Question is this. I have a 8 pieces of playwood that measure 2′ by 4′ and I need to dadoes the ends of the 2′ side. The 4′ side was easy just did it on the table saw with a dado blade like a rip cut. Trying to slide the 2′ side down the fence proved more difficult. It was very difficult to keep the end of the board square to the fence. I was wondering if anyone had any ideas that work well. I am contemplqating making a crosscut sled like the had in the FWW Tools and Techniques. Any thoughts
Kenney
Replies
Build the crosscut sled. In the meantime, if time is an issue, score the line and use a router. Sounds more like a rabbet than a dado, so if you have one, use a rabbeting bit in the router.
The sled is probably a good option. If you make it so that the fence is greater than 4', you can clamp a piece of scrap to it as a stop, increasing your chances of getting a nice square cut. Good luck - I have a sled that I use with an english tablesaw of 40 odd years vintage, it is big and works well, but the bigger you make 'em, the heavier they become. I will probably wind up looking like Popeye.
Cheers,
Oz
Use a router like somebody else said. It also sounds like you are cutting a rabbet (rebate) joint.
The operation you describe as difficult, i.e., crosscutting using the rip fence, is a fantastic way to achieve kickback, especially with a dado head mounted in your saw. Everywhere I've operated a tablesaw, it's abso-effin-lutely forbidden, irrespective of the blade being used.
I second the recommendation that you use a router or crosscut sled.
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Never use the fence in a crosscutting operation.
To all, I definetly mistyped. I am trying to cut some rabbets at the end of plywood. I think the crosscut sled is what I will do.
Words cannot possibly describe how much easier this would be if you would simply use a router with a straight bit or a rabbeting bit.
In the time it took me to type this the cuts would have already been made.
First of all, there is no problem using a fence for cross-cutting, unlike what someone posted. Perhaps they meant it's a no no to use the fence and mitre guage at the same time. This is dangerous.
There is a safe way to cut this with the fence. Attach a sacrificial fence to your fence, butt it to your dado setup(dado lowered, then slowly brought up, machine on). And cut your rabbetts.
If you never build another jig in your woodworking career, you have to build this one!
http://www.shopnotes.com/main/sn76-toc.html
Joe
I agree that that is a a great jig to have, But a crosscut sled is also a great thing to have around - in fact I have 2 a larger panel one that uses both miter slots and a smaller crosscut one that I also made to use both miter slots for added accuracy and stability. I use them all the time. For the cut he is doing, I would either use a router or put on my sacrifical fence, bury the dado in it to allow for the width of the rabbet and then run it thru - Depend on how many pieces I need and if they can be cut down from one larger piece - if yes, I would use router then rip down on the saw. If I had a number of individual boards to do I would use the tablesaw and crosscut sled.
It all comes down to the number of setups that you would end up needing to do - go with the option that has the fewest setups and save yourself some time.
1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Edited 7/28/2005 11:18 am ET by Rick503
Edited 7/28/2005 11:21 am ET by Rick503
I built this jig and it works but it would not help him with this application.
Doug, I use mine for rabbets as well as dados. I just don't use the floating side.
Joe
Yes, clamps and supporting the unclamped side of the jig with scrap for end rabbets would work. I didn't think it through - thanks
Doug I'm making some shell cabinets here and just want to show you my setup for the end rabbets. BTW, I think I remember talking with you a few months ago about this jig. I do use a piece of scrap for the floating side if I have one, but many times I don't even bother as the fixed side of the jig is supportive when tightened down (I've got this piece hanging over the edge for the pic).
I made mine for a capacity of 38" as my bookshelf sides are usually 17.5" and allows me to dado both sides at the same time. Then I rip them apart.
Joe
Joe, yes we did correspond regarding the jig. I tried it the weekend for an end rabbet and while it works without a support on the floating side, I'm not really comfortable using it that way without support. But, it worked must better that the standard router edge guide.
Doug
I also made the sled, I used toggle clamps to hold the board down. It worked really well. I took a while to get the rails straight but it was worth it.
Kenney66
When I need to cut rabbets, dados, or miters on the ends of narrow pieces, I usually make the cuts on a wide piece then rip it down to my final dimension.
I am contemplqating making a crosscut sled like the had in the FWW Tools and Techniques. Any thoughts
I'd use a Router!
Incra has new miter gage sled attachment (Rockler) that is very accurate for cross cutting on the table saw for about 150.00. Festool has a router guide set up that is also very accurate for this purpose as well as a saw set up that is also very accurate for tool on wood applications(not the table saw).
Look up STOPPED Dadoes...
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