Replies

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 05, 2007 10:25pm | #1

   Use a chemical stripper to remove the "tung oil finish". It' just linseed oil and varnish. Easy to strip. Then sand and refinish any way you want.Howie.........

   
   

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   Edited 2/5/2007 10:09 pm ET by HowardAcheson

2. 
   RGJ | Feb 06, 2007 03:34am | #2

   I think I'd go with a test piece. If you have some scraps of maple you used for the project then apply the same tung oil finish to it. You could divide it into sections then try various techniques to darken the finish. If all else fail then strip, (ug).

    

   RGJ

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 06, 2007 07:20am | #3

   Stripping works fine, and shouldn't be a hugh problem. 

   The other alternative is to apply a toner--finish with dye or pigment to add color on top of the previous finish.  This requires spray equipment, and will obscure the grain to some degree.  It will also give a different look with more of a film finish rather than an "in-the-wood" oiled finish. 

    

3. 
   upstateBill | Feb 06, 2007 06:50pm | #4

   Years ago before I knew about all the toners and dies I refinished a Victorian bedroom set. It was all original but for the dresser witch had been belt sanded taking off any patina. It was much lighter in color so I tried a spray can of toner I got at a speciality paint store. It matched beautifully but hid the grain somewhat. With all the things my wife put on the dresser it didn't matter. I had to use a lot so it was a big change but it worked.    

1. 
   VinceG | Feb 06, 2007 11:39pm | #5

   Thanks for all the replies. I'd prefer not to strip the existing finish, and I'm using some old scraps of maple to test various methods.  However, I'm sure that stripping and starting over is the true way to do this. I was hoping for a quick cheat, and I still want to try adding an oil-soluble dye to my "tung oil", and then sanding it in. 

   I'm not sure anymore who presented a method of finishing with tung oil that required numerous coats, each one sanded in with progressively higher grit sandpaper, but that's the technique I'm hoping to try here, albeit modified. I only got up to 320 with these pieces, so if start now with an intial dry sanding at 220 (or maybe 120) just to remove the film and open the wood a bit, and then start sanding in my "tung"/dye concoction, maybe it'll work. Anyway, I'm going with a small test piece first, and if it doesn't work,  I guess I'll be getting some chemical stripper.

   upstateBill, you're not suggesting that I apply toner on top of the existing finish, are you?

   Thanks all,

   VinceG