Replies

1. 
   ETG | Dec 01, 2003 09:08pm | #1

   Tried and True makes a danish oil finish that you can put on top of the current T&T coating.  And you can tint T&T - as their web site states: "All Tried& True wood Finishes are clear coatings. They work over well preparedsurfaces, colored with stains or dyes, or on their own for a deep, natural sheen. "  Check them out at http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/. 

2. 
   VeniciaL | Dec 02, 2003 10:29am | #2

   Spitfire,

   Did you try the darker danish oil on a scrap which also had a previous application of Tried & True? The Tried and True will have sealed the wood quite a bit and will prevent the danish oil from affecting the wood color much.

   Also, the cherry is going to darken quite a bit over time with exposure to light. It's inevitable. You might want to wait a while before using the danish finish to darken the wood.

   VL

1. 
   wgsdvm | Dec 02, 2003 07:34pm | #3

   Yes, i did try it on the scrap with 1 coat of Tried & True cured for 36 hours.  I also took the plunge and did the whole dresser last night and it came out just fine.

   I heard complaints about very long drying /curing times needed for Tried & True products.

   I am warming it up, applying thin coats, and rubbing it off rather quickly, I am NOT following directions and letting it soak in for 20 minutes, I hope it works with futrue coats.    

   I only bought a pint of the Tried & True and hope it doesnt stay tacky. 

   Is it best to buff with 0000 steel wool, or lintless rags.  For some reason 0000 steel wool is a pain to use

1. 
   VeniciaL | Dec 02, 2003 08:00pm | #5

   Spitfire,

   Good luck with the T&T. I gave up on it. Maybe the driers in the danish oil will migrate into the T&T and encourage it to ultimately harden better than it does on its own.

   VL

1. 
   wgsdvm | Dec 02, 2003 10:23pm | #7

   I read messages on this forum from many folks who tried and then opted not to use Tried and True any longer.   

   I re-read Chris B.'s article and even looked at the Taunton Press video on his application of the stuff.

   If I am not happy with it with this piece, I'll go back to varnish/turp/linseed oil  mix as a finish.

   Thanks for taking time to help a novice.

1. 
   ETG | Dec 03, 2003 03:59pm | #8

   Lots of folks seem to have problems with T&T.  Putting it on thin is an understatement.  On flat surfaces, I use a cheap plastic squeegee that normally would be used with tiled surfaces.  It evenly distributes the finish, keeps it very thin and allows quick drying.

3. 
   NickC | Dec 02, 2003 07:54pm | #4

   Why not tint some T&T and use that? I've done this and it works well. I used the TransTint dye (http://www.homesteadfinishing.com) and just added drops until I got the right shade.

1. 
   wgsdvm | Dec 02, 2003 10:19pm | #6

   I think that is a good option too.   Thanks.

   At this point I am very happy with the color..

4. 
   DennisS | Dec 04, 2003 09:43am | #9

   Spitfire -

   There are a lot of more experienced finishers responding to your question but .... have you considered that cherry will darken some naturally over time? I have no idea how different finishes affect the amount or color of this darkening but it does happen. Maybe given time your dresser will mellow out to the shade you like?

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   JasonKehl | Dec 04, 2003 03:16pm | #10

   For what it is worth I have used the T&T finish on a cherry table and I did follow the directions on the can. I used very thin coats, lots of rubbing and the finish dried just fine and looks absolutely gorgeous, the sheen is beautiful and there is no hint of tackiness.  Jas.

1. 
   wgsdvm | Dec 19, 2003 05:24pm | #13

   JAS,

   Did you let the T&T soak in for the full hour recommended ?  I am not having that much trouble with it but it does take gretaer than 36 hours to dry.  I ahve been lettign it soak in for 30 - 45 minutes.

   Spitfire

1. 
   JasonKehl | Dec 23, 2003 03:30pm | #14

   Yes, I let it soak in for the full hour. I pretty much followed the directions right to the letter except for using the steel wool. I have some polishing cloths made from some funky  synthetic used for rubbing the paste mold release wax off of fibreglass molds, they are completely lint free and work very well for both the application and removal of the T&T finish. I did LOTS of rubbing for both removing the excess after the 1 hour and then again after the 24 hours and before the subsequent coats.

      Jas.

1. 
   wgsdvm | Dec 23, 2003 04:21pm | #15

   Thanks JAS,  Happy Holidays to you and yours, 

2. 
   wgsdvm | Dec 19, 2003 05:16pm | #12

   Dennis,

   Yes I have heard and learned that cherry will darken naturally over time. But for this piece I was finishing, I needed to match an Ethan Allan hutch which was on the dark side.  So the CEO of our houeshold (haha) aksed that I make sure it matched  :-)

5. 
   SawdustRay | Dec 19, 2003 02:25am | #11

   Give Tried & True a call and ask to speak with one of their product rep.s.  I had questions about Bartley Gels, called them up and spoke with Mr. Bartley himself.  Truth is, the manufacturer is the best one to tell you what is in their product and what will and won't work.  Most of them are extremely helpful enthusiasts themselves.