Can anyone help me. I just purchased one of these 10″ portable table saw ( benchtop variety). One day I would like to use it to make dados and other grooves. The trouble is I don’t know if I can use a dado blade with my new table saw. Can anyone help? Also, I see 8″ and 6″ dado blades on sale – but don’t know which one would go best with this type of the table. Thanks for your help.
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Replies
Trevor,
It's probably best to check with the manufacturer on this one to see if the machine is designed for that purpose. If it isn't, you could easily damage the saw, or -worse yet- injure yourself.
Jeff
Hey Trevor! These types of saws are meant for on-site trimming not really for cutting datos. Even thow everyone of us here has wanted our equipment to perform better at cutting things, you can't will it upon the machine. I am not sure what other machines you have but spend your money on- I suggest you buy a kick butt router. Buying dato blades for this may not be a need now. Save your money for a high powered router and bit set instead. Construct a nice table and a sturdy fence sytem.
Another suggestion is if you can't afford any new machines mark your pieces out and simply set your blade height, you will need a half-way decent carbide one, and make the outsides cuts. Then hollow out the interior dato with some additional passes and chisel the rest out. A router plane would be great here.
It will save the life of your new portable saw so you won't throw it away. Building a mobile collection base for it from scrap would be cool to! Good building! ..Pike..
Trevor.
Most will tell you to use the stack type. I've got 2 wobble type sears carbide dado's for my saws and they are great. I've owned one for 15 years. Now if you are a production guy that makes cabinets for a living and have runs that are 100's of foot then yes the stack may be more efficient. Better cut, Faster? I can't say.
Diameters .. Like someone said look in the owners manual. Basically the larger the blade the deeper the cut. It really doesn't matter though. You don't dado more than 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch deep in most instances.
Make sure you get the proper throat for your TS though. I've tried to make them out of plywood (for cutting laminate but that is another issue) but the 20 to 30 clams for the correct throat plate takes one less variable out of the equation of building good stuff.
They are neat. One thing to avoid is a shaper blade. That is the most frightening tool I've ever used. It sounds like a gator boat with a thwapping roar adn the prospect of a 50 cent sized piece of metal flying off an 8 inch arbor seems too great to risk it.
Trevor,
I know that it doesn't answer your question, but I'd just like to add my opinion on cutting dados. I have never felt comfortable with the idea of the dado head on a table saw. I am not a veteran woodworker, but got a good run down on dado heads from the guy who has been teaching me.
I cut dados with my router, and have had very good luck with it. The dados are very acurate, and I think even quicker and safer to do. Like I said, I'm still green, but thought I'd share my opinion and experience with you.
Bench top saws may not have the power to cut a decent dado. However, if the throat is wide enough, you can certainly use the wobble type dado if you do not cut too aggressively. I haven't seen a table saw yet that doesn't have room on the spindle for a stacked dado but then again, I have never used the bench top variety.
I had a Delta bench top table saw years ago. I used a 6" stack dado set from Freud and it performed just fine. As long as your arbor is long enough to accept the stacked blades you can dado with it. The 6" sets are marketed for "underpowered saws" like yours. Since the arbor on your saw will have more runout than higher quality saws, you will need to stack up the blades slightly thinner then sneak up to the width you want by checking the actual cut. Your arbor probibly doesn't lock up or down so you'll have to feed slower so you don't push the blade down into the saw. I've made many cabinates on that cheap plastic bench saw.
1st will the arbor take a dado? 2nd does the mfr offer a dado throat plate? If both are yes then you should be OK. I'd use a stack dado over a wobbler especially so in your case. The stack will be balanced, cut cleaner and exert less force on the saw. If an 8" will fit get one. The saw will be underpowered so you'll need to feed slow and keep the rpms up. The 8" will have a flatter angle of attack and the heavier set will carry more momentum and may dampen vibration better (flywheel effect). When and if you upgrade to a bigger saw, you'll be glad you have the bigger set.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
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