Delta Contractors Saw convert to 220V
Hi All,
I just changed my Delta Contractors Saw 1 1/2 HP motor over to 220v. Mostly because I’m lacking outlets in my garage and now I can dedicate the dryer feed to the TS.
I used a 12ga 50 foot cord. I used a good extention cord and clipped the male end and put on a 220 male plug. I left the female end “monkey face” and just plug in the the TS with the same cord it came with. I then marked clearly on both cords “220v” all over them and the saw so it won’t get confusing.
Now that I did it the saw starts and runs but takes a second or 2 longer to get up to speed. Is this normal?
I’m 100% positive I’ve rewired correctly-as the plate on the motor says.
Also what are the benifits of going 220? As I said I did it for convenience but imagine ther may be some benefits as well.
Thanks,
W
Replies
First, the use of a "cheater" cord (240V plug on one end, 120V receptacle on the other) is very inadvisable. Sorry if this sounds harsh, but spend the 10 bucks and get the correct 240V connectors.
To answer the rest of your questions, rewiring for 240V should produce a slight increase in performance. The saw draws half as much current at 240V, which means less voltage drop in the supply wiring, which means more power available to the motor. The improvement is most noticeable under heavy load, and when the motor is coming up to speed (it should be faster, not slower).
The fact that your saw is starting up slower is not normal. My thoughts are that the 50' extension could be producing excessive voltage drop, or that there could be a bad connection somewhere. The first step in troubleshooting would be to measure the operationg voltage at the saw plug, and make sure it's getting a solid 240V.
"First, the use of a "cheater" cord (240V plug on one end, 120V receptacle on the other) is very inadvisable. "Why is it inadvisable? I left it because it's a contractors saw and gets taken to sites that have no 220 or not the same hook up and now I can still quickly rewire the motor and go 110v. The connection itself should be ok for voltage/amperage..right? Believe me it's labeled very clearly and I'm the only user/set-up master of the saw. The manual says for 50 feet of cord I can use 14ga and says 12ga is ok for 100 feet. My set-up is a good 30 feet from the outlet so maybe if I shorten it or infact go to 10ga. Deltas sale to B&D has screwed up customer service. Long phone waits and in fact "at a meeting" message yesterday. Not your dads Delta any more.Anyway I'll try a couple things and post my results.Thanks,
W
You are right that a 12 ga. cord should be adequit. Never the less, if you are having problems you should try a better cord arangment. I will not give you a hard time about the mismatched plugs, sounds like you understand the dangers. I am I remodeler and if I had to re-wire the saw every time I took it to a job site I would go nuts. I think that you should keep the saw 110 v. and pull a dedicated 20A like as close to the saw as possible. If the outlet is wired corectly (12 or 10 gauge wire) then you will get maximum performance and not have to use rigged cords or rewire the saw when you want to move it.
Good luck,
Mikeplease excuse my spelling.
I also don't like the use of a cheater cord, labels get worn or torn off, or ignored in a rush, and not everybody at job sites these days reads english, a cheater is just inviting trouble.
The saw on 110 or 220 should be starting almost instantly, taking "longer" to start just doesn't sound right. Double check your wiring, the labeling on the wires and the connection diagram are often poorly marked and confusing, on rare occasions they are just plain wrong. If the wiring seems right you may have a failing starter switch or a condenser going bad.
John W.
12 ga is not heavy enough. I regulary run a 3hp motor off of a 75' cord, but it is an 8ga cord and I do not experience any voltage drop.
As Kent said, check the voltage at the receptacle end of the cord. It sounds like you've configured the motor for 240V operation, but you may have picked up one hot and the neutral at the dryer receptacle, giving you 120V.
Voltage drop, or lack thereof, is the cause for snappier starts and higher maximum motor output. The motor's breakdown torque (the torque used for "max developed hp" on consumer air compressors, which can be 2 to almost 3 times it's rated continuous output) deteriorates with reductions in voltage, but won't deteriorate as readily when using the higher voltage. The same is true for it's locked-rotor torque (starting from a dead stop), and it's pull-up torque (the lowest torque value while it's spooling up to speed) It's all due to voltage drop in the wiring (including the transformer on the pole), nothing more.
In a nutshell, a motor will operate the same regardless of which voltage it's configured for, as long as it's getting exactly the nameplate voltage (115 or 230V, no more, no less) at the motor terminals. In the real world, 120V power is pretty flabby, and voltage is easily pulled down as current is drawn. 240V power is much stiffer, and when you switch a motor to 240V, you halve the current and double the voltage, so the percent voltage drop in the same wiring is only 1/4 of what it was at 120V. Add to that the fact that the various torque values of an induction motor drop as the square of the percent voltage drop, and you can see why a motor set up for the lower voltage can be very sensitive to wire gauge and length, but the same motor at 240V seems to outperform it in every way.
The biggest advantage of using the higher voltage, since you asked, is that the motor will run cooler when you push it hard, especially above it's rated output, and you will be able to push it harder without bogging (see the paragraph above). It has everything to do with keeping the voltage at the motor terminals as close to the nameplate voltage as possible, and that's just easier to do at the higher voltage. It won't matter much for small or lightly loaded tools, or things like fans and pumps that never work harder than the rated motor output, but saws, planers, sanders and other such things where the operator determines how hard it's worked and will routinely overwork it (how do you know how much "power" your saw has unless you work it until it runs out of steam?) will benefit from the higher voltage because the percent overcurrent compared to the nameplate current for that voltage will be lower.
In other words, if your saw motor was getting exactly 115V at the motor terminals while outputting 1.5 hp, it would draw the current shown on the nameplate for that voltage, and produce a certain amount of heat. Rewire it for the higher voltage, and give it exactly 230V at the motor terminals while it's outputting the same 1.5 hp, then it will produce the exact same amount of heat. But let the voltage sag, and the current it draws will go up, as will the heat (exponentially). The amount it will sag will be considerably less at the higher voltage, so the additional heat created will be considerably less than at the lower voltage. A 10 deg C (about 18 deg F) increase in motor operating temperature will halve the anticipated life of the winding insulation system, by the way, so it behooves you to either not overwork your motor (hard to do, since you can't tell how hard you're working it), or give it voltage as close as possible to what it was designed for.
As an aside, you'd need 6 gauge conductors to get the same percent voltage drop at 120V as you'd get with 12 gauge conductors at 240V (all other things being equal). And that's not counting the feeders, panel, and transformer on the pole, which you don't have control over. As I said before, there is minimal effect when the motor is used within it's rating, but as you start to exceed it, or you have low voltage to start with, the effects grow exponentially. The higher voltage just keeps the motor operating closer to it's design values, which is the best that it can operate. Anything less is, well, less.
Hope that's helpful.
Be seeing you...
Edited 10/21/2004 12:56 pm ET by Tom Kanzler
I see that several people beat me to this with much better explanations; thanks to Tom, I learned quite a bit from that post! But one thing puzzles me: you suggest that he might have one hot and a neutral (actually there's no "neutral" on a 220V circuit, just a ground wire) going to the motor, instead of two hots; but I've been given to understand that a motor wired for 220 won't even start if it's only getting one leg. Am I misinformed?If he's got it wired with one hot and the ground wire, that sounds kinda ddangerous to me..."Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler." A. Einstein
http://www.albionworks.net
Thanks for all the input and info.Here's what else I can add. I bought a dryer 220v male plug. It's instructions had me wire it with the neutral (white) going to the "L" shaped plug. It then said wire the "other 2 wires" to the other poles. No mention of ground or hot etc.. It's a good quality brand name plug. Now on the motor end I have it typically wired, Green to "ground" and white and black to the copper and silver screws on the plug. I have now shortened the extension to about 30 feet at 12ga. The motor starts right away-as before-but it takes 2-3 seconds to reach full speed and then runs fine.So.....?W
"Here's what else I can add. I bought a dryer 220v male plug. It's instructions had me wire it with the neutral (white) going to the "L" shaped plug. It then said wire the "other 2 wires" to the other poles. No mention of ground or hot etc.. It's a good quality brand name plug."
Wait a minute. If you wired the white (of the extension cord, I assume) to the neutral (L-shaped), and you retained the original cord and plug, then you've only got 120V going to a motor configured for 240V, and that would explain what you've observed. If you wired the "other 2 wires" to the other poles, as you said, then you've also got the equipment grounding conductor (green) wired to the frame of the motor and saw at one end, and to a hot terminal in the new plug. If that's so, then you're lucky you didn't kill yourself when you touched the saw.
The white the manufacturer is referring to is the neutral of a dryer circuit, but you're not wiring a dryer. The white in the saw cord must be wired to one of the hot terminals on the plug. The black goes to the other hot, and the L-shaped will serve as the ground and gets the green.
But it's still a bubble gum and baling wire solution. For the record, you should wire a proper circuit with 15 or 20A protection, and put a cord on the saw with a 6-15 or 6-20 (250V, 15 or 20A respectively) plug on it.
Edit: Check out the NEMA straight-blade chart in the link below. You've probably got the 10-30R 3-pole 3-wire receptacle on your wall, which is the old style for clothes dryers (the 14-30R is what's been required since the '96 Code cycle, and it has a separate neutral and ground). The L-shaped slot is grounded in the panel, and is the neutral. The other two are supposed to be hot, with 240V between them, and 120V between either of them and the neutral. There technically is no ground (that's why it doesn't say "grounding" on the chart).
http://www.leviton.com/sections/techsupp/nema.htm
Be seeing you...
Edited 10/21/2004 2:55 pm ET by Tom Kanzler
Edited 10/21/2004 2:59 pm ET by Tom Kanzler
Tom is right on... To simplify the complex ground/neutral thing you can basicly say they are the same. If you check the voltage from either of the 2 hot legs of a 220 circit to the ground you get 110. sounds like you did exactly that by conecting the white extension cord wire to the ground.
Mikeplease excuse my spelling.
OK,Thanks for the warning. I had taken the motor in to a repair center and explained the situation. They said "white to "L" other 2 to which ever-doesn't matter". The motor was switched properly and ran great on the bench at 220v. You were right on about the receptical being the 10-30R. So now..just how does one wire the saw? Seems I did this years ago with no problem. Should I wire directly to the switch?Here's photos of the switch, motor, and plug. I'm using a 3 wire extention that has back-white-green. Right now the white is wired to the "L". It already cost me $25 for the tech to bench test and will cost another $50 to wire and a couple days at the shop so I'd like to do it myself...safely.Thanks,W
The black and the white both go to the angled blades on the plug. Those are the current carrying conductors, and they go to the hot terminals. These are the conductors that carry current when the saw is running.
The green conductors are the grounds, and they are connected to the frame of the saw. They connect to the "L" shaped blade in the new plug, which goes back to the neutral/ground bus in the panel (unless it's a subpanel, in which case it goes back to the neutral bus).
I said it above, and I'll say it again. If you've got the white conductor in the cord connected to the "L" shaped blade of the plug, then one of the two current carrying conductors going into the motor (the white one) is connected to the neutral (0V), and the other one (black) is connected to one of the hot blades on the plug (120V). The equipment grounding conductor (green) is therefore connected to the other hot blade (120V)! The frame of the saw will be at 120V relative to ground, which is what you're standing on!
Look at the wiring in the switch photo. The black and the white go through the switch (is looks like a double-pole switch, which is what you need for 240V), and the greens are connected directly to the frame. You don't want those green leads connected to anything other than ground, which is what the "L" blade on the plug is connected to when it's plugged in.
You've got the motor configured for 240V operation, but it's connected to a 120V supply. Plus you're going to kill yourself or some unsuspecting person having the frame connected to a hot lead. Hire a pro if you have to.
Be seeing you...
Edited 10/21/2004 9:49 pm ET by Tom Kanzler
Now I'm really confused. Let's start at the dryer receptacle and work our way to the motor...The receptacle is wired with two hot leads (the angled slots) and one ground/neutral (the L). (Thanks to Tom for explaining why there is a neutral on a dryer circuit!) (Also for pointing out the danger of using a dryer circuit, which probably has a 30A breaker, when you want 15A protection.)Now, you need to match that with the wires coming from the motor to the plug. There should be a white and a black, or possibly a red and a black, leads coming from the motor. Those go to the angled blades on the 220V plug. There will also be a green wire at the motor, this connects to the L blade on the plug. That gives you two hot leads to the motor, providing 220V, and one ground wire.Oh, wait, you have that bogus patch-cord business. OK, the two flat prongs on the 110V plug from the motor should connect to the two angled blades on the dryer plug, and the ground prong (the round one) on the 110V plug goes to the L prong on the dryer plug.Does that clear it up any?"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler." A. Einstein
http://www.albionworks.net
You're right that there is no neutral on a pure 240V circuit, but a 3-pole dryer circuit (which is no longer allowed for new installations as of the '96 Code cycle; only 3-pole, 4-wire grounding styles are allowed now) has 2 hots and a neutral (the neutral is there for the timer, light, and motor, which are all 120V), with no ground. The dryer frame is bonded to the neutral (and the frame will wander away from zero volts to ground when the neutral is carrying current). That's why I suspected he picked up the neutral instead of the other hot. But I guess I'm wrong. I would still check the voltage, though, and check the connections in the panel. A previous owner may have monkeyed with it, and it's possible it's miswired.
It should snap to attention even faster than when it was at 120V, not slower. And with a full-load current of only 7A or so, a 12 gauge cord 100' long wouldn't have that kink of a detrimental effect (at 240V). The only wiring diagram to trust is the one inside the motor, or on the nameplate, and he says that's the one he followed. It's a simple system, so something simple has to be off.Be seeing you...
You are correct that a 220 volt circuit doesn't need or use a neutral wire, but it is possible that the wiring to the wall receptacle had a neutral wire in addition to the two hot leads.
This would allow 110 or 220 volts, or both, depending on the receptacle configuration to be supplied. If the receptacle that was supposed to be 220 volts were incorrectly wired with the neutral and one of the hot leads the voltage supplied would be 110 volts without using the ground wire.
John W.
>>The biggest advantage of using the higher voltage, since you asked, is that the motor will run cooler when you push it hard, especially above it's rated output, and you will be able to push it harder without bogging (see the paragraph above)I'm not sure that's correct for a standard dual voltage motor. All dual voltage 120/240 motors run on 120 volts internally. There are two coils each running 120 volts and using 1/2 the 120 volt amperage (The coils act as a resistance and split the amperage). All you do when you re-wire the motor to run on 240 is change the wiring connecting the coils from parallel to series. When wired for 240 volt operation, one 120 volt leg and its associated amperage is routed to each individual coil rather than a single 120 volt line providing 120 volts to both coils. The same voltage and amperage runs through the individual coils no matter how it it wired. It is amperage that creates heat, and because the amperage in each coil is the same for both wiring configuations, there is no difference in the heat produced by either wiring configuation. The motor is perfectly happy with either voltage and doesn't even know you made the change.At least that is how I was taught.Howie.........
"All dual voltage 120/240 motors run on 120 volts internally. There are two coils each running 120 volts and using 1/2 the 120 volt amperage (The coils act as a resistance and split the amperage). All you do when you re-wire the motor to run on 240 is change the wiring connecting the coils from parallel to series. When wired for 240 volt operation, one 120 volt leg and its associated amperage is routed to each individual coil rather than a single 120 volt line providing 120 volts to both coils. The same voltage and amperage runs through the individual coils no matter how it it wired. It is amperage that creates heat, and because the amperage in each coil is the same for both wiring configuations, there is no difference in the heat produced by either wiring configuation. The motor is perfectly happy with either voltage and doesn't even know you made the change."
That's all true as far as it goes. If the voltage is held to precisely what the motor was designed for, the nameplate voltage (115V and 230V, if it's built to NEMA specs), then each of the two run windings will see the same voltage (115V) and current (7A) using made-up nameplate data of 7A at 230V and 14A at 115V.
But when a motor is given a constant torque load (constant hp, using a water brake, eddy current brake, or some other means of resisting the shaft rotation in a laboratory setting), and the voltage is reduced, the motor will draw more current. Regardless of which way it's configured, as the voltage is reduced, the current draw will increase. If you reduce the voltage by 20%, then the voltage in each winding will decrease by 20%, regardless of how it's configured. The current will increase by about 20% (or more; there is not exactly a 1:1 correlation, since efficiency and power factor will both decrease as voltage drops). So in either configuration, the result at each winding is the same, and with the increase in current through each winding, heating is also increased (exponentially).
But the difference is that 120V power is not as stiff as 240V power, especially when using the same gauge conductors for both cases. Configured for 120V operation, the motor in the example draws 14A at full load. With 100 ft of 12 gauge house wiring, you have 200 ft of conductors (out and back) at 2 ohms per 1000 ft, or 0.4 ohms. At 14A, that's 5.6V dropped from 120V, or 4.7%. Using the same 12 gauge conductors, but 240V supply, you have 7A full-load, and 2.8V dropped from 240V, or 1.17%, which is 1/4 of the voltage drop as in the 120V case.
Startup is worse, of course, with current at 120V nearing 100A. Using 80A as a locked-rotor current, at 120V you get 26.7% voltage drop, but at 240V, you get 6.7%.
Now here's the kicker, which is never mentioned in these discussions. The max torque an induction motor will output, called the breakdown torque, will drop as the square of the percent voltage drop. So in other words, the "max developed hp" that an induction motor will output, which is normally between 200% and 300% of the full-load rated (continuous) power, drops like a stone as the voltage is pulled down. At 120V, assuming 30A at "max developed hp" output, the voltage drop is about 12V or 10%, giving a reduction from max torque to .90^2=81%. At 240V and 2.5% voltage drop (same motor, same output power, same wiring, higher voltage, lower percent voltage drop), the max developed power is only dropped to 95%.
Locked-rotor torque (starting torque) drops just like breakdown torque. Using 80A at 120V, and 26.7% voltage drop, locked-rotor torque drops to 54% of what it would be with no voltage drop at all. With 40A at 240V, and 6.7% voltage drop, locked-rotor torque drops to 87% of what it would be with no voltage drop at all.
Pull-out torque, the lowest torque value of an induction motor as it's spooling up to speed, is similarly reduced with reductions in voltage.
To make matters worse, I've only used a 100 ft run of 12 gauge cable in the example, but there are other elements that cause voltage drop in the supply, like the feeders coming into the house, and the transformer on the pole, and the 14 gauge power cord that came with the saw. The no-load voltage the power company supplies you with may be a little low to start with. The further below the nameplate voltage you get, the more current the motor will draw, and the more heat it will generate for a given output power.
If the motor only works at or below its rated power, and you wire it with conductors sized for that current value, and the run isn't excessive, then voltage drop and subsequent heating usually isn't a problem at either voltage. But when you push it beyond it's rated power (nobody with a contractor saw or bandsaw doing resaw work ever does that, of course), the effects begin to snowball, and much more steeply at the lower voltage. But if you use long extension cords on your contractor saw at 120V, you may not even reach rated power, and you'll be drawing excessive current (and excessive heating) long before you get to the point of bogging. At the higher voltage, long cords have much less of an effect.
It's not that 240V power is "better" per se, it's just that a motor will operate at it's very best at precisely it's rated voltage (measured at the motor terminals), either voltage - doesn't matter, but using the higher voltage will allow it to remain closer to that voltage while being worked, and especially started or overworked (starting is just an extreme overload to the motor).
That's the best explanation I can muster for the very real phenomena everyone notices when reconfiguring for the higher voltage. Hope it makes sense.
Be seeing you...
Edited 10/22/2004 9:16 am ET by Tom Kanzler
Thanks guys,I'm gonna sleep on all this and try again tomorrow.W
OK, so I finally got off my LDA and rewired my Delta Contractor for 240 Volts. It still cuts ;-)
I do have a question however, given my rudimentary knowledge of the subject. The plate on the motor indicates 1.5 - 2 hp, and 12.8 - 8.6 amps. I've read thru this thread, and maybe I missed it but... On the face of it, changing from 120 to 240 should halve the amps from 12.8 to 6.4. So, somehow this motor draws more at 240, and therefore allegedly produces more hp?
As a follow-on question, the rated current seems to be on the lower side for the claimed hp, can someone enlighten me on this aspect as well?
Thank you!
The answer is simple. It's a 2 hp motor at either voltage, but in order to get the UL listing at 120V, the current had to be 15A or less (to use a 15A plug). Induction motors draw current roughly in proportion to the load applied (starting from the no-load current, which is probably about 4 or 5 amperes at 115V), so by nameplating the motor 1.5 hp, the current associated with that output can be used. It's called derating, and it's done all the time. It doesn't violate any of the NEMA rules for rating motor output, either, since it will produce, at either voltage, what the nameplate says it will produce (continuously) without exceeding the temperature rise shown on the nameplate. If you load that motor to 2 hp at 115V, it will still not exceed the temperature rise on the nameplate, and it will be drawing twice the current shown for 230V. In case you didn't know, by the way, induction motors can output way beyond what the nameplate says they will, but with increased current draw and heating (the "max developed hp" that HO compressor makers got sued over).
There are some other clues to this, also, such as the two different "kVA Code" (or just "Code") letters. "Normal" motors have only one Code value, since they are nameplated for only one hp value. The Code letter is used to calculate the locked-rotor, or startup, current, which at 230V is exactly one-half that of the 115V case. In order for that to still work, Delta (Marathon, actually) had to use a higher letter for the lower hp. Notice that there is also a 1.15 Service Factor at 115V, and 1.0 at 230V. I also had my suspicions confirmed by Delta.
As far as the lower current for the hp issue, that motor has a run capacitor, which brings the Power Factor (PF) up to nearly 1.0, and increases the efficiency a bit, I'm sure. The current drawn calculates to A=(hp x 746)/(eff x PF x V), with efficiency and power factor probably somewhere around .80 and .98, respectively. If you work that out (use actual nameplate voltage values, not 220 or 240V), you get about 8.2A at 2 hp at 230V. The 3 hp Unisaw motor has very high PF and efficiency, and similarly only draws about 12.4A at full load. A motor without a run capacitor has a PF of around .85 +/-, and efficiency as low as around .50 for 1/4 hp, up to the high 90 for motors in the hundreds or thousands of hp.Be seeing you...
Thank you Tom!
The principal benefit of 220V is decreased amperage in the service wires. This usually only matters if your wiring is marginal to start with (mine is...). I got two benefits from rewiring my TS to 220V: motor starts faster, and lights hardly flicker at all!
If anything, you should notice that a motor starts faster at 220V, not slower. I think something is wrong with your wiring somewhere, possibly in the plugs - maybe a connection that isn't good enough so the juice isn't flowing through efficiently. The fact that it starts at all means it's wired correctly, but if it's slow-starting that suggests the electricity flow is constricted somewhere.
12 ga wire should be plenty for a short run like that, especially for 220V because the amperage is lower (wire guage is related to amps, not volts). A 1-1/2 HP motor running on 220V probably draws less than 10 amps; 12 ga wire should be good for 20 amps.
"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler." A. Einstein
http://www.albionworks.net
Tom Kanzler explained it better than I ever could. Something seems doesn't seem right- the two Delta contractor saws I've used that were switched to 220 had much snappier starts and came up to speed faster. One other benefit may be more power depending on the motor you have. Some but not all were rated 1 1/2 hp on 120v and 2 hp on 220. Check the tag on the motor. If hp isn't listed one other thing to look at is the amp rating. Normally the amp rating @ 220v is half that @120v. On these 1 1/2 -2 hp motors the amp rating @220v is more than 1/2 that @120v instead of exactly half. For my brother's saw it was like night and day, on 220v we effortlessly cut 8/4 white oak; not the case on 120v.
I own a Rockwell contractor saw. There is something special about the motor and I think Delta is still the same. These motors have an increase in hp when going from 110 to 220. I don't remember the specifics but the normal rules don't apply. You should experience a new saw that snaps to attention and out performs the previous configuration noticeably. Something is not wired correctly. This was a long time ago but I remember making a mistake with the motor re-wire even though I swore I followed the chart. If the motors are still the same you will definitely see the difference. Keep searching, you'll be happy when you straighten it out.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
BTW,It seems the delay is belt slip as much as anything. Maybe a 1/10 second delay as compared to instant on the bench.30ft of 12ga would do that I guess. Also the tech was convinced 12ga is more than ample for the motor. Several tables confirm this. Check my other post with a photo of the name plate (motor.jpg). It does indeed say the hp goes from 1.5hp to 2hp at 220v as well as amperage draw dropping to 8.6. These were the considerations when checking the specs he uses on all his motors. The tech was an old timer who does more large motors than this size so maybe his knowledge is skwed.Thanks again,W
8.2A at 240V through 30 ft of 14 gauge cord (3.2 ohms per 1000 ft, and you've got 60 ft; 30 out and 30 back) causes only 1.65V drop. That's about 0.7% voltage drop. 12 gauge cord (about 2 ohms per 1000 ft) causes 0.4% drop.
Your cord is fine. A 16 gauge cord would be fine, too.Be seeing you...
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