Replies

1. 
   DonC | Sep 11, 2007 04:19am | #1

   I've used both products for my Industrial Arts students. It's hands down Deft is superior. Very user friendly and builds solids quicker yet still has the oil look with easy repairability. Lasts alot longer before you need to apply maintance oil.

2. 
   [email protected] | Sep 11, 2007 06:43am | #2

   I usually start with Watco, and if I want more of a surface finish I decant a bit of the Watco into a separate container and add about a third to a fourth of the volume of an oil based poly or varnish and use that mixture for the final coat. 

   Just to give you a basic idea of the nature of the beast, so to speak:  and a basic primer on oil based finishes, I will expand slightly on the topic, but remember there are lots of books on the topic and to really understand it you may need to read at least one of them. 

   There are lots of home brew recipes out there for wiping oil finishes.  Basically they are all pretty close to equal parts of boiled linseed oil, an oil based varnish or polyurethane, and mineral spirits.   I don't have the means or inclination to analyse the commercial finishes, but they would all seem to be variations on this theme. 

   And there are recipes for "wiping varnish", and "wiping poly".  Most of those are three parts finish with two parts mineral spirits. 

   Knowing that the boiled linseed oil never really dries, the varnish dries hard, and the polyurethane dries harder, will let you tailor the finish to what you are trying to accomplish. 

   And, as I do, you can vary the blend during the process to fine tune your results. 

3. 
   TaunTonMacoute | Sep 11, 2007 01:56pm | #3

   I thnk Deft has more varnish in it so it depends on how much, if any (and how fast), surface build you want for any particular project as to which one you pick.

   
   

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   Edited 9/11/2007 8:22 am ET by TaunTonMacoute

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Sep 11, 2007 07:25pm | #4

   Be careful when "building" a film on the surface--more than a small amount of oil in the oil/varnish mix will leave a very soft surface.  You want to wipe away all excess oil and not let it build on the surface but "in-the-wood". 

   For a finish that you want to build on the surface, use a wiping varnish.  Waterlox makes some good ones, or you can mix mineral spirits with any oil based varnish to achieve wiping consistency.  Just leave out the BLO. 

1. 
   TaunTonMacoute | Sep 11, 2007 07:36pm | #5

   Good advice.  I use varnish when I need a varnish.  Still love Watco and wax though, and figure the diluted varnish resins don't hurt.

1. 
   Boomer179 | Sep 12, 2007 02:24am | #7

   what kind of wax?

1. 
   TaunTonMacoute | Sep 12, 2007 01:54pm | #8

   I've managed to make a can of Liberon Professional's Wax last for several years.  It was hands down the best but that formulation is no longer available from them.  But another high-carnauba content wax from Liberon or another supplier is what I recommend. 

   It will buff to a higher sheen.  If you really want a low sheen then a predominantly beeswax formula will be just the ticket.

    

2. 
   sapwood | Sep 12, 2007 12:52am | #6

   I don't know what you consider to be soft, but I've finished a mountain of wood by wiping on coats of watco well after it has stopped soaking in. Essentially, I'm using it as a wiping varnish. This finish turns out to be long lasting with a beautiful soft look. It holds its sheen for a very long time.

2. 
   GreggA | Sep 14, 2007 04:22am | #9

   Everybody - Thanks for all of the input. I am actually trying to keep this project natural looking without a lot of surface build or gloss.
   -Gregg

1. 
   TaunTonMacoute | Sep 14, 2007 09:16am | #10

   If that's the case then use Watco and then Fidde's wax.....

1. 
   Samson | Sep 14, 2007 04:51pm | #11

   TTM,

    

   I'm a recent convert to wax for a final finish.  I've seen you recommend a few different ones.  While I understand some basic differences: (bees wax vs. Carnuba) and the carrier/thinners etc., there seem to be a lot to choose from.  Would you be willing to post a brief primer on what brands you favor and for what result.  For example, how much difference does it make if I use Liberon Bison, Butchers, Mylands, Fidde, Renaissance, Fiddes, Goddards.?  I mean I know there are differences, but I'm hoping to avoid buying and testing to figure it out.  Thanks. 

   Best,

   Samson

   PS: I'd even be very happy with a one liner response like, "I've never been disappointed by _____ and ____ to achieve a satin or glossier finish, respectively."

   Edited 9/14/2007 10:12 am ET by Samson

1. 
   TaunTonMacoute | Sep 14, 2007 06:59pm | #12

   First of all, don't make it too terribly complicated. That ruins the beauty of simplicity.I can buff the following waxes to a pretty nice sheen:(1) The aforementioned Liberon Professional's Wax (LPW)
   (2) Black Bison
   (3) Myland'sFidde's is a lower sheen/higher beeswax content wax. I currently have Fidde's on hand and the LPW that I love so dearly.I don't mind solvents in wax, especially a few years down the road where they assist in cleaning off the old wax.

   Edited 9/14/2007 12:00 pm ET by TaunTonMacoute

2. 
   Samson | Sep 14, 2007 08:24pm | #13

   Thanks, and I wasn't meaning to make it complicated.  More just overwhelmed by the variety available and unsure whetehr any had significant benefits or downsides.  Thanks again.

3. 
   TaunTonMacoute | Sep 14, 2007 08:44pm | #14

   I simply look at them as high-sheen/low-sheen.  I usually go for a high shine, because they tend to lose shine in a relatively short period of time with use.  A little buffing will bring it back, a very little buffing won't bring quite as much of it back, so you end up with 'customizable' sheen for what it's worth.

   And water beads up better on the high Carnauba content waxes.... for those times when some Neanderthal sets a sweating highball glass on your masterpiece.

   Edited 9/14/2007 2:06 pm ET by TaunTonMacoute

4. 
   Jimma | Sep 14, 2007 11:34pm | #15

   I prefer the Deft by a wide margin -- 3,4 or more wipe-on coats and you get a soft glow with a "real wood" feel. I've used it on walnut, cherry and maple. It's adds less of its own color to the wood and it's real user-friendly. Hal Taylor uses it on his rocking chairs in preference to a Maloof-type finish.