Replies

1. 
   steveworks | Apr 02, 2003 03:04pm | #1

   OK it’s early in the morning, I meant dado!

2. 
   RANGERP75R | Apr 02, 2003 06:22pm | #2

   steveworks

      I use the Freud Super. I think that is the 508?? I'm very happy with the results. I have only read about the Forrest and that was all good. I cannot make the comparison, though.

   Good luck with your purchase...

   sarge..jt

3. 
   forestgirl | Apr 02, 2003 06:32pm | #3

   IMO, the Freud will give you at least equal performance to the Forrest and save you some money.  I have several Freud blades and their 6" safety dado.  Love 'em all, and don't see how the cuts could be any better.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   steveworks | Apr 02, 2003 08:41pm | #4

   Thanks

1. 
   KevinLBS | Apr 02, 2003 09:57pm | #5

   Steve-

   I've never even touched the Forrest Dado blade, but I can say that I looove my Freud 8" Dado blade... Even on walnut VC plywood it cut smooth and clean, though I've never cut melamine on it. Then again I've never cut melamine on my Table saw at all...

   Having used Forrest's woodworker II for the past year, I have no doubt their dado would work just as immaculately.

   Choose based on whatever carrying case you like... It's like, "Should I get the Benz or the BMW?". They're both great and leaders at what they make; either one you pick will make you happy.

   Kevin

4. 
   creekwood | Apr 02, 2003 10:02pm | #6

   steveworks, I have the Forrest. I would never trade it. But I can't compare it to the Frued, as I've never used it. I have a Frued cutoff blade, and am pleased with it, but all my other blades are Forrest, and I will not switch.

5. 
   jackiechan | Apr 03, 2003 06:17am | #7

   Steve,

   Another consideration - I use the Systi Matic1755S Super-Fine 8" Dado (42 Teeth - carbide) for the custom furniture that I design and fabricate.  It performs flawlessly, and produces absolutely smooth, flat bottomed dado cuts.  I use this set up on (predominantly) hardwoods, but will also use it on cabinet grade hardwood plywood, and occasionally melamine.  There is no chip/blow out, feathering, on any of the materials being cut (including the melamine). 

   To assist in making the best possible cuts, I utilize a series of shop-made, zero clearance table inserts. 

   Keep the blades well cleaned, and be sure to space your shims evenly between each blade - in other words, (example) don't stack 3/16" all in one place!

   The Systi Matic 1755S is $250 (w/ free shipping) on Amazon.com

   Please feel free to send me any questions that you may have.

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

1. 
   steveworks | Apr 03, 2003 06:57am | #8

   Thanks for your suggestion. I actually bought the Freud blades earlier today on Amazon. If I may ask a different question. Although I hate using it, what do you suggest using to cut Melamine? I’ve tried the cross-cut and plywood blades from Freud and I get a mess of chip out . Also I’m sure the stuff chews up the blades big time. Ohm and it tastes yummy also :) Thank goodness for dust masks.

   STeve

1. 
   jackiechan | Apr 03, 2003 08:35am | #9

   Steve,

   I use a Forrest WW2 with a zero clearance table saw insert.  Although there are blades on the market specifically designed to cut melamine and laminates, I get ultra clean cuts with my WW2 (making sure that it is pitch and resin free before cutting). 

   A zero clearance table insert should be used no matter what blade you choose - without it the chance of chip/blowout greatly increases.  The blade must be sharp and clean.  If for some reason you're still running into trouble, another trick that works, especially with plywood, is to run a length of blue painter's masking tape over the line that the saw will be cutting on.  (So that the taped side of the material is face down on the table saw.)  For the ultimate precision, run a length of tape parallel to the tape being cut - this keeps the work piece running perfectly flat to the table.

   My FWW2's haven't been adversely effected at all when cutting melamine.  Have you made your own table saw inserts before?  (... no sense in buying one when it can be made for free using scrap wood)  If not, let me know, and I'll give you the details on how to build a variety of different ones.

   I have every form of table saw dust collection running each time I use the saw, especially when cutting melamine.  I'm considering installing the emergency drop down oxygen masks found on airplanes in my saw room!  (Just kidding!)  (My  3M 7500 P100 respirator, 4" dust collection on the cabinet saw, plus dust collection in the over-arm blade guard, and an air scrubber to top it all off, keeps the dust out of my lungs and shop!)

   Let me know if I can help.

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

2. 
   forestgirl | Apr 03, 2003 07:42pm | #10

   As mentioned above, you definitely need a zero-clearance insert.  With regard to the other blades you tried, which specific models are they?  You should get good results from an 80-tooth blade.  The TK806 (80-tooth, flat-top grind) should do a good job well, if you're using the zc insert.  The LU98 (80-tooth, triple chip) looks like it's the ultimate blade for melamine.  forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)