Replies

1. 
   bones | Mar 27, 2006 04:39pm | #1

   I don't know about the CMT, but I have the Forrest Dado King, and love it. It was pricy, but the quality was fantastic.  Good luck on the choice.

1. 
   [email protected] | Mar 27, 2006 07:33pm | #4

   I'm part of a turning group and lately I've been hearing from other members how much they are impressed by the Forest Table Saw blades.... 

1. 
   bones | Mar 27, 2006 10:53pm | #5

   I first heard about them from by brother. I also researched here, and after I bought the first one, I was sold as soon as I used it for the first time. The quality of cut and amount of the carbide on the blade is impressive. They are not cheap, but I am sold. I bought the WWII for table saw, and the WWI for the RAS. I also got a 7 1/4 blade for the PC CS that I use for cutting down plywood.  The final one I got was the dado king. I just figured I had not been dissapointed yet. I'm sure there are other fine blades, but I just can't pull the trigger on another brand.  I bought mine some time ago, but at the time Coastal tool had the best deal (that may have changed). I have bought several from them and they are good to work with.

   http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/ab/forrest/forrest.htm?E+coastest

1. 
   [email protected] | Mar 28, 2006 02:50pm | #7

   thanks, I'll take a look at their site-maybe I'll go with the dado king and try a combination table saw blade.

2. 
   RickL | Mar 27, 2006 05:10pm | #2

   Look at the Ridge Carbide flat bottom dado set. Affordable and excellent quality.

3. 
   forestgirl | Mar 27, 2006 06:42pm | #3

   A vote for Freud here.  Safety Dado is in my cabinet.  If I could afford it, I'd pick up the Dial-a-Width, which is (before someone mis-speaks here) a true stacked dado adjustable by dial rather than shims.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

4. 
   Troy | Mar 28, 2006 08:01am | #6

   Have an 8" Freud super dado and have been pleased with it. I have had mine for about 6 years. When it was new I had to clean a coat of laquer off the blades so that it would stack to the thickness it was supposed to. Anyway I think you can't go wrong with the Freud, the CMT or the Forrest.

   Good luck

   Troy

1. 
   John_D | Mar 28, 2006 08:53pm | #8

   There was a guy talking here a couple months ago about his Freud stack being just thicker than it was supposed to be.  I wonder if he was having this lacquer problem?  Would make sense...My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

1. 
   Troy | Mar 28, 2006 09:02pm | #9

   I was having problems getting the exact width of cut with mine, then I was cleaning the blade and the laquer started coming of after I finished cleaning the blade everything worked much better in that regard.Troy

5. 
   philjohnwilliams | Mar 29, 2006 05:27am | #10

   hi,

   i just started using the CMT dado set in my shop and i have to say that i love it. the cuts are super smooth and flat bottomed, no ridging or scoring. a bit pricier than other stes that i have used, but worth every penny.

1. 
   [email protected] | Mar 29, 2006 02:55pm | #11

   Ok, thanks. I think I am between CMT and Forest-and Forest is more expensive. I have a Delta Contractor's Table Saw and CMT says that for that saw I should use the 6" dado set. They say that because the saw is underpowered I should use 6" instead of 8".

1. 
   charlesm | Mar 29, 2006 05:16pm | #12

   A 6' dado requires 25% less torque than an 8" so it will be easier on your saw. Of course you will get 1" less depth of cut. This is not an issue for all users but certainly a consideration. If you feel you need the extra depth you can use an 8" if you make shallow cuts. Another factor in the power issue is the number of teeth on the dado. The higher the tooth count the more it will tax the saw. A dado set with fewer teeth like the SD208 or DD208 will provide similar benefit of the 6" version of a dado with more teeth.
   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

1. 
   [email protected] | Mar 29, 2006 10:55pm | #15

   My electrician friend offered to convert my Contractor's saw from 110 to 220-do you think it would be worthwhile or should I just save my pennies for either a Unisaw or 2hp Powermatic?

1. 
   charlesm | Mar 29, 2006 11:03pm | #16

   I don't think the conversion will increase the potential power of the saw (assuming the wiring is enough to carry the load now). You can use an 8" dado with a lot of teeth on your saw now if you are willing to make more passes.
   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

2. 
   [email protected] | Mar 30, 2006 02:50pm | #19

   In the project I am working on now-a wine rack-I used standard 3/4 stock magogany, took one pass at 3/8 across the full width board (7 1/4). I then ripped the board down to 3/4 widths for the wine rack grid. Two questions: 1) should I have taken more passes at graduating depths with my present dado set; and 2) if I were using an 8" dado set how many passes would be recommended. (part of me is thinking that if I could make due with an 8" set until I upgrade the table saw I would be better off in the long run).

3. 
   charlesm | Mar 30, 2006 06:00pm | #21

   There are a lot of opinions and anecdotal information relating to the amount to remove in each pass but only actual experience will determine what the saw/dado combination is capable of cutting in a particular material. For saws where power is in question, if the saw is slowing noticeably under the load you should back off and take a smaller bite.
   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

4. 
   Jumpman | Mar 29, 2006 11:35pm | #17

   It won't increase the power of your saw, but it will sure increase the life of the motor and dramatically reduce the start up surge.

   Jeff

5. 
   [email protected] | Mar 30, 2006 02:43pm | #18

   ok, thanks.

6. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 30, 2006 05:02pm | #20

   Converting your motor to 240 volts will have not affect on its power or any other factor.Understanding dual voltage 120/240 volt motors is prefaced by an understanding of how electricity is delivered to a house. Coming in from the pole are three wires consisting of two 120 wires and a common. Voltage measured across the two 120 volt wires will read 240 volts while the voltage read between either 120 volt wire and common will read 120 volts.ALL CONVERTABLE 120/240 VOLT MOTORS RUN ON 120 VOLTS INTERNALLY. There are two coils each running 120 volts and using 1/2 the 120 volt amperage (The coils act as a resistance and split the amperage). All you do when you re-wire the motor to run on 240 is change the wiring connecting of the coils from parallel to series. When wired for 240 volt operation, one 120 volt leg and its associated amperage is routed to each individual coil rather than a single 120 volt line providing 120 volts to both coils. The same voltage and amperage runs through the individual coils no matter how it it wired. As it is amperage that creates heat, and because the amperage in each coil is the same for both wiring configuations, there is no difference in the heat produced by either wiring configuation. The motor is perfectly happy with either voltage and doesn't even know you made the change. The ONLY advantage to re-wiring for 240 is that it reduces the amperage in shop wiring running from the breaker to the wall outlet. This means that the voltage drop in the wiring is lessened. If your wiring is properly sized for the amperage and run length, voltage drop will be minimal and well within the operation range of any good motor. Voltage drop will be almost equal if the wire size is the required size for each different motor amperage. Only if your wiring is inadequate for the higher amperage of 120 volts will the motor run better when you convert it to 240. In this case, upgrading the 120 volt wiring one size and making it a dedicated curcuit, will accomplish the same as installing a 240 volt circuit and wiring the motor for 240. If a motor coming up to speed very slowly or is tripping a breaker during start up or when under normal load, you either have other loads on the circuit, or the circuit is undersized for the amperage or the run length. The fixes are: remove the other loads from the circuit or upgrade the circuit. To upgrade the circuit, either rewire with heavier wire and a larger 120 volt breaker, or convert the circuit to 240 volts which has the affect of lowering the wiring amperage draw. Either of these solutions will equally fix the problem. Again, the motor doesn't care and won't perform differently as long as it gets clean power.
   Howie.........

7. 
   [email protected] | Mar 30, 2006 07:43pm | #24

   Howie:

   thanks for the lesson-I'm convinced-I'll just wait until I'm able to upgrade the table saw.

2. 
   terrylee86 | Mar 29, 2006 05:38pm | #13

   I have had both the Freud super dado and the  Forrest Dado KIng.  I recently gave my son my PM 66 and the Freud.  I use the Forrest on my Laguna TS, but to be perfectly honest I think I can tell the difference. The forrest splits veneer a little less, but that is about it.  Both excellent blades never used the CMT, but they make good router bits.  On a contractors saw I would use a 6" set.

1. 
   [email protected] | Mar 29, 2006 10:52pm | #14

   thanks...

3. 
   Troy | Mar 30, 2006 08:36pm | #25

   I'm sure thats true but I have been using the 8" dado with know problems on my jet contractors saw.Troy

6. 
   Bubbadaylily | Mar 30, 2006 06:21pm | #22

   There is a very informative tool test of 15 dado sets in FWW No. 176. After reading this article, I purchased the Infinity Dadonator and have been completely satisfied with the product and the dados.

1. 
   [email protected] | Mar 30, 2006 07:27pm | #23

   thank you very much...I pulled down #176 and see that they rate the Freud best overall and the Infinity best value. I'll give the article a read.

7. 
   bwil | Apr 01, 2006 05:53pm | #26

   I have to add my recommendation for the Ridge Carbide dado set. It makes unbelievably smooth bottoms and clean sides. I've had my set for three years, I use it constantly on 3/4 hard plywoods and it's still going strong. Plus, the service from John Ferris, owner of Ridge Carbide, is outstanding. When I first bought my set, one of the cutters was cutting too deep -- about 1/64th inch. I called John, sent back the set, he retested it, and had it back in my hands in less than five days and threw in a five dollar bill for my original postage. To me, knowing a guy will personally back up the product makes a huge difference. Great product.