cyclone or single stage collector
sidecutter
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
Hello I have been considering a dust collection system for my shop. Just a small shop 24 x 20. but I have a 42″lathe, 10″ table saw, radial arm saw, 14″ band saw, general hollow chisel mortiser, 6″ jointer, 15″ planer, 16″ drill press, and a work bench. I use a ras and a handheld belt sander biscuit joiner and a router table. I am very concerned about breathing in fine dust. I have read the reports on the small dust collectors in the tool guide. but they do not have any guide when it comes to cyclone collectors. I have set myself a budget of $2000.00 canadian. which way should I go?
Replies
I hope you get more response as I am very unprofessional when it come to this, but my understanding is that the cyclones clean much better than the average single stage. I have a small single stage which I think will be very temporary until I get the more permanent cyclone. I am having trouble organizing the tools in the shop and figuring just how I would run the piping etc. I have a little larger shop so probably won't have to move the tools around so much. So hopefully you question will generate enough response to help us both.
I had a portable dust collector and built a cyclone to use the same motor. It's much more efficient and easier to empty. I'm not recommending that you build one, though; just offering that as a comparison of the two styles.
My sister has a nice shop down in North Carolina. She bought the Oneida Systems "Dust Gorilla" and loves it. You can get a 2hp model for $795 US. Even the most expensive duct work is unlikely to run much more than another $500 US. Even with the Canadian import duties, I think you'd be done under budget.
No matter what, AVOID the dust collectors with the "Can" type tops. They trap the dust in the top where you can't see it building up till too late. The other shop in my building has a Grizzly that they raised a little higher & keep leaf bag sized set-up underneath.
Be sure to ground the system with one of the copper wire kits.
Load of useless horse puckey, what is a "can type top"?
Grounding wires on most systems have proved worse than useless.
What is the sense of a post like this? There is no penalty for not posting.
Not trying to single you out, but if you can't express yourself or don't know what the heck you are talking about and can't be bothered to research it keep away from the post icon.------------------------------------
It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
You don't know what a "Can" type top is? The ones that'r touted as being so good? They're crap.
If you don't actually bother with grounding the systems you can enjoy the sparks.
I try to keep the posts short so that people with ADD can read them also.
Don't quit your office job. . .
nite.
I did not know you were afflicted with ADD. Perhaps you could double up on your meds and give us a few more details on the "can type top" collectors you hold such a low opinion of.
Perhaps the sparks you are seeing are the result of a chemical imbalance, you really should check with your doctor or psychiatrist.
If you are seeing me in the office this is more indicative of a severe mental problem and again I urge you to see your medical provider promptly.------------------------------------
It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
I'm gonna go & smoke my meds. . It's kwite effisient you know.
Can types suck, actually they DON'T. I guess you've got one of those pleated pieces of c**p. Enjoy it pallie.
Maybe you didn't turn it on before you tried it. Try plugging it in and moving the on-off switch to the on position. If you don't know what the switch looks like I can arrange for a crayon picture you might understand.
Perhaps you just have a hard on for anything that does'nt suck as much as you.
What brought you to the conclusion they don't work? What brands,models did you try? Who made the filters? How long was the suction run? 110? 220? What type of application? Sander? Planer? Size of duct? Horsepower? Let us in on your vast knowledge before your meds wear off.
I suspect all you are capable of is blanket statements with no reasoning or facts to back them up. Got something useful to add or are you just cra^^ping on your keyboard to see what letters it makes on the screen?
I have owned a 2hp Jet in the past with the canister filter and it kept up with every tool in the shop, including a 15" planer and a 26" double drum sander. I maintain 3 others in a nearby cabinet shop which also do everything required of them including one on a 36" Powermatic belt sander.
It has been my experience with these and a couple of other dust collectors with cannister filters that they have better airflow due to increased filtering area and put far less particulates in the air.
The 3 hp. cyclone I currently own also has cannister filters on the outlet. Lots of suction, no dust, no problem.------------------------------------
It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
Hey, what's your problem? Do you read this forum for fun? Or to try & show off? I prefer to keep my messages short & funny. I AM NOT here to show off my knowledge. I'm here for relaxed conversation about something I enjoy so much that I've been doing it for over 35 years. I'm not cabinetmaker, & never ever will be, though apparently, you are, there's a lot of your unhappy breed around. most seem to be pissed off & unhappy like you.
I'm not about putting people down you putz. If you want to start with me, come to Bayshore NY, E-mail me, we'll meet. See how wonderful a person you are then.
Have a nice nite jerk.
Ahh yes, threats of violence, the first resort of the mental midgets.
Some one asks for advice and your idea of "fun" is to condemn a whole class of machine as "crap" without stating any reason or experience?
I am still interested to hear what your experience was that soured you on cannister filters and on what research or experience you based your recommendation for grounding wires. Not asking you to "show off" just explain why you would give such advice.
I am neither a cabinetmaker or pissed off or unhappy. I also do not fit the definition of jerk to wit.Slang. a contemptibly naive, fatuous, foolish, or inconsequential person.
I will cop to occasionally being rude, intolerant and impatient.
Glad you are having fun. I know I am.
As far as me showing off, that would be a very foolish thing to try and pull off, there are people on this forum far more knowledgeable than I on nearly any aspect of woodworking you can think of. Usually more tolerant and polite too.
I do try to help those who I can with whatever knowledge and experience I can.
I did enjoy the "relaxing", "fun"conversation I had with you and am glad you were provoked.
If your idea of "fun and relaxing" conversation is to spew BS, then I am sure we will have more of these "fun, relaxing" conversations.------------------------------------
It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
DG, Shilki.... whatsup? This kind of venom is generally reserved for Festool and SawStop threads. Why the dust up over dust collection? How about a little peace on earth, good will towards men...? It's nearly Kwanza...Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
Well, I guess sysop has removed "personal attacks" from the list of sins here at Knots. LOL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Probably not, I'm half expecting a nasty gram in the inbox.
How did those screws work out?------------------------------------
It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
"How did those screws work out?" I never received them. Sent you a couple of emails asking about them, no response, so figured you'd decided not to send them.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Well crud! We're batting 1000!
No screws and no e-mail!
My ISP had some problems about that time frame. I'll send you my alternate adress.
Do you still need screws?------------------------------------
It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
Yes, I still need them. So, let's see, you're going to send me a new email addy, and I'm going to send you my mailing addy? Is that right?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I'll send you my secondary e-mail address, I still have your mailing add.
I'll pull the screws out of mine and send them to you registered mail, maybe they'll take better care of them if there's a record!
I'll re-tap the holes in mine to use a more common screw. I'll give you a heads up the day they leave my hands. I'll confirm your street add. in my e-mail.------------------------------------
It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
dgreen --
In your first post in this thread, you infer that shilki1's post was a waste of time and space. As your post was simply critical of his, and was not informative, may I suggest that your's added nothing either!
Obviously your anger is on edge today and not all helpful to the original poster's inquiry. Nor is it worth the other reader's time to have to read yours trying to determine if there is anything of value, or just childishly lashing out at someone.
In the words of wisdom -- If you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all. In your words -- There is no penalty for not posting.
Alan - planesaw
Edited 12/9/2007 9:17 pm ET by Planesaw
Alan:
Not angry at all, if you notice I posted immediately with what I hoped would be useful information for the OP.
I disagree with the concept of just ignoring imbeciles. Assuming they are capable of comprehension how are they to know if not alerted? His post was useless.
You may suggest my post added nothing but I would respectfully disagree, it pointed out to him the useless drivel he posted and his responses informed me if no one else that he has no knowledge about canister type dust collectors to share.
Sometimes it is as valuable to know what someone does not know as it is to know what they are competent at.
I think that too often in todays PC world the BS artists get a pass. I may not be PC or polite but I call a spade a spade.
Now wanna talk about dust collection? :)
Wishing you well....------------------------------------
It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
dgreen,
If you want to help someone improve, then teach them. Insulting them period, much less in a childish manner doesn't accomplish that at all. For example, your following words are fully intended to insult -- they have nothing to do with improving anyone's knowledge.
On the other hand, the following addresses the issue with some relevant questions and personal experience.
The comment has been made here on the Knots that our hosts tolerate way too many personal insults and how Wood Central and others would not allow such at all.
You apparently have significant experience and probably have something to offer. That is what we are here for. Your first response to shilki1 resulted in four more posts of simply personal attacks. Man, just read the other posts in this thread. You don't see any personal attacks in any of them!
My request is for you to simply drop the attitude and personal attacks. Being mature and polite has nothing to do with being PC. Not wanting to be ruled by the PC crowd is not any excuse to simply insult and berate anyone.
Alan - planesaw
------------------------------------
Alan, with all due respect, I wish you would realize that a white-haired guy that is this immature is not going to change. Just click on his alias and click "Ignore Posts". You have repeated messages that otherwise would have been filtered for me that I really did not want to see. ;)
I likewise encourage people to filter my posts if they don't like them. I'd rather they do that than alter the hypertension statistics.
Andy
From a bit of personal experience if you use HVAC snap together duct and the supporting elbows, connectors and joints seal every seam with aluminum foil duct tape. Including the longitudinal pipe seams.
After you apply the tape burnish it with a small plastic auto body filler applicator (or equivalent).
That will help to keep any leaks down to a bear minimum.
Carya,
You may be right. I searched his previous posts across a number of threads and see that there is a substantial history of immaturity on full display. It is easy to be big and bold when sitting at a keyboard.
Stay warm,
Alan - planesaw
Alan:"In your first post in this thread, you infer that shilki1's post was a waste of time and space."I do hope you don't mind me drawing your intention to this but your use of "infer" is incorrect. You should have used imply. E.g.:In your first post in this thread, you implied that shilki1's post was a waste of time and space.Not to be the grammar police, or pedantic, but the easy way to remember is that imply is a "pitcher" and infer is a "catcher".Regards,Hastings
Hastings,
Thanks for the distinction between infer and imply. Wasn't aware of the distinction. Your illustration will be a help in remembering.
Alan - planesaw
Wow are you angry. Lighten up, please. These are all opinions. Some more valued than others. let us judge for ourselves without disparaging the people that contribute in their own manner.Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
Kiss my arse, He made no useful opinion evident, he gave worse than useless advice. It's now an old thread, contribute something useful or suffer the slings and arrows.
If you have something usefull to contribute on the subject I'm all ears. It's an area of particular interest to me.
If you'r sounding off to be PC, lots of others have beat you to it.------------------------------------
It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
I was going to give you a hard time about wasting one of your five posts berating me, then I read your last post. I think we could get along. Ther was some tought out advice in that post.
I will reserve judgement and ask that you do the same.
I thought your last post was quite good.------------------------------------
It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
With the budget you have set you should be able to acheive very good dust collection. There are a number of good cyclones on the market that will deal with your larger tools, I personally have had good results with Penn States 3 hp cyclone, you might look up Sarge's posts for a good review. for the smaller tools look at Festools vac or my personal favorite the Fein Turbo II or III. If you go with a non cyclone system the ones with a canister type filter on the top and a plastic bag on the bottom could be a very cost effective healthy alternative. Look for the micron rating, the smaller the better. You might check out Bill Pentz's web site. He is full of crap about brands to buy but there is a lot of good general info on his site.
If you have any questions contact me through my profile. I won't recommend any brand but I will steer you to places that will help you make up your own mind.
------------------------------------
It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
I left my single stage DC to history: "puff of dust" at start-up; massive fine dust release when emptying the plastic bag.
I now have a 2 HP Oneida Dust Gorilla AND a clean shop. There is enough extra suction capacity to keep the RAS area clean. (I do not try to collect material from the lathe - too far away from DC.
I handle ALL dust generating small tools with a mid-sized Festool shop vac. (they call it something else) The tool is plugged into the vac for auto stop-stop. I find adjustable suction is a must - too high suction when sanding kind of "glues" the sander to the wood surface, yet you want high suction capacity to capture router discharge. You should be able to buy both with your budget.
Frosty
"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
Thanx for your reply.
I have a dealer about 40 km away from where i live who deals with onieda. They have a 3hp collector for $1700.00. The piping and electrical would be extra. If I do the piping myself what type of pipe should I use. I have read that some use standard hvac pipe, others use spiral. Huge difference in price. Is a 2hp good enough? I live on the south shore of Georgian Bay. Not a lot of woodworkers around. My shop is closed up pretty tight in winter to save heat. I heat electrically. The drum they supply looks very small. I think I would be emptying it every 20 min when using the planer. what happens when the drum fills and I don't notice while planing a lot of lumber? My wife now tells me I have to order before christmas or no more woodworking.
Onieda advertises that they will engineer a system for you. I'm not sure whether there are any strings attached but it wouldn't hurt to give them a call. I would think that they would tell you what size to get for your operation and other pertinent info. I'm in just about the same boat except my wife hasn't yet told me I can't work without one after Christmas. I'm still building on the shop. Since I'm hearing impaired, I find it very frustrating to get on the phone. I'm not pushing Onieda particularly, but it would be good to get a professional plan. Maybe other companies have that service.
I started out with a 2 bag Grizzly (2HP) system about 10 years ago and then built a drop box system which separated out the larger chips from the dust. That actually worked fairly well, but when I moved to a larger shop I got the Grizzly 2HP cylcone (about $700 US). It is a massive top-heavy monster and is quite noisy but works well. It comes in a million pieces and has to be assembled and it is a 2 or 3 person job to stand it up from the lying down position when assembled on the shop floor. The 3HP is actualy only a little more expensive and since I will never upgrade until I die (given the hassle it would be to try to sell this and move it), I should have probably gotten the 3HP. I'm thinking of enclosing the unit in a sort of closet built around it to reduce the noise. Penn state sells a muffler but I don't think it will fit the Grizzly.
I use Home Depot variety HVAC steel ductwork, which is fairly cheap, but bought the Penn State 'wye"connectors, 4 inch aluminum blast gates and some other specialty fittings. HD doesn't sell "wye" branches that allow a 4 inch duct to come off a 6 inch main line. I sealed the system with an HVAC ductwork putty that HD sells, that you squirt out of one of those caulking guns. With duct tape over the putty the system is really air tight.
Good luck.
Jay
Well, I may look into that Grizzly and others, but I still would like some better planning that I can give. It seems Grizzly has a reputation for supplying a good product at a good price.
Hi JayS
Did you build a drop box for your cyclone? If so what size? I think I'm going to buy the 3hp dust gorilla but I really think I need something larger than the bin it comes with. Right now my 15" planer spits out piles of shavings when ever I plane. Usually I am planing about 20--30 bd ft. at a time. Looks like that would fill a small drum very fast. How often do you empty you drum? Every thing seems ok except the volume of shavings and what happens if you miss emptying the drum? thanx
The drop box was for the earlier model I had without a cyclone. The drop box performs the same function as the cyclone itself whcih is to separate fine dust whcih remains suspended in the flowing air stream and end up in the filter, and the heavier chips, which drop out into the bin. When the drum of the cyclone collector fills, the chips jsut pile up and become visible in the flexible plastic tube leading down to the bin. THis is about 9 inches wide and is transparent so I can see it happening. Of course, by then iit is a mess to empty. I wiish the bin had a transparetn window to allow one to see when it is filling. YOu should be able to plane 30 feet of lumber without quit filling the bin since it gets compacted to a degree.
Jay
"I wiish the bin had a transparetn window to allow one to see when it is filling."
Couldn't a slot be cut into the side of the drum and a clear plastic window applied?
Well, the efficiency of any system is in part dependent upon how air tight it is. Any leaks wil reduce the effective vacuum. I suppose if you cut the drum and could seal arounfd the window well, it would be OK, but as caulk/sealant dries out and cracks, leaks may be inevitable. It's not worth messing with. Just open the lid periodically to check how soon it will need to be emptied. By the way, the HVAC ducts, being metallic and hence, conductive, do not need additional copper wire grounding, and are lighter weight, easier to cut etc... I got a crimping tool at Home Depot for about $20. and could cut the tubing with aviation snips, crimp and end and fit things together nicely.
Jay
If you decide to try the window I know a couple of people who had success using plexiglass sealed to the opening with the polyurethane sealant that is used to glue windshields in. Sticks to damn near anything and won't let go. Your local auto glass shop will probably sell you a tube. Don't get it on your hands, it will have to wear off!------------------------------------
It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
To protect what hearing you have left, you ought to check on the db output of the system you are looking at. 80 to 89 is typical for the single stage units listed on this site. That is really a problem for long term hearing care. I haven't done it yet, but consider a small room or enclosure with sound deadening to keep the din lower on the vacuum system. Obviously ear plugs help too. Every little bit helps keep the ears working.
If you look at the specs, CFM is a big value to review, as is the Micron filtration level. It sounds like your planer kicks up a good deal of material. That ought to set the bar as to what level of system you need. Somewhere at 1 to 5 micron seems the popular choice for final filter.
I'd tend to go with the local vendor. between bags, fittings and gates you will spend a lot of time working with someone. You might as well build a relationship if the price is fair.
Good luck. Sounds like a great shop.Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
Thanks for the bagful of info. Hadn't realized that 80 to 90db were harmful. Until recently I've been driving the tractor without ear protection. Just seems so innocent and makes just a fraction of the sound that the old ones we used to drive. It doesn't seem loud at all. I think it is below 100 and the audiologist said I should wear protection. Are you saying to wear both ear plugs and muffs? I ruined my ears on a chain saw that could be described as being next to a series of bombs going off. I was considering putting the dust collector in the basement but it has a concrete floor with imbedded hot water so the options of venting is limited. I just don't know of any local vendor unless you consider a Woodcraft that is about one and half hours away. I haven't found exactly where it is yet - just know it exists.
If nothing else use the 30 db roll up and stick in the ear plugs. Those help quite a bit and when it is white noise running all the time it surely will protect the hearing.
An hour and a half is a long distance relationship. I guess buy the vacuum wherever you can but at least find the piping local. you must have a sheet metal shop local. the bits and pieces are what drives you nuts in a project.
Have a fun and joyous ChristmasJack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
I would check with Oneida directly to see how they price the unit. You also may be able to do just fine with a 2 HP unit. As far as the drum goes. I'm sure you could get a larger drum if you have enough head room to raise the unit. They also offer a drum indicator that signals when the drum is nearing full.As far as ducting is concerned I've had no problem with 4" PVC pipe from the hardware store. I have grounded it with copper wire but I don't even think that is necessary. As I mentioned before, I think a shop vac with variable suction and a tool control plug-in is a great asset. I use a Festool and am well satisfied.Good LuckFrosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
I have the 2HP Oneida and it works good. I would not recommend non-cyclonic systems at all.
Anyhow, you may find it much cheaper to get the spiral pipes from a good HVAC supplier. They are standard. Usually, the elbows, etc., are much harder to get from the HVAC guys, though.
If you want to save money, I believe busybee (Canadian) has a cyclonic collector.
Learn a bit about dust from Bill Pentz.
http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm
My brother-in-law and I purchased from ClearVue, and other cabinet maker I know nearby took Bill's plans and built his own cyclone.
I have a 2HP portable dust pump as well. The difference is scary.
You will only need one cyclone in your life time.
Buy the best technology you can afford.
Don
Here is the American Woodworking article comparing Cyclones.
2HP should be enough for any of your tools operating one at a time. If two large machines run simultaneously, 3HP would be better.
Most books recommend using metal duct; snap lock HVAC duct should be at least 26ga or better yet 24ga. Thinner stuff (Home Depot and Lowes are 30ga) can be sucked flat if you ever happen to close all of the blast gates at once (closing TS gate before opening up jointer gate, for instance).
Taunton has a good book called "Woodshop Dust Control" with useful info on planning your system.
BruceT
Edited 12/10/2007 3:24 am by brucet9
I started with a 3HP Grizzly single stage DC. Even after upgrading the bags there was a large cloud of dust every time I turned it on. The bags were a real pain to remove/empty. Finally gave it away and installed a 2HP Oneida Dust Gorilla. I've got close to 100 feet of pipe connected to it with about 25 blast gates. Even at the far end of the run, with more bends than would be recommended because of obstructions I had to go around, the system easily handles the output from my 12 inch planer. When I'm switching between the radial arm and the table saw, I leave the blast gates open to both and still find dust pickup to be quite satisfactory.
I started with PVC pipe, ended up removing it and going with HVAC metal duct. Easier to work with, easy to add saddle connections, availability of wide-radius adjustable elbows, blast gates connect easily.
An inexpensive and simple way to get an idea of how full the dust collection drum is, mount it on a bathroom scale (the scale will give a lowered reading when the cyclone is turned on). In my "dream shop" I'd have the cyclone emptying into a 10 yard bin. Whatever you do, the drum and its connections must be absolutely airtight. Any leakage at all from the drum will result in dust/chips being sent to the filter.
Woodhacker
Thank you for your input. Having read your reply I Wonder if a 3hp might be overkill for my little shop. I would likely have my longest run at about 30' with 3 elbows for my 15" planer. Are you using the super gorilla or the standard. It sounds like my needs are similar to your own and the 2hp standard is quite reasonably priced. I think I have every thing figured out except how to connect my 1979 14"rockwell band saw. I has no dust ports at all , and It can stir up quite a cloud when re sawing.
p.s. Thanks to every one for all their contributions. I also appreciate the lessons on the english language. who new?
"I think I have every thing figured out except how to connect my 1979 14"rockwell band saw."Page 182 of "Woodshop Dust Control" (Taunton Books) describes how he made a collector for his bandsaw both under the table and at the bottom wheel cover.Attached are a couple of articles from Oneida and AWW on ducting systems.good luck
BruceT
Call the Oneida Air 800 number and talk with the technical folks.
I am going through the same process and have had good results with their recommendations. They did not try to sell me anything, just gave me the facts and told me about the traps to avoid.
They will send you a kit for the duct layout and recommend the machine that fits your needs.
Grizzly has a very convenient program that will assist you in laying out your shop and designing the duct system. Check out their website.
My single stage that I am upgrading from served me well for 2 years, but it is time to take my system to the next level and keep my shop really clean.
Good luck
I bought an Oneida 2hp with large filter & 35gall drum a couple of years ago via Welbeck (http://www.welbecksawmill.com) in Durham ON. They're dealers for Oneida and so they deal with all the transport and tax crap. I probably paid a total of around $1500 including blastgates, ducting, wall mounting brackets, etc. Worth every cent. Decent people to deal with, and the closest dealer I could find even though I live on Vancouver Island!
Timrowledge
I was down to see the fellows @ welbeck to day. I am preparing them a drawing of my shop and equipment and they will have the folks @ onieda dezine my system for me. He believes a 2hp supper gorilla will work for my size of shop. did you purchase any acc. I believe I will get the remote control. I would like to use the existing wall brackets. I don't think I will get the bag gripper as I can just dump the shavings on a huge compost pile beside our garden. Our garden is about 70' square so a few barrels of composted shavings a year should be ok. I'm glad you had a good experience with the folks at welbeck, I have bought 90% of my tools there over the last 25 years. and yes they are good. Do you also have an air filter in your shop or is the onieda all you need? Thanx for your reply.
Hi!
I found welbeck very easy to deal with despite the miles between us. They even refunded me some money for a couple of ducting parts I returned *before* they got the parts back.At the time I bought the remote wasn't usable here - I forget exactly why, something about the plug standard being different to required standards perhaps? The bag gripper I think came out later as well. It does sound like a good idea though as disconnecting the barrel and carrying out to the end of the garden (mine is a couple of acres but I do seem to be filling it up pretty quick!) with dust floating up to my nose is a pain. Having a bag to just close off and move would be nice.I bought a number of the ducting parts from welbeck, basically the corners and blastgates. It wasn't worth shipping the straight pipe across the whole of Canada!
Take a look at Craigslist, a woodworker in Seattle has a 3 hp Oneida cyclone + ducting and blast gates too $850.00. [email protected]
John
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