Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 31, 2009 01:10am | #1

   If you applied the Watco correctly, virtually none of it remained on the surface of the shellac since two coats of Seal Coat from the can (2 lb. cut) almost completely sealed the wood so that when you wiped off the excess Watco you should have wiped it virtually all off.  Yes, in some circumstances, you can use a wash coat of shellac to prevent "blotching" on cherry.  But a wash coat would be 1 coat, no more, of Seal Coat thinned to less than 1 lb. cut. 

   Don't put on any more Watco.  You run the risk of not wiping it off sufficiently.  If it feels at all sticky, you haven't wiped enough off and you should try as soon as possible to wipe any not quite cure Watco off with mineral spirits if it will. 

   Watco, and other oil/varnish mix finishes are designed to be used only on unsealed wood for an "in-the-wood" finish.  A light wash coat that doesn't seal the wood can be tolerated.  Applied over a film finish such as shellac, the oil/varnish mix, if allowed to dry on the surface, would be a soft, almost gummy mess. 

   To be safe, let any Watco that may have remained cure thoroughly, and then you can apply additional shellac if you want.  The shellac will have only a very minor additional darkening effect since Seal Coat is basically a blonde shellac. 

2. 
   Ckenney | Mar 31, 2009 01:45am | #2

   Ditto what Steve said; Danish oil is meant to be an "in the wood" finish, and won't do much on top of the shellac.

   Instead, you can use a wiping varnish if you want the added protection over a pure shellac finish. (Or straight Poly, for that matter, but I've always preferred the thinner wipe-on poly, for ease of application.)

   Good Luck

   http://acornhouse.wordpress.com/
   a hobbyist's journey
1. 
   sierramtns | Mar 31, 2009 05:23am | #3

   Thanks everyone. I will try some wipe on poly. I already have some on hand.