Replies

1. 
   Pondfish | Dec 01, 2005 03:35pm | #1

   You must wipe off the excess with a rag.  Oils are not meant to be brushed on like paint, and will only cure when applied in thin coats. 

   It's not too late to wipe down the crib.  Fortunately, "Danish" oils have a high proportion of thinners, so there shouldn't be too much trouble.  You might want to rescue the crib by doing the following:

   1) wipe as much finish off as you can.  If there are sticky patches, you may need to try sanding them down with 220 grit sandpaper (do a wet sanding with more danish oil as the lubricant).

   2) let dry 1-2 days (it's warm in Malaysia (dries faster), but also humid (slows drying))

   3) wipe on the finish again, let sit 30 mintues, then wipe it off until dry

   4) let dry 1-2 days

   You can repeat this several times, or stop after a few coats.  But be sure to wipe the surface dry.  Cherry is open pored and can bleed out bits of oil for a few days, so give the crib a wipe a couple times a day.

   After it has dried for a week, you can polish it with heavy rubbing and wax.

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
1. 
   woodsplicer | Dec 02, 2005 02:10pm | #3

   Thank you for your advice. Will keep you posted on progress.
   Kindly let me know what is the solvent and thinner for Danish oil.
   I used mineral oil- kerosene, to clean up.
   Woodsplicer.

1. 
   Pondfish | Dec 02, 2005 03:36pm | #5

   You can use mineral spirits or other paint thinner.  It's best to look on the ingredients for the Danish oil and see what they list as the thinner, and use that.  However, I've never had a problem with using mineral spirits (I get the low odor type from Lowes or HD). 

   I should point out that by doing a gentle wet sanding using Danish oil as the lubricant, your heavy application of oil and the wet sanding will do a good job of filling any pores in the cherry wood.  Just be sure to wipe the wet sanded surface dry, going back every so often to look for oil seeping out.  Oil that seeps out and is not wiped dry will leave slightly raised shiny spots in the surface (not good).

   Good luck and let us know how it turns out.  Finishing is perhaps the most challenging aspect of wood working, but an oil finish is a good way to get started.  Just remember to wipe the surface down after letting the oil soak in for 30 minutes or so.  You want to wipe the surface when the oil is feeling a bit viscous, but not too tacky.Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005

1. 
   woodsplicer | Dec 19, 2005 05:30pm | #11

   Thank you all for your help and advice.All the suggestions are useful. I have followed them with some changes to suit the local weather conditions.
   Due to the hot weather in Malaysia I have used mineral spirit as a lubricate to wet sand the surface.Danish oil as a lubricate dried very fast and the surface became too tacky to sand.The lubricate became a thick mixture of dissolved Danish oil and wood dust after some sanding and indeed the mixture did a good job of filling any pores in the cherry wood. The surface was wiped dry with kitchen paper towels after the wet sanding. I used wet and dry sand paper.The surface was left for 2 days to dry completely after which it was then sanded with 320 grit sand paper.The surface was then rubbed and buffed.On the next day a layer of Danish oil was applied with a piece of cotton cloth. Any excess oil was wiped off.It was left to dry for a day.On the following day I gave the surface a hard rub and buff.The finish is just brilliant after a thin layer of wax and more rubbing and buffing.I am extremely happy with the result.Thank you all for the help.With best regards and wishing all a happy christmas and a happy new year.Woodsplicer.P S. My son came to pick up the crib for my grandson this afternoon. He said to me " Dad, this is the best Christmas gift as far as I can remember!"
   I repied "Its a pleasure" as I tried to prevent a tear at the corner of my eye.It has made me very happy.

1. 
   Pondfish | Dec 19, 2005 06:30pm | #12

   Welcome to the fulfilling but (at times) frustrating world of finishing.  I'm glad the suggestions worked for you and that you completed the project successfully.  It's times like these that the outcome is so positive that the trouble is all worth it.Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005

2. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 19, 2005 11:14pm | #13

   GREAT it worked out OK for you.. Nothing like a slurry of the wood you are using for the filler.. My opinion..AND a a Happy Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and your family.May the 'Little One' always be Healthy, Happy and Wise...

2. 
   BossCrunk | Dec 01, 2005 07:07pm | #2

   Reapply the oil and you will remove the residue.  Buff this reapplied coat thoroughly and keep it buffed (paper towels work the best) over several days until no bleed-back occurs.

   Dispose of towels, rags, etc. properly.  They canl spontaneously combust.

1. 
   woodsplicer | Dec 02, 2005 02:12pm | #4

   Thank you for your advice. Will keep you posted on progress.
   Woodsplicer.

2. 
   dmt | Dec 07, 2005 01:46am | #9

   I agree with all that was said r.e. removing and reapplying the finish, but I disagree with the use of paper towels. I had several bad experiences using paper towels to wipe off a penetrating finish. I finally bought a box of cotton shop towels from the local Lowe's and have had no further problems. 

3. 
   Kevin | Dec 02, 2005 06:37pm | #6

   I'll second everything Pondfish said.

   A quick word on why you want to apply Danish oil in thin coats...  The reason, and also the reason you ran into a problem, is that it cures or hardens via exposure to oxygen in the air. When you apply it too heavily, the oil in the wood doesn't get exposed to enough oxygen to cure and thus stays liquid or sticky.

4. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 06, 2005 04:38am | #7

   Buff it off with the Green or Grey 3M pads.. Clean it best you can with a nice CLEAN cotton rag.. Add another 'THIN' coat.. Shoudl work OK..

5. 
   JohnAIA | Dec 07, 2005 01:17am | #8

   Just use some more danish oil and wipe it on, then wipe it dry. I like to then use 1lb cut shellac wiped on with a rag. Next day, finish with wax applied with 0000 steel wool. Shellac is used on M&M's candy, and wax is harmless too. Mineral spirits is the solvent for danish oil.

6. 
   TomHigby | Dec 07, 2005 04:46am | #10

   I would go over the piece with a pad of fine steel-wool soaked in danish oil, then wipe with paper towel. I'd wait a few days then re-apply and wipe, wait again and apply a third time, then after several days apply paste wax and buff.

   Tom