I have edge joined 50mm x 250mm (5 x 2in) thick Australian Jarrah which is a deep red in colour, because these boards are nearly 3m long I had trouble squaring the edges on my jointer as they weigh about 15kgs each. There are some parts of the join that are not flush and I need to fill with something that I can apply Danish Oil over. If I mix some dust from sander with Titebond 11 glue will it accept the oil or show up as white. Any suggestions will be most welcome.
Thanks in advance
Dan Faux
Replies
Hi westpest:I'm sure that you'll have a thin white line ,because the glue will not accept stain & show through the clear oil.Possible to take a small amount of oil & mix some aniline dye (that matches wood color) & use a fine pointed artist brush & draw in line to cover white areas. Do this after the first coat of oil, that has dried over night. Let mixture of dye & oil dry.Then continue with additional coats. I've found that if you sand in the oil with 600 wet or dry and let the sandings resdue fill in the pores of the wood you will have a finish that will be smooth as slik & last a long time & easy to repair.You'll also have silky hands after sanding on 16 to 20 coats of oil.Good luck Tank.
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Hi Westpest,
I've had very good success with mixing 220 or greater sanding dust with a litle bit of Danish Oil, not much at all, until you have something with the consistency of wood putty. Use this to fill the voids and you'll have no problems with compatability. This works particularly well with Cherry.
Bill
Edited 4/18/2002 2:57:11 PM ET by Bill
What keeps the sawdust/Danish oil paste from coming out of the voids. I've used sawdust and glue but never thought to mix dust with finish.
Bobby
Danish Oil will cure or "harden" fairly well so if this technique is used in areas such as around voids that may occur with handcut dovetails or finishing nail holes they will firm up quite nicely. This was a technique that was taught to me by a cabinet maker that I worked for about 30 years ago, so I can't take the credit for the idea.
Bill
Bill
Just thought I'd let you know that the dust /danish oil filler worked a treat, after applying just two coats it looks great.
Thanks for your help
Dan Faux
To Westpest & Bill -
Now I want to try that dust/danish oil mixture. Thanks to both of you for the idea.
Dan
Test it first. Some wood dust turns very dark when mixed with Titbond II. Might try mixing it with a lacquer. I have used that a few times. but usually in a protected spot.
Curt
Wood floor finishing contractors save the fine sawdust and mix it with "laquer sealer" (not sure exactly what this is, maybe just laquer sanding sealer) into a thick paste used to fill any nail holes, pin hole knots, dings etc. It hardens up just like off- the- shelf wood dough, after sanding it takes stain exactly like the flooring material.
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