Replies

1. 
   Kevin | May 13, 2007 02:36am | #1

   You didn't say what kind of finishing equipment you have available to you. It might help to know that.

1. 
   losttexan | May 13, 2007 04:01am | #2

   Nothing even close to fancy. I'll be using rags! At least, I do not have a spray kit. Thanks - (I've been a wipe-on poly guy and this is my first attempt to change the color of wood.)

   Edited 5/12/2007 9:03 pm ET by losttexan

2. 
   SteveSchoene | May 13, 2007 04:44am | #3

   The best results come from patience.  Cherry will naturally darken over time.  It is UV sensitive so unless you can take the cabinets outside to accelerate the darkening in the sun, the next best alternative is flourescent light. 

   With spray equipment the answer might be to use a toner--probably a number of coats of lightly tinted color to build to the proper color and darkness.  This can obscure the wood grain and isn't really as natural looking as cherry that has darkened by itself.  But this is very commonly done and is a look that for some reason many buyers of kitchen cabinets like. . 

   However, without spraying using a toner is very difficult to get on evenly.  You might experiment with using shellac with a bit of dye in it.  This can be applied with a rag and with care it can be brought off, but I still think it a major challenge.   Ordinary oil based stains and the like aren't suitable to use over a fully sealed finish, though using a dark glaze to darken inside corners might be handily accomplished at get you a little closer to the look you want. 

   You can strip the existing finish and stain the bare wood before applying a clear top coat.  This is a lot of work.  Use chemical strippers, and avoid sandpapeer as much as possible, or you will make the cabinets lighter than they are now.  Also remember, that cherry will darken anyway, so that if you get it the perfect darkness to start with, it will become too dark a few years down the road. 

3. 
   mapleman | May 13, 2007 07:26am | #4

   Tex,

   My suggestion would be to lightly scuff the existing doors/cabinets with 400 grit, or maybe 220. Sand with the grain only. Then apply a coat or two or three of a gel stain, which should not obscure the grain. These gel stains are formulated to give steel doors a natural wood look with graining tools, etc. Then you can topcoat with just about anything after the stain has had time to dry properly. Bartley and General finishes both make exceptional gel stains, much better than the minwax crap that Home Creepo sells.

   Lee

1. 
   losttexan | May 13, 2007 03:46pm | #5

   That's good news about the gel stains. As for letting it age naturally, part of the issue is making it match closer to new fronts which will be brownish. I could paint the cherry cabinet frame and side panels that are seen from some angles, but painting over nice wood seems such a shame, if I could do anything else.
   One question, mapleman, what do ou mean about gel stains being formulated to give steel doors a natural wood look? Unsure what stains and steel have in common here.

1. 
   mapleman | May 13, 2007 09:39pm | #6

   Tex,

   I should have made myself a little more clear. My point was that if you are leaving the majority of the finish on the cabinets, and not sanding to bare wood, you will need a product that will not wipe off completey. There will be no absorption into bare wood. The gel stains are thicker, and most are formulated to stain those wood/fiberglass doors (no absorption there either) and make them look like wood.  I just mean that in general, gel stains would be better suited to darkening your cabinets, than an oil based stain. I also might be tempted to try a dye as well (alcohol based - these dry very fast). You will need to be careful that your wipe-on finish doesn't pull your stain off of the cabinets when you finish them.

   Good luck,

   Lee

1. 
   losttexan | May 14, 2007 02:06am | #7

   Thanks, Lee -

   So I'll try dye, then gel, then finish, and play around with that on test pieces. Any brand of dye you'd suggest?

   best,

   Peter

1. 
   mapleman | May 14, 2007 04:48am | #10

   Tex,

   I have used behlen solar lux (alcohol-based) and transtint (concentrate, mixed with alcohol or water) with great results. J.E. Moser from Woodworker's Supply is another good brand, they sell 3 different types of dyes, alcohol, water, and oil soluble.

   Lee

2. 
   losttexan | May 18, 2007 06:20pm | #11

   Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm going to test dye and stain on top of what's already there, and save the from-scratch cherry plan for when I have a project I'm building from the ground up.
   Peter

4. 
   pmmatty | May 14, 2007 03:18am | #8

   The fortunate or unfortunate thing about the forum is that you will receive several different advice suggestions which may just confuse you further.  I have struggled with cherry for some time and finally have my answer.  I cut and finish sand my parts and give them 2 days in the sun.  After assembly I spray garnet shellac and then pad the final coat.  This gives me a darker cherry; I don't cover any grain with dyes or stains, and have my protection as well.  Just my way.  PMM

1. 
   mapleman | May 14, 2007 04:44am | #9

   I think what everyone is losing sight of here is the fact that these are existing, finished cabinets, which are ? old. Someone earlier suggested putting the cabinets out in the sun or using flourescent light to darken the cabinets.

   More than likely, these cabinets have darkened about as much as they are going to naturally. The OP wants suggestions on darkening the cabinets without stripping them down to the bare wood and starting over.

   Lee

1. 
   HowardAcheson | May 18, 2007 07:00pm | #12

   >> using flourescent light to darken the cabinets.That wouldn't work anyway. Most household flourescent lamps are UV suppressed so they don't fade fabrics in furniture, rugs or curtains.Howie.........