Replies

1. 
   jako17 | Feb 07, 2004 02:26am | #1

   Ok I'll bite, Possibly that they don't work with a riving knife and crown guard.Maybe euro dust systems cannot digest handburger :-)

1. 
   JMartinsky | Feb 07, 2004 04:07am | #2

   I have been using mine now for a while and I don't see where they are any worse than a blade, but I guess I'll see.

   John

1. 
   jako17 | Feb 07, 2004 10:09am | #7

   We still use them in our shop even though we had a major disaster last year.But I might add with great respect.Our accident was quite simply lack of focus resulting in a stupid action by a very experienced woodworker.The dado ate him.His wood working career will be severly curtailed forever.If you think about the amount of material being removed at once,the possibility of the material moving away from the fence and the kickback thing going on(as no splitter or riving knife works) it becomes apparent.I guess in summery Learn by these things ,stay focussed, work safely,woodworking is dangerous but don't get paranoid and thence paralyized about safety.After I had a HSS  shaper knife shatter at 7000 rpm and exit through the dust boot it took me a week to run the machine again or be in the same room with it!

2. 
   SgianDubh | Feb 07, 2004 04:20am | #3

   John, they're pretty hard to find over here. Freud (I think) sell one that can be fitted to a radial arm saw that has a long arbor. Dado blades had a bad reputation as bone and flesh destroyers-- rightly so really. Dado blades, like other cutting tools, don't differentiate at all between wood and bone/flesh just like other wood cutting tools. The problem seems to be that using a dado blade often requires that all guards, splitters, etc., be removed, and we just don't do that at the working furniture maker level.

   It's the regulations that prevent us using dado blades freely. For a start European compliant table or bench saws cannot have arbors long enough to accept a dado blade. This probably explains why all the big name US based saw brands have almost no presence here-- a few of the bottom level Delta contractor type saws, and that's about all I've ever seen.

   Secondly, guarding, such as riving knives and crown guards are expected to be fitted and set as per the regulations--- if the HSE (Health & Safety Executive) walk in and see the guards missing they have pretty strong powers to close down your business, in a flash if they're in a grumpy mood-- weekend woodwhackers can pretty much do what they like though.

   Website

1. 
   JMartinsky | Feb 07, 2004 05:03am | #5

   What about with a power feeder? Would that be allowed? Does anyone on this side of the Atlantic use a power feeder on a tablesaw with a dado? So what do you fellows use? A router or do you just forgo dados altogether?

   John

1. 
   SgianDubh | Feb 07, 2004 05:50am | #6

   John, a dado blade with a power feeder might be allowed, but as I said before, the arbor of European compliant table saws are made too short to accept a dado blade, so your question is moot.

   I suppose we, in effect, forgo 'dado's' altogether. We mostly make housings instead, which seem to work just as well, ha, ha--- ha, ha, ha. Slainte.Website

2. 
   cookshome | Feb 07, 2004 10:43am | #8

   Along the same lines as John's question, I am curious as to what you use, not only for dadoes, but also for machined tenons.  I'm only a hobby guy, and I use a router and table with great speed and success when I'm feeling particularly lazy and don't feel like picking up a chisel (no offence to the power guys, I hope).  I have recently been trying to justify the use of dado blades, but am now wondering if it is really terribly useful for anything besides production work.

   Thanks

   -Dave

1. 
   SgianDubh | Feb 07, 2004 11:52am | #9

   Dave, in the UK at the working level most furniture makers cutting grooves, housings (dado's) rebates (rabbets) and other joints use tools ranging through routers (hand held and table) overhead pin routers, spindle moulders (shapers) radial arm saws, etc.. We produce the same range of joints but don't use the dado blade, certainly not in a table saw anway.

   Tenons can be cut with various machines, perhaps using a combination of tools, such as single or double end tenoners, spindle moulders with stacked tenon cutters, overhead pin routers, bandsaws, radial arm saws, routers-- hand and table use, and perhaps a few tools I've forgotten to mention. And then there are always CNC tools (e.g., routers) that can knock out a whole range of stuff once programmed-- but these are a bit pricey for many small businesses and certainly out of the range of 99.9999% of amateurs.

   At the amateur level, some of the tools listed above are available for use, such as bandsaws, radial arm saws, routers, etc., and both amateurs and professionals can always get out--- shock horror-- a handsaw in a pinch, ha, ha. 

   As I said before, I think Freud (for one) sell a dado blade which I can only imagine would be installed on a radial arm saw, if the arbor is long enough. I haven't looked at modern radial arm saws and it's possible the legislators have forced European machine suppliers to shorten the arbors on new machines thus preventing dado blade installation.

   There may be specialised machines in the European market that can be used with a dado blade in a way that complies with the European regulations, but I'm not sure on that point.  I've only recently returned to live and work here after ten years in the US, so I'm not yet quite up to date with all the current woodworking machinery safety legislation.

   Any other UK based contributors here able to come up with a definitive answer on UK dado blade usage? scrit? Slainte.  Website

1. 
   cookshome | Feb 07, 2004 12:22pm | #10

   Thanks for the insight.  Sounds like you guys are just working with one less tool.  As for me, I think I will keep things going with the backsaw and occasional router.  I like to keep things as safe as possible in my shop.

   -Dave

3. 
   daleduvall | Feb 07, 2004 04:26am | #4

   European safety "experts" consider files and planes dangerous weapons!

   Really, I don't see much difference. Dado's may want to lift the wood a little more when beginning the cut (especially if less than very sharp), but then, the blade is covered during the cut, so....

   Dale