Replies

1. 
   wdt | Dec 29, 2009 11:25pm | #1

   I just bought David Marks'
   I just bought David Marks' DVD that shows you how to do that. Tried it out yesterday and it worked perfectly.

   http://www.djmarks.com/bandsawnveneersdvd.asp

   Dale

2. 
   HowardPeson | Mar 02, 2010 08:09am | #2

   I have tried sawing "thick"

   I have tried sawing "thick" 1/8" or so veneers.  I can do no wrong when the blade is new and sharp.  After I have sawn around 15 or 20 feet of 6" thick walnut the blade begins to get dull and nothing works.  I have tried resharpening with a rotery grinder but the set is a little off.  It cuts better but not as accurately.  Are there better ways to sharpen the blade or am I stuck with buying a new blade for every 20' of material?  Thanks for any response.

1. 
   JiminFla | Mar 02, 2010 05:14pm | #3

   Howard,

   The blade should last longer than that.  What brand of blade are you using, how wide is it, and how many teeth per inch?

    

   Jim

1. 
   HowardPeson | Apr 10, 2010 09:51am | #5

   Blade life

   Thanks for you response.  I have been using the wood slicer blades.  I have used both 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch blades with 3 teeth per inch.  I did notice some black not walnut colored saw dust.  I had been pushing the wood through gently to prevent buckling of the blade.  Maybe too slow?

1. 
   Eireannach | Oct 07, 2010 02:20pm | #8

   black sawdust

   I know this original post was a long time ago, but  I just read it.  In walnut if there is a black discoloration in the wood, it means that there is metal in it nearby.  It may be that this is dulling your blades.  I would imagine if you hit metal you would know it, but maybe not.  Or it could just be burned sawdust. :) Just a thought.

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Mar 22, 2010 02:26am | #4

   Blade Life

   Howard,

   Yes, your blades should be lasting significantly longer than that, provided your material is clean.  Possibly your feed rate is too slow an there is too much heat building up?  Are there any signs of scorching on the wood, black sawdust, or smoke?  Walnut is not usually that hard on the blade.

   If you are doing a lot of resawing, you might consider a carbide tipped resaw blade.  I believe the ResawKing by Laguna and Trimaster (I think I got the name right) by Lennox are two of the ones available.

3. 
   roc | Apr 25, 2010 06:04am | #7

   Retouch blade with diamond hand hone. Just a stroke or two

    The finest grit you can find.  One of these in extra fine works.

   http://www.amazon.com/DMT-D2K-Dia-Sharp-Diamond-Mini-Hone/dp/B000S5SD9M/ref=sr_1_46?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1272189450&sr=1-46

   Or better yet send the blade back to Laguna for sharpening (have a second blade to use in the mean time).

   The Laguna Resaw King Blade is more precise and lasts longer

   http://www.lagunatools.com/bandsaw.resawking1.aspx

   Best to use The Ceramic Laguna Guide System with this blade

   http://www.lagunatools.com/bandsaw.guides.aspx

   This blade stays sharp longer because there are more teeth actually cutting because the blade is so precisely ground, like a table saw blade.  Most bandsaw blades only a few teeth seem to cut, the ones sticking out the farthest.  Once those are dull they start to guide the blade off coarse rather than cut a path through the wood.

3. 
   HowardPeson | Apr 19, 2010 09:53pm | #6

   Cutting veneers using bandsaw

   Thanks for your help.  I ordered a Lenox carbide blade and see if that helps.  I also discovered that the bottom guide was warn and not parallel to the opposite side.  I switched that around.  They are now parallel.  Well see what happens once the new blase arives.

   Howard