Most of my power tools are more than 10 years old, up to 30+ for some of them. A number have degraded power cords, especially where the cords emerges from the body of the tool or at the end of any strain relief present. Some have degraded by the outside sheath cracking all over the cords – especially some recent (10 years or so) DeWalt tools like the 5″ ROS and the 4 1/2 inch sidewinder.
I just “fixed” the 30 year old sears hand circular saw by moving the cord another 1″ into the hole on the handle. The rest of the cord is OK. I also fixed the makita recip saw by winding lots of electrical tape around the end of the strain relief and the cord to fix the cracks. Hokey, but I needed to use the saw.
Are there universal cords and strain reliefs? Do we have to buy the company part – the one that failed so quickly in the first place? (Hear that DeWalt?) What do others do?
Replies
Those tools were never expected to last that long, that they have is a testament to your care of the tool or a lack of use and exposure. The plastisizers in the materials degrade over time and is part of the normal maintenance of the tool. Even the old cloth covered cords deteriorated as I'm sure others will attest. Wrapping tape around a cracked cord is less than ideal as is cutting off the obviously bad part for the reason that the inner insulating material is also degrading, albeit at possibly slower rate. 10 years is not a bad life span for a power tool cord considering what it is expected to do.
You can buy good quality cord and good quality plugs at most reputable electrical suppliers. The molded strain reliefs are tougher to find generic equivalents for. I would recommend ordering that part from the manufacturer if possible. If no longer available you will have to use your wits.
In short I would say you got your moneys worth, replace the cords from end to end, good cord is not that expensive.
i found that alot of the strain reliefs actually are able to seperate from te cord once you remove it from the tool.
Tmaxxx
Urban Workshop Ltd
Vancouver B.C.
cheers. Ill buy.
T mike, Remember, when replacing any old power tool having grounded (Three wire) plugs to connect the line and neutral wires correctly also the green grounding wire. It is quite possible to rewire these tools wrongly, and STILL have the tool work BUT not safely.
Except for newer double insulated (two wired) tools, which still calls for the plug to be a 'polarized'type, any older two wire metal housed power tool definitely needs the additional green grounding wire.
Years ago, our town's fire department would lend our their electric water pumps to home owners to drain their swimming pools. One poor neighbor of mine was electrocuted in front of his whole family pumping while standing in the half drained pool not using the proper grounding wire supplied..or connected. Steinmetz.
Edited 6/27/2006 2:17 am ET by Steinmetz
Pay attention to Steinmetz -- & to me. I bought a house with a large workshop already wired -- by an engineer!!! Nice mechanical installatiom in conduit. One problem was that neutral & hot were reversed in several sockets. In addition to getting it right wiring your tools & extension cords, check the sockets in your shop. I have a very simple inexpensive tester with 3 lights that just plugs into a receptacle. I feel safer now.Cadiddlehopper
I'm of the opinion that you can tell the overall quality and durability of a tool by it's cord. This is one area where manufacturers can save a lot of money. I love the ones that are about 6" long, you need an extension cord just to plug them in. Many owners kill their cords by wrapping them around the tool when put in storage. The first wrap they make usually bends the strain relief in half, it doesn't take long before they are cracked.
For those of us in the business, OSHA does not want to see taped cords, added on plugs or homemade extensions, especially the four gang metal boxes that many of us used to make. These things have the potential for causing electrical shock which can result in death. Skirting safe practices because you want to get the job done is a very bad policy and usually a good way to get hurt. Cut off some fingers or put out an eye and we'll talk about it, get juiced and it's over.
Cords and the fittings are designed specifically for the tool. The wire gauge and the terminals are sized for the use. I buy longer cords from the tool repair shop, most of my portable tools have 12' cords and they are worth every penny. Find a good local repair shop, take your tool in and part with the $30 or more it will cost. You may cry that day but you will be smiling the rest of the time. If they tell you it's time to retire that old machine, listen.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
"or homemade extensions, especially the four gang metal boxes that many of us used to make. " Hammer, what is that exactly? Like a 1-plug outlet at the end of a long cord? Just want to make sure I don't have one rattling around in a junk-box somewhere. Back in my auction-going days, I used to pick up all kinds of homemade stuff, and not all of it has been sorted out.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
"or homemade extensions, especially the four gang metal boxes that many of us used to make. " Hammer, what is that exactly?
I think he's referring to the home-brew "extension cords", made by contractors, you commonly see on job sites: a flexible cord running to a 4"x4" metal J-box, with two duplex receptacles mounted in it.
OSHA doesn't like it because it is not compliant with the NEC. The 2005 NEC allows you to construct field-assembled extension cords, but they must be: 1.) used on maximum 20A circuits, and 2.) assembled from "listed" components. The metal J-boxes and receptacles are not UL listed for use in an extension cord, and it is thus a violation of the NEC to construct an extension cord with them.
Here is a good example of a "Widowmaker". Like Barry O said, very common with contractors. We used to think they were high class but use takes it's toll. There are plenty of places for the box to become charged. Another common thing to watch for are three prong plugs without the third prong. The two straight blades are the same size which allows you to plug into a receptacle, reversing polarity. Not to mention the loss of the ground.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Oh, yeah, I've seen those in various basements. I have one home-made box, but it's wood, not metal, and designed to be mounted to something. Have never used it though. Thanks.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I usually buy a 25 ft. extension cord of the appropiate wire size and use 10-12 ft. of the plug end to replace the cord. Adding a plug to the remaining end gives me a "bonus" short extension cord. Art
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