Replies

1. 
   Howard_Acheson | Nov 22, 1999 07:33am | #1

   *
   Follow the directions on the can of the product you are using. Norm uses Watco and he is following the manufacturer's directions.

1. 
   CStanford_ | Nov 24, 1999 02:18am | #2

   *Don't worry about the number of "coats". Keep the wood well wetted for about 20 minutes and then wipe off the excess and buff thoroughly. Wait a day and do it again. Wait another day and do it again.I guarantee you'll have no problems no matter what brand Danish oil you are using.

1. 
   KG_Place | Nov 30, 1999 08:13am | #3

   *I would like to use (Behlen) medium walnut to help darken some cherry. I have already used a brown cherry stain. I like the danish oil to seal and finish. It is too dark, so I would like to lighten it up. What do I use to make the medium lighter with what I have. Mineral spirits? Linseed oil? What?

1. 
   Kevin_A_Shaw | Dec 16, 1999 06:02am | #4

   *Do you have any thoughts on the durability of these Danish Oils (like Watco, and such). SHould one always coat them with varnish, or with enough coats (say, 3-5) will they be durable enough? I love the ease with which they can be repaired, but seem to have a built-in bias from my childhood telling me to put on atleast one coat of varnish to protect them. In particular, I'm thinking of a white oak blanket chest I'm making. Thanks in advance, Kevin A Shaw

1. 
   Charles_Patrick | Dec 16, 1999 07:32am | #5

   *Re Danish oil versus Tried and True oil, these are 2 very different animals. I have used T+T and love the effect on raw cherry, but prefer to topcoat it with either a varnish, lacquer, or an oil/resin mix like Livos "Kunos" (similar to a Danish oil but lower toxicity)Danish oil dries more quickly than T+T because it contains driers unlike T+T. Danish oil also has lots more evaporative solvents, hence the need to "flood" the surface.I agree with CStanford that the important thing is to keep a wet surface for a minimum 20 minutes.My favorite trick is to not to "wipe tight" the final coat of oil but to leave a slight film. This will dry glossy and hard in about a day. Then I rub it out with 4/0 steel wool either with or without wax. Looks and feels great!Still doesn't approach standard film finishes like lacquer or varnish for toughness, but beautiful for many application

2. 
   Jamie_S. | Aug 20, 2000 06:26am | #6

   *Is there any way to use varnish (or a varnish/tung oil mix) over Watco, or must one use polyurethane as they say on the can? I'm refinishing a desk top and would much prefer a varnish finish.

3. 
   Howard_Acheson | Aug 20, 2000 05:48pm | #7

   *Watco is an oil/varnish product. Once it has cured, you can top coat it with any varnish including poly varnish. For that matter, once cured it can be over coated with any finish. You can tell if it is cured by it odor. If you detect any odor it is not cured. It can take up to 30 days.I would lightly scuff sand with 280 paper or the finest Scotchpad.

4. 
   Ian_Barley | Sep 30, 2000 03:04am | #8

   *I use Danish Oil for over Iroko and have found that you need to ensure the surface is flooded for at least 15 minutes. I stopped using wire wool because I got spot stains on the outdoor stuff I make which I attributed to metal dust mixed in the finish. Now I use nylon abrasives (3M?) to do the rub off and get more consistent results.It is real important to follow manufacturers instructions at least until you are familiar with a brand because not all Danish Oils are the same.