Last month I asked for advice on finishing the Ash wood on my Morris Minor Traveller.
I prepped the wood and using TransTint Honey Maple I’ve applied several coats.
Testing it a sample of Ash I got a nice warm tone mixing a teaspoon to 4 oz of alcohol.
Problem is the actual wood on the car isn’t going to the darker tone but rather it’s more yellow. I like the general look but..too yellow.
Which tint would you recommend to add to the Honey Maple to bring it to a more warm brownish tone.
Thanks!
NOTE: This photo taken under LED overhead lighting shows it to be much more yellow than it is.
Replies
Is there any finish on there, or is it just raw wood with the dye on it?
Raw wood with dye. Darker now after several coats and an increase in the tint ratio but still to the yellow.
I haven't uses varnish on anything for ages. Does it impart any sort of darkening to the finish?
I have stained over top of things I dyed to get the color I need, a little test board and I think you will be able to get what you want
I would start by adding one drop of one of the dark brown colors to your 4 oz mix. By doing that, you are actually adding orange and black (brown)(and orange is a mix of yellow and red). Since the brown has some black in it (it is really just a dark orange) that will tend to tone down the brightness of the yellow.
Start with the smallest amount you can and keep careful notes of how many drops you use of each and then test it on the same wood as you have been doing. Then you will need to scale up the mix to get enough for the finished job.
Obviously, since it doesn't look as dark on the original wood as it does on your sample, you will need to make darker. I might have suggested that the original wood needs more sanding, but it looks like it is going on evenly. I think it is probably just the difference between the old and new wood.
Also, keep in mind that the dye will look somewhat different when you have the final clear coat on it. Be sure your experiments include a couple of coats of the same finish material you intend for finally use.
Thanks! Good advice.
The wood is new but had a couple applications of "Danish Oil" I sanded it down to the point where my paper was no longer loading up but rather creating dust. I'm happy with the way it's going on...just want to tone it down. Now I just have to find Dark Brown in a 2oz. All they seem to have on their site is 8 oz and above.
Try Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/TransTint-Dyes-Dark-Mission-Brown/dp/B001DT16VO/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2ZQGV1WJ7H2H5&keywords=transtint%2Bdark%2Bmission%2Bbrown&qid=1647358168&sprefix=transtint%2Bdark%2Bmission%2Bbrown%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-2&th=1
Also Homestead Finishing Products:
https://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/transtint-2-oz-store/
Thanks - I couldn't find the 2oz section on their site so I needed this!
To whatever your darkening mix is, you could add a tiny bit of Transtint blue. Blue is the compliment of yellow and will neutralize the yellow generally speaking in varying degrees. This depending on the amount/hue.
Interesting thought. I'm trying to avoid acquiring a collection of tints when this is my only job for them. I have a dark brown coming which is what they recommended. If that needs more I'll try the blue.
Thanks!
Good luck...understand about not wanting a "Transtint collection" HA...but boy that car is sure worth it!! I found this doing quick search just now...blue yellow neutralization...you'll get the gist.
Hmm - there's no link in your post
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8ZDL7X24Cc
user-7627473 has my answer. Ash and Honey Amber are both yellow spectrum so you are dealing with a sort of red-green combination. Blue will push you away from the yellow hue.
As to test board and actual boards being different, that comes down to different prep. Your test board may not have had the "life experiences" (the danish oil treatment, air exposure, whatever) of your actual materiel. Preparing test boards exactly like the target material seems like a pain until the result is a surprise ;-)
Yes I suppose that's true. What do you think about Homestead's suggestion to use a dark brown to cut the yellow?
Adding blue to the yellow will shift it toward grey. You don't want grey you want to shift it more toward brown. You can do that by using combinations of red green and blue, but why not save some trouble and just use a little dark brown.
In the end, we can explain using words all day, but to get the final answer, you need to do your own experimenting. I have found that it helps to have some primary colors (red, blue, yellow, along with some green and black) on hand. But if this is a one off job for you, you may not want to go that far.
A color wheel like the one in the video above can be helpful in visualizing the results of different mixes. I think you can buy paper versions.
Indeed. I'd have a rack of tints that will never be used again!
Thanks!
Just a note from having produced color wheels by the dozens - and also produced neutrals from adding one compliment to another by the dozens as well - adding blue to yellow does NOT defacto produce gray. Hardly ever, especially in translucent colors. It most often produces a dullish brown shade, or hue. You would have to work really really hard to come up with a gray and that would only be with opaque colors.
Having said all of the above, once you get your dark brown, you might mix a very small amount with water for a dilute solution and try that alone. Add another drop if not dark enough. You might find that it gives the final color you want. Remember that the wood alone has a yellowish tint naturally.
Water mix over alcohol mix is acceptable?
Once the previous dye is dry, yes.
Either works. I like to use water because it dries slower and I can blend large surfaces better. But, it does tend to raise the wood grain. Alcohol dries faster and does not raise the grain, but if you need to blend a previous application with a new one, it tends to leave edges rather than a smooth blend. If I use alcohol, I usually try to spray it. Which ever works best in your application.
I would test it on a non conspicuous area of you car. Since you have had danish oil on it, the water may not penetrate well.
It's really hard to avoid lapmarks with alcohol based dye.
I've found that a rag works better than a brush for application and that is a lap mark occurs I can work it out rubbing in a thin application
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