Deal on Excaliber aftermarket splitter
Went by Rockler Seattle today, just to pick up a little DC hose ($5, right?). Hmph! They had the Excaliber “Merlin” aftermarket splitter on sale for $79.99.
This splitter is not quite as slick as the Beisemeyer, which drops below the table, but it releases and comes off the mount in like two seconds, out of the way for non-through cuts and such. It’s made to accomodate thin-kerf cuts.
Looked around the web and saw it at Woodworker’s Supply for $119.99, $99.95 at NWPT. There are models to cover the Jet and Delta contractor’s saws, the Exacta, the Unisaw, a couple of Generals and the Powermatic PM66-TA(LT) (whatever that is).
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=118-952
Don’t know if Rockler’s on-line catalog has it on sale or not. If I can get it to work with my ancient, blue, Jet saw, I’ll be a happy(er) camper!
forestgirl — you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can’t take the forest out of the girl 😉
Replies
Forestgirl,
Thanks for your post. I was looking for a splitter only for my Grizzley 1023ZX and wondering if the Biesemeyer or Delta would fit but didn't want to lay out $120.
However, after seeing the Merlin splitter, it looks I could just remove the guard from my splitter and have the same thing. Maybe some locktite and fine adjusting of the nuts ( maybe epoxy washers to the nuts) on the brackets that hold the splitter/guard assembly and I think I could have the same thing.
Maybe your "Old Blue" could be modified as well!
John
John, I'm not sure from reading your message that you're understanding the Merlin splitter's charm. It has a "click and release" feature that enables you to remove the splitter from the saw when needed (for instance, when making dadoes). One of the primary reason many WWers don't use a splitter is the difficulty in removing and re-installing them when it's necessary. Just recently, 2 (I think) saws have come on the market with quick-release splitter/guard assemblies.
The Merlin snaps off with a quick click and pull. The Beisemeyer drops below the throat plate, even slicker but they don't make one for my saw.
You've hit on the disadvantage -- the lack of a blade guard. I think the Merlin was designed to be used with the Excaliber overhead blade cover. I'll have to make a guard to solve this problem. As far as the Griz goes, if your splitter/guard bracket goes into the throat and then back to the trunnion, it's pretty difficult to make it a quick release item.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Watkinsjd,
That is what I did on my griz 1023s. I removed the plastic and slide the splitter between the first washer and trunnion (?) and tighten with a wrench. Yes, it is only connected at the one point but I think it is strong enough to do the intended job and it is a snap to do...I can flip it on and off in about 30 sec. Maybe I could replace the nut with something that would make the wrench unnecessary...but don't need it that easy
BG, that is what I have in mind. I want to replace the blade guard with an overhead mounted unit, no matter what, but I do not want to eliminate the splitter/kickback pawl device.
I understood the function of the Excaliber, Forest Girl, but couldn't clearly express my idea. Instead of a click on/off connection I think a quick twist of the wrench can do the trick when necessary to make the change and save the $79.99. This is based on the design of the Griz 1023 guard/splitter which is virtually identical to the current Delta and Jet units.
It seems that a common characteristic of woodworkers its that we love to save a buck by finding a different way to do something, especially if we can make it ourselves. For myself, I just cheap! :=)
BTW, just added the nickname of DR WATSON to WATKINSJD profile so don't be confused.
John
That'd be great if you could make your own. I don't "do metal" yet.<g> Actually, now that I've gotten the new splitter mounted, I can see where I could have gotten the old one mounted much better than it was, but I still would have had headaches getting it in and out, and also that old splitter was too fat for thin kerf blades.
I envy you the 1023S -- nice saw, eh??forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Dr. Watson,
Yes, we should be able to put on our credit card all the money we didn't spend because of our fabulous ingenuity....lol...I'm sure our spouces would stop giving us that look then...
I discovered a little adjustment still to be made last night. Because I had to shim the interior mounting bracket out (away from the trunnion) in order to make it fit a saw it wasn't made for, I've lost abut 3/4" of useable height from my sawblade (the teeth encounter the bracket on the way up).
However, the parts I was needing to clear by placing the shims (washers) have a little extra clearance now, so I think I can redo the mount and get all my blade height back. Definitely don't want to forget and have a carbide/stainless collision under there.
Made several cuts in MDO panels (one was 2' x 6") last night, lots of jostling around -- would have throw the old splitter out of whack. Then ripped a 6' piece of 4/4 red oak. The splitter was still in exactly the right alignment and I got the best rip ever off the ol' blue dinosaur.
Time to total up the bill for the saw:
Saw -- Free
Motor -- $175
Alignment by pro, threw in Cast Iron wings -- $85 or $90
Removable splitter -- $80
Blade guard TBA -- home-made from materials on hand
Total: $345 (vs. $799 delivered new). Not too bad, and I've learned alot too!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Got the splitter installed tonight and it works great. Of course the instructions say, first and foremost, "Don't use this on a saw for which it was not designed" or some such thing. Hah! Just watch me. A shim here, a shim there, a spacer here, tighten this, tighten that, and line that baby up!
May seem silly over-exhilaration, but splitter problems have caused me no end of headaches when it comes to ripping wood, cutting plywood, etc., and I'm always working around dados because I didn't want to take the splitter off.
My thin-kerf kerfs slide right past the thin splitter. It has double-pawls for anti-kickback, the better to handle different thicknesses of wood. Oooops, just turned to June 14th, gotta go to sleep. Up tomorrow and make a Z-clearance plate for the new thin-kerf blade. See y'all.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
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