Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Feb 11, 2007 03:32am | #1

   Welcome to Knots, Sparky. Framing squares are notorious for getting/being out of square. It's also important that you check your other squares, have a straight edge on the board to go against the fence, mark that edge to reference from with the square. Unless the board has been ripped so the edges are parallel, you can't just flip it over. A straight edge that fits across the fence without gaps doesn't lie. It sounds to me like you have a dull blade that may be running. Chopping down into thick hard maple will put most blades to the test. If you are carefully checking the fence to blade with an accurate square, that should be all that's necessary. If that checks out and your cuts are off, it's the blade. This assumes the saw is in good condition, no worn bearings, loose mechanisms, debris under the collar, blade on backwards, wrong blade, bent blade, sliver caught in blade guard, functioning blade guard, pivot locked, etc.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

2. 
   fussy | Feb 11, 2007 03:46am | #2

   Sparky,

   Everything hammer said is right on.  the only thing I can add is this:  If you're cutting close to the edge instead of farther in on the board, the blade will take the path of least resistance and wander off.  If this is the case, clamp a backup board hard by the end you're cutting.  The other thing, watch how you address the saw ( I ALWAYS call mine SIR).  By that I mean that in a cut in a big piece of hard wood, are you unconsciously adding "body english" and forcing the saw to the side enough to cause your problem?  I had the same problem you were having.  Out of the blue.  Turns out that was what I was doing.  Hope this helps.

   Steve

3. 
   mike4244 | Feb 11, 2007 06:39pm | #3

   The stock is not the same width from one end to the other.Say one end is 5 1/2" and the other end is 5 7/16".When you check for square from the side that is up against the fence it will be square.When you check from the far side it will be out.

   Make sure the stock is paralell in width.

   mike

1. 
   user-172496 | Feb 14, 2007 05:25am | #12

   Hey Mike4244 !!!

                             You and Hammer were right !!

   You with the lumber not being square, and Hammer about the straight edge never being wrong. I just assumed it was square.

   Thanks to the both of and all the other who answered my call for help.

   Jack

4. 
   forestgirl | Feb 11, 2007 09:17pm | #4

   "I turned it up side down and again pushed it up against the fence & the blade, now it fit tight against the fence, but I measured 1/8" gap between the stock & the blade."   If the stock is milled correctly (e.g., not the problem Mike mentioned) it sounds like the blade is not 90° to the table.  Tuning a saw with a square is just the beginning.  The proof of the pudding is in test cuts that you make to verify squareness and adjust if necessary.  You might find the following thread, with pictures of test cuts, helpful:

   http://www.woodworking.org/InfoExchange/viewtopic.php?t=11978

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/11/2007 1:18 pm by forestgirl

1. 
   Patto | Feb 12, 2007 07:26am | #5

   Hi all,

   A little bit off target, but I might have an excuse to buy a SCMS this year, whats the view on the sliding version of these saws? They didnt get a mention in the last time FWW did a review of such things, and most of the ones reviewed do not feature in Australian tools shops.

   Thanks in advance

   PS, the task for the excuse is a fair bit of timber shelving installed into the local youth music society to store instruments, music and amps etc. But I would want it suitable for accurate cuts on solid timber installs at home. Dont need to lug it about all the time because I rarely do any work away from home.

   For those that do site work, am I better just getting a circular saw?

   dave

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 12, 2007 08:53am | #6

   I'm not so lucky as to have a sliding miter saw, but from what I've read here they've gotten much more accurate over the years, and the better ones cut quite nicely.  I'd think they'd be the cat's meow for cutting shelving.  Not sure exactly what you mean by "solid timber"......timber brings images of large, rough squares just out of the tree, LOL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   Patto | Feb 13, 2007 12:25am | #7

   Thanks,

   My little brother has a light green one he picked up as payment for work from a broke builder, works pretty well but he hammers tools.

   Selection for the dewalt so far - it just looks more robust than the competitors it sits beside on the shelves. It is certainly more expensive but not sure of the value.

   Dave

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 13, 2007 01:48am | #8

   Dave, before you pull the trigger on the DeWalt, take a look at the Bosch and maybe do some research.  I'm not saying their slider is better, but based on the quality of their regular 12" CMS, I'd say it's certainly worth looking at!  I felt I got more for my money with the Bosch CMS.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

5. 
   brad805 | Feb 13, 2007 09:02am | #9

   if you are using the same edge always to check square and the edge is accuately jointed, the stock milling is prob not be the issue.  I highly doubt you can set the saw accurately with the square against however many teeth it hits.  For framing house works fine, but if you want all those pieces to fit squarely for woodworking, not likely going to work.  Blades will flex and your vision of small gaps comes into play.  Trial and error is the only way.  I spent probably an hour or two messing with my saw to get it accurate (its a bosch).  Set, test, check.  Repeat as necessary to get it to the accuracy you want.  It takes a lot of patience and careful checking of the fence and stock to get it right.  Just remember you only have to do this once.  DeWalt makes great products, so I doubt there is excess play in the 0/45/90... stop locks. 

6. 
   InMyOpinion | Feb 13, 2007 09:25am | #10

   Have you considered the problem to be that of the board vs. the saw?

   All four corners have to be exact. Measuring a constant width, for example, does not assure that the two edges are exactly perpendicular to a third edge. Once you turn the board over you expose the problem(s). (However, if you don't turn the board, you could easily make one bad cut after another without knowing it until assembly.)

   You'll want to true the board with another saw you know is perfectly aligned. Then you'll know whether the miter saw is aligned upon returning the board to that miter saw. If you have no such perfect saw, mark up the board, and cut on the lines made with your square.

   jc

7. 
   Al from Unionville | Feb 13, 2007 04:20pm | #11

   Sparky, have you verified that the board is not creeping as it is being cut. I have found this to be a problem occassionally when cutting a piece that is thich and hard. Beofre you bang your fence up you might want to clamp the board ot the fence and cut.