Replies

1. 
   migraine | Apr 25, 2003 07:26am | #1

   If the cabinets are Kraftmaid or another production company, then I'm not sure.  But if the finish is traditional lacquer, you can apply a glaze that has some added colorant to it and re-top coat after. 

1. 
   RichL104 | May 04, 2003 07:17am | #2

   Thanks Migraine,

   I'm hoping that enough of my wife's friends tell her "Wow... I never would've noticed..." and I won't have to do anything!

   But, I think I found a product that'll work. Miniwax has a "stain-poly" combo out. I figured that I'd sand a leftover ripping from a filler, and see how the finish looks, how the color matches, and how many coats it'll take.

   If I "must" do it I figured a little 220 sanding and one or two coats should do it. But, I am putting this task at the bottom of a list of things that need to be done around the house first!!!!

   ThanksYou're Dr. Galikowitz? .....  YES I AM...

1. 
   Clay | May 04, 2003 05:40pm | #3

   I do this type of finish adjustment all of the time.  I never strip the old finish.  Your existing finish is most likely CV (conversion varnish) or catalyzed lacquer.  Either way it is as solid and durable a primer as you could hope for.  These are a bit slippery to adhere to so make sure that the surfaces are very clean before recoating.  I like to scuff sand lightly, but sometimes skip this step because of time pressures.  I always use Paso (liquid sander) to clean and soften the finish before I coat over it.  I often use a mix of Minwax Polyurethane with artist's alkyd oil paint added for pigment and a tiny bit of refined linseed oil (1:100 maximum) and a little thinner (VM & P Naptha is my favorite).  I rub this finish out by hand till it starts getting tacky and takes on a very evenly colored look.  That is all that is neccessary but additional coats for color are sometimes needed and a wear coat of clear is a deluxe treatment.

1. 
   RichL104 | May 05, 2003 04:46pm | #4

   Clay,

   Thanks very much. It does sound like you do this all the time! I'll have to break out my old junior chemistry set... and hopefully won't blow up the house!

   I printed this message out, and plan to use it as a shopping list and an instructional.

   Thanks againYou're Dr. Galikowitz? .....  YES I AM...

1. 
   Clay | May 05, 2003 05:30pm | #5

   For a more "red-brown" tint I would guess (without seeing the colors in detail) that burnt sienna would be very useful.  It has fiery reddish undertones.  Burnt umber may be needed too for darkening and raw umber is sometimes useful because of its greenish tinge to counter excess red in the tint.  To mix colors from the tube it is helpful to have a pretty stiff hog bristle brush.  A large sized artist's flat is what I usually use.  Break the worms of oil paint up into a slurry with a small amount of varnish in a small mixing container before adding them to a larger amount of clear finish (this makes it easier to get all of the lumps squished out).  You'll be surprised at the small amount of finish needed.  This goes on rather thinly so the tint should be strong and you don't need a lot.  Two or three tablespoons of varnish should do the job for each cabinet.  Try it on a small area to test the look and wipe it off right away with a thinner dampened rag if you need to make adjustments.  It is better to go light and do another coat than to get it too dark but usually you can make a pretty accurate adjustment when the shades are quite close to begin with.