I’ve been to my local hardware store and they have BullsEye shelac but no where on the can does it say de-waxed. Is this a manual process I have to do through straining or can I buy shelac that is already de-waxed? If I can buy it, what is a good brand? If I cant buy it, how do I make my own?
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Zinnser makes a dewaxed "Seal Coat" shellac that may be available locally. It's a fairly thin shellac, a 2 lb. cut, that can be used as a sealer/washcoat (I'm guessing that's why you want dewaxed).
If you buy the BullsEye, you can let it sit for a while and let the wax settle to the bottom and then gently pour off the shellac leaving the wax in the can/jar. This process is easier if you put the shellac in jars first.
You can get shellac flakes from a number of suppliers and mix them with denatured alcohol. There's a variety to choose from - some with color and some without. Shellac.net is one good source.
If you mix 1 lb. of flakes with 1 gallon (or a suitable proportion, like a 1/4 lb. with 1/4 gallon) of denatured alcohol, you will get a "1 lb." cut. This makes a good sealer/washcoat. A 2 lb. cut is good for brush application when using shellac as the finish. Once mixed, the shellac has a shelf life of around six months (less in the heat). To test old shellac, place a drop on a can lid or piece of glass - it should harden in 1/2 hour or less. Only mix as much as you need. You can keep the flakes, un-mixed, in a cool, dry place and they won't go bad.
Paul
F'burg, VA
Paul, just a short addition to your fine response. A 2# cut is the cut most finishers use for brushing. A 3# cut tends to not flow out as well.
Howie;
I thought I said that - "A 2 lb. cut is good for brush application when using shellac as the finish."
Paul
F'burg, VA
question............what do you gain from dewaxing your shellac? Waxed seems to work pretty good for me.There are fast carpenters who care..... there are slow carpenters who care more.....there are half fast carpenters who could care less......
" question............what do you gain from dewaxing your shellac? Waxed seems to work pretty good for me."
"The wax reduces the transparency of the shellac on the wood. It also makes the shellac even less water-resistant, and it prevents good bonding when non-evaporative finishes (varnish, water-base, and conversion) are applied over the shellac." - from Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner.
The list of non-evaporative finishes doesn't specifically mention polyurethane because it's a type of varnish, but poly is very prone to adhesion problems when applied over shellac with wax.
Shellac is often used as a washcoat to partially seal the wood or as a barrier coat to isolate potential problems in the wood or layers of a finish. When used in this way, de-waxed shellac is generally recommended.
If you use shellac as the finish, or under N.C. lacquer, waxed shellac works fine.
For some articles on shellac, see the post "Shellac Disaster."Paul
F'burg, VA
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled