering the cut with tape on the next try to eliminate the tearout. I was avoiding the x-acto method because it's a large surface and it'll take several passes to get through and I'm a bit worried about accuracy on overlapping cuts.
Your idea about the inlay seam is one I've been considering as a fallback if my seams are clean but imperfect.
Thanks to you and the others for your ideas.
Drew.
If you envision working with more veneer in the future I would suggest Paul Schurch's video. You can preview the contents of the video by reading a companion article he wrote: “Decorative Veneering” by Paul Schürch. Fine Woodworking #164 July/August, 2003, pp. 74-79. He explains very clearly and thoroughly how to cut smooth curves directly on the veneer without use of a router.
Those inlay kits are not intended for veneer, AFAIK. I use them with thicker wood. Also, if you replace the upcut spiral bit with a downcut bit, you get alot less tearout.
Can you cut the veneer to shape with a razor knife? If it's already glued down, cut the outline and use a knife or chisel to remove the material where you want to use a different wood.
Veneer kits are, as was said before, made for thicker veneers. If you have more problems with thin veneers being brittle, there are softeners available, or you can make your own with glycerine and water. I have heard of adding soft soap, but I think I would play it safe and just use the two part solution. Glycerine is the same ingredient in hand cream that keeps moisture from leaving your skin. It's available at pharmacies and Rockler, maybe Woodcraft, too.
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