I know this subject has probably been discussed a million times, but I’ll risk bringing it up once more. I’m using Watco ‘Cherry Color’ danish oil on a cabinet and bookcase. It’s been finishing great up until I hit the cabinet top which is mostly cherry ply with a cherry hardwood edging. A Very large surface area. It’s likely a result my sanding, but I’m seeing large areas of blotching across the surface. I understand cherry is prone to this, but are there any tricks to minimize or eliminate the blotches after a coat of oil has been applied? Should I try sanding it down a bit with 220grit? Will it go away as I add more coats?
I appreciate any advice. The finishing has gone so well up until now. And I hate to have the most visible component look sloppy. Thanks!
Shawn
Replies
Shawn,
This may or may not be what you want to hear. But your finishing is still going well. The "blotching" that you are experiencing is the figure in the cherry being revealed by the finish. Some cherry has more, or more consistent figure. When it does it is called curly or figured cherry and costs big bucks. I like the look that some call blotching, it is what that piece of cherry was destined to do. Think of it as a bonus. You got figured cherry for the standard price.
Rob
"And I hate to have the most visible component look sloppy." Yet another example of why it's iimportant to try your finish on scrap before touching the project with finishing materials. Cherry can be difficult to finish. Plywood can be even more so.
Oh I can assure you there was plenty of testing on scrap. Again, I think it was the way I sanded such a large surface. I first sanded 150grit then 220grit. There must have been some spots I missed with the 220. And you're right, I learned on this project how difficult cherry plywood can be to finish.
To fix the issue, I ended up resanding with 220grit and then applied another coat. It looks pretty good. now
In a few days I'll do the wipe on Poly.
Shawn
The future solution for this problem is not more testing, it is to apply thinner to the sanded surface and you see the missed areas (as darker areas). As you probably know it will show also unwanted glue smears before any finishing is done.
"It looks pretty good. now " That is very good news! It would be heartbreaking to not be able to recover from the situation (all that work.....ya know.....)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Oh I can assure you there was plenty of testing on scrap. I hear you..Cherry is Cherry.. Sort of like a woman.. They have their ways and if you spend the time to understand them MAYBE all will work out well!
If Cherry is as hard to understand as my wife, then I'm switching to Maple.
Ah, but then Maple is simply blond instead of red head. All joy to you, complexity is the spice of life!
Mike D :)
If Cherry is as hard to understand as my wife, then I'm switching to Maple.Dang! If Cherry is as hard to understand as my wife, then I'm switching to Maple. Now what to do for it! Wife is much easier to get along with.When you understand a Woman no FUN anymore!
Edited 12/29/2007 10:28 am by WillGeorge
Hello Shawn,
As others have said, cherry has a unique figure and resin content, that can make it look blotchy if you are not very meticulous about your finishing schedule. I find that sanding all the way to 400 before applying Danish oil then wet sanding with 600 and 800 on subsequent coats, works very well for me. Attached is a jewelry box in curly cherry and Watco Danish oil. I followed the above schedule. If I had stopped at 220, the curl figure would looked dull and lifeless (blotchy).
Bob, Tupper Lake, NY
Did you use plain sliced or rotary cut plywood? Rotary will never look like solid lumber and will be more prone to the blotching.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I suggest you use Watco natural first then quickly wipe dry and add your colored Watco Directions are on the can.
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