Replies

1. 
   sschefer | Jun 17, 2002 11:01pm | #1

   Normally the chuck has a tapered shaft and that is simply wedged into the quill. The process is to insert the chuck and then set the chuck by lowering it into a piece of scrap wood on the table, (drill press is not running). All of the chucks I have ever bought come with instructions that say you must ensure that the shaft is completely free of lubricant. It sounds like you have followed those instructions. 

   Is the chuck bottoming out in the quill? If so, either the chuck shaft or the quill is excessively worn and it will never stay in place. You may be able to grind some material off the end of the shaft but you may already be beyond the taper and doing so would not have any effect.

   Steve - in Northern California

1. 
   IronDog | Jun 17, 2002 11:17pm | #2

   Thanks Steve,

   Yup, I have tried pressing the chuck into a piece of scrap with force to no avail. I'll try cleaning the shaft and chuck with solvents and see if that helps.

   Hard to know if the chuch is bottoming out on shaft. I'll consider grinding off the shaft tip as a last resort.

   Hasta la vista!

   tom

2. 
   UncleDunc | Jun 17, 2002 11:28pm | #3

   Is the chuck mounted on a shank that is about 3" long and tapered from about 3/4" at the thick end to about 1/2" at the thin end? If so, it's probably a #2 Morse taper shank, and yes, it is supposed to be held in the spindle by friction alone. And yes, the fit is critical enough that roughness in the socket or on the shank will cause the behavior you're seeing.

   If there are warts on the shank, you can clean them up with a file, or a diamond whenstone if it's really hard. Sandpaper isn't good because it's harder to maintain the original taper. If there aren't any obvious bumps or grooves, don't worry about it. Then unplug the machine and check the socket with your finger. If it's smooth, clean the socket and the shank with your favorite low residue solvent, i.e. not mineral spirits, and try again. If the socket has warts, the right solution is a Morse taper reamer, which will set you back something like $40. You might be able to clean it up with sandpaper and end up with a better fit than you've got now, but you might not.

   You can get taper shanks with threads in the skinny end and use a drawbar to keep the chuck in the drill, but that would probably require modifying the drill press. If the socket feels smooth and your cleaned up shank still won't hold, you could try a new shank. You could get an Albrecht keyless chuck with integral shank for about $250. All kinds of possibilities. :)

   Loctite might work if you're happy with the concentricity of the chuck and don't anticipate needing to change tooling. When you do replace the drill press, it would be friendly to tell the buyer about the Loctite.

   Re bottoming out. Seems unlikely to me, but try a piece of modeling clay (putty, etc.) before you start grinding on the shank.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/17/2002 4:31:11 PM ET by Uncle Dunc

1. 
   IronDog | Jun 17, 2002 11:34pm | #4

   Uncle D.

   Good advice. I'll try out your suggestions tomorrow and report back on results.

   Thanks,

   Tom

1. 
   crashtestdummy | Jun 18, 2002 02:40am | #5

   I had the same problem with a 16.5" Delta and a #2 taper. I cleaned both surfaces carefully, then put the chuck back on and ran the table up tight to the bottom of the chuck. I let it sit like this until I needed it again, and the chuck hasn't fallen off since. If you are going to put Loctite on it, see if you can find some RC 609, RC 620, or RC 680. These are retaining compounds made for cylindrical parts, which would be more appropriate than a thread locking compound. If I remember right, RC 680 will fill up to .005".

   I would rather be mountain biking.

1. 
   IronDog | Jun 18, 2002 05:59am | #8

   Hi RMH,

   Could you tell me more about the RC compounds for cylindrical parts? Are they Loctite products?

   Thanks!

   Tom

1. 
   mitch | Jun 18, 2002 03:21pm | #9

   I had the exact same problem with a brand new Delta 17-900 a few years ago and fixed it with the cylindrical bonding Loctite (I forget exactly which product number- 609?), just like RMHJR recommends.  Worked like a charm- no problems since.

   mitch

2. 
   crashtestdummy | Jun 18, 2002 06:14pm | #10

   RC compounds are made by Loctite and available at Grainger, MSC, and McMasterCarr to name a few. Other companies make similar products.I would rather be mountain biking.

3. 
   IronDog | Jun 19, 2002 05:40pm | #11

   Thanks for everyones input. I will try out the suggestions and report back in a couple days or so.

   Tom

4. 
   stevo1952 | Jun 20, 2002 04:59am | #12

   Irondog,

   There is an easy trick that worked for me.

   I heat up the chuck with a clothes iron and then press it on the shaft.  When it cools it will contract and should stay on.

   Good luck

   Stevo

3. 
   jase | Jun 18, 2002 03:41am | #6

   What i've done and the only instructions i've heard are a single tap with a mallet. Two taps can knock it loose or too deeply into the quill. I guess one tap would drive it into the quill enough so that a press fit is obtained. We replaced our drill press chuck at work with a keyless chuck and it only took one tap. We rarely drill wood with it. Mostly aluminum, stainless steel and occasionally spring steel. It hasn't broke loose.

   Jase--Is there a better way?
4. 
   LD | Jun 18, 2002 05:12am | #7

   I have a Jet 5/8" drill press and I was experiencing the same problem.  I finally contacted Jet and was told to clean with isopropyl alcohol, and force the chuck back into the quill.  I told them I had done this but continued to experience the problem.  I was asked about drill size.  I had been using a 1" forstner bit.  I was told that I shouldn't use any bit that drilled a hole > 5/8" as that was the size of my drill press arbor.  The cause is, "the assembly becomes too warm when using the larger bits and that causes some to the lubricant to leak onto the quill/chuck joint which then allows them to seperate".

   When thinking back about my previous problems with this issue, I remembered it was always when I was using a drill > 5/8".   I have found that at no time have I experienced this problem when using a 5/8" or less drill bit.  For holes > 5/8", I've started using hole saws.  ( which presents their own problems)

5. 
   trialnut | Jun 21, 2002 04:22am | #13

   IronDog

   If you haven't already put the loctite to it you may want to try this trick first. Make sure everything is good and clean, carb cleaner works well for this. Make sure there are no bumps on either part as mentioned before. You can then check the fit by lightly holding the shaft up in the hole and seeing if there is any sideplay that feels like it may be rocking on a bump. If there is then use some blueing to find out where and remove it. Once you are satisfied with the fit clean both parts again then rub chalk on the male part. Tap it once lightly on something to remove the excess then ram it home by ramming it down on a block of hardwood on the table. Make sure the top of the block is flat and parallel with the bottom of the quill. You can also help the fit by cooling the male part in the freezer for about 10 min before ramming it home. This method should hold it on basically forever but will still allow easy disassembly if ever wanted. I have seen 4" twist drills drilling through steel being held by nothing more than a morse taper. The taper holds things tightly together but the flat tang on the end keeps them from turning inside each other. Just remember not to do operations that apply side thrust to the tool (such as milling) as this system is not designed to take that type of load. Sorry this is long winded but I hope is gets you drilling again.

   Rich

   The Professional Termite, aka Woodbutcher Extrodinaire

1. 
   IronDog | Jun 21, 2002 05:13pm | #14

   Wow!

   Thanks again for all the suggestions.

   Certainly are a wealth of them here.

   I still haven't had time to try them. I hope this weekend will present an opportunity.

   I think I'll try the Loctite remedy last and the see if some of the other ideas work first.

   It has always been rather mysterious to me how this taper fit is supposed to wishstand all the torque forces. So this has been an education for me.

   Thanks,

   Tom

1. 
   IronDog | Jun 29, 2002 04:29pm | #15

   Hi,

   If any of you are waiting to hear results of trying your suggestions for the chuck problem.....the dang drill press chuck WON'T come off!!!

   Since this thread I have done a lot of drilling. Mostly metal. I drilled a 5/8" bit through 1/4" diamond plate steel. Did'nt come off.

   I put a 1 1/4" forstner bit through 3/16" aluminum plate and it did'nt come off!

   Amazing!

   Apparently all we had to do was talk about a fix. Ha.

   I'm sure it will come off again eventually. But just wanted to let you know what's going on with this weird chuck.

   Tom

1. 
   sschefer | Jul 02, 2002 10:06pm | #16

   Tom, your crackin me up..You gotta be kiddin, its holding on its own now? Must be the miracle of threatend replacement. It might be true that tools are smarter than you think.Steve - in Northern California

1. 
   IronDog | Jul 03, 2002 02:39am | #18

   Steve,

   No Kidding!

   I even tried prying the "dang thing" off!

   It is indeed a Miracle (bows head in moment of silence).

   But, it sure is a useful miracle!

   all for now.....

   Tom

2. 
   BG | Jul 03, 2002 02:28am | #17

   Don't ever underestimate the power of swearing at the damn thing !!  Curiously, i had the same problem when i drilled steel.