Replies

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Apr 29, 2008 09:26pm | #1

   RAS or a crosscut sled on a TS works.

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

2. 
   Scott_y | Apr 29, 2008 10:29pm | #2

   Cut it in half, then use your miter gauge to trim the pieces (that is if you don't have a crosscut sled or a radial arm saw). It will probably be hard to get an extremely accurate cut with just the mitre gauge though. So, your idea of a straight edge and router might help too. Measure thrice, cut once. Let us know how it comes out.

3. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Apr 29, 2008 10:33pm | #3

   If your mitre gauge is a bit wimpy/stock they usually come with predrilled holes for affixing a straight edge to give you a bit better purchase holding the stock.  Another option for ya.

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

4. 
   K1500 | Apr 29, 2008 10:37pm | #4

   The router trick works like a charm (but is a bit slow).

5. 
   joinerswork | Apr 30, 2008 01:21am | #5

   lromero,

   This is going to sound more involved a process than it is.

   1- square a line across the end of the (1" overlength) wide board, 1/4" or so from its end.

   2-tack a scrap strip with a straight edge along the squared line.  (Do this on the underside of the board, or in an area where the nail holes will not show  on the finished piece.)

   3- clamp a 2-3" wide straight piece of stock to the tablesaw fence, on edge, at a height above the saw table that allows the piece to be cut, but not the strip tacked to it, to pass under it.

   4- set the saw's fence so that the outside edge of the auxillary fence is just flush with the blade.  With the saw running, carefully raise the blade so that it is buried halfway thru the aux. fence, with its outside edge flush with the aux. fence's edge.  then lower it a hair.

   5- if you run the strip (tacked to the piece to be cut) along the aux. fence, the piece will be cut flush with its edge, along the line you squared.

   6- shut down the saw, remove the offcut from under the aux. fence, then repeat for the other end.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/29/2008 6:22 pm ET by joinerswork

6. 
   TaunTonMacoute | Apr 30, 2008 02:30am | #6

   That board could have been cut dead square with a Stanley toolbox saw (about $15) in about half the time it took you to type your original post.

   You don't have to fall off the Galoot deep-end, but you do need some handtool skills for times just like this.

7. 
   JohnWW | Apr 30, 2008 04:14pm | #7

   Tack a strip of wood that fits in you saw's miter gauge slot to the back of the board at the appropriate distance from the edge you want to cut off, essentially turning the board into a self contained sled. If screws or small nails into the board face will cause problems, you can devise some way to clamp the strip on.

   John White

1. 
   BruceS | Apr 30, 2008 05:45pm | #8

   That process can also be accomplished with the WW'rs favorite "condiment"  Double sided tape.Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

8. 
   knuts | Apr 30, 2008 10:55pm | #9

   If you turn your miter gage backwards, do you have enough support on the table?

9. 
   BrianDerr | May 01, 2008 08:41am | #10

   Learn how to build a large, accurate crosscut sled for your TS. It's worth it!

   Brian

10. 
    Moksha | May 01, 2008 11:50pm | #11

    Over the years I have tried a lot of different approaches to cutting wide pieces and dadoes for things like shelves in wide bookcases.
    The router was a staple for the dadoes... until I started using
    a four foot wide sled on the table saw. This allowed tight control
    of the cut and the width of the dado... Now I think this is the
    best solution.

    
1. 
   JohnWW | May 02, 2008 01:28am | #12

   It would look like the miter bars on the sled would run into the outfeed table when the sled was moved forward for a cut. What am I missing?John White

1. 
   Moksha | May 02, 2008 01:40am | #13

   John,The miter bars are a bit more than a foot long, located to the operator side of the sled, and allow for the sled to handle a 17" wide board for cutting. The table saw is ####Sawstop and the table is a bit longer than most saws... so I didn't have to cut miters into the extension table to get good results.
   There are four table saw sleds in my workshop for various special cuts,
   angles, box joints, and normal cutoffs. Sleds make the table saw cuts much easier to manage.
   Note, when I use the wide table saw sled... the riving knife is removed from the saw... that allows for the sled to be moved further toward the operator without hitting the opposite side of the saw sled. Moksha

1. 
   JohnWW | May 02, 2008 01:57am | #14

   Thanks.John W.

2. 
   KiddervilleAcres | May 02, 2008 07:42pm | #15

   Moksha,

   I assume that the pic was/is for illustration only and that you don't leave the workpiece butted against the fence whilst making the cut.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   Moksha | May 02, 2008 10:23pm | #16

   When actually using the sled the fence is hung up like this

   
1. 
   Henley | May 03, 2008 03:17pm | #17

   Festo Rail saw works rather well too.