I am in the market for an 8″ x 6′ jointer. My first inclination was to go with the Grizzly. Has anyone had experience with the DJ-20? What is the value of having the infeed table longer than the outfeed? Any thoughts on subtle differences between 3-blade head vs. 4-blade (other than the obvious higher cuts/min.)? How do the parallelogram style table supports perform? Any benefit over gib-style? I have heard some positive comments regarding the rack-and-pinion style fence (on the DJ) vs. other center-mount fences. I am also interested in a machine that is not too noisy. A friend at work has the G0500. It seemed to make a fair amount of noise (wind noise from the cutter). Other wise, it seemed to do a good job jointing. I have an opportunity to purchase a reconditioned DJ-20 for $800 (with 6 months factory warranty). I am tempted to take it but want to be sure I am getting the better machine.
While I am concerned about the quality of the machining; the main thrust of my question has to do with the design differences between the DJ-20 and the more typical gib-style jointers (see questions above).
My primary use in the short run is making all the trim for my house. I will be jointing lots of long stock (8′) from rough lumber.
Edited 9/24/2003 9:42:16 AM ET by mlbfreestyle
Edited 9/24/2003 12:38:36 PM ET by mlbfreestyle
Replies
A few months ago I was in the same boat,wanted to move up to a bigger & better jointer,I went shopping & comparing 8" jointer I looked at the Delta's & bridgeWoods at Wilke & compared specs on SunHills & finnaly picked the Grizzly G0500 becauseIMHO it was the better buy & I liked the specs on it better than the other ones.. it has been a winner soo far.. you mentioned noise ~ all big jointers are noisy.. if you like to read a good review of the Grizz G0500 check out this web site he has a review on there..
http://sawsndust.com/ ToolDoc
Proud Member of the Delta & Klein Tradesman Club & Milwaukee HD Club & Knots Bad Boys & Girls Club..
A Non ~ Member of the Knots Bandsaw Guru Club..
Just a quick note-
I went with the Grizzly too. And now that I've used it for a while I don't really see how you could do any better- it's simply excellent. The four knives are really really nice. The tables are stress relieved so I'm not really sure how much of a difference the parallelogram style would really make.
As for the noise? I wear ear protection all the time so I'm not really sure, but givin' that it seems a lot quiter than my shaper or table saw with a zero clearance insert!
In sort I'm very happy with the Griz. Green is good.
Thanks for the input. My ancient 6" Delta runs quietly enough that I don't need hearing protection. If only I could stretch it about 30".
You say the 4 knives are really nice; (finish quality? ease of adjustment?).
I tried my jointer out last night with out my work tunes on. It is actually quite quiet. If it wasn't for the racket of the dust collection system I think I would use it sans hearing protection... if I could only figure out how to move all the dust stuff outside I would be all set!
The knives leave a really nice finish. I actually get some strong suction when I pick up a board that I've just finished face jointing off the out feed table. As for setup, well it is more of a pain because there are four knives instead of three. But with a JointerPal the job is actually surprisingly easy. I haven't needed to change the knives yet... but the whole fiddle factor with a new machine and all.
Hope that helps. Honestly when I was looking at them I don't really see how you could go wrong. It just came down to the money I couldn't see spending the extra money for a Delta that didn't really seem to offer that much more. Wish I could fast forward 5 years and tell you what I think about it then!
Do a search for this disucssion # 13963.3. Or it might link to it I'm not sure. They are talking about 12" jointers... but the 8" ones come up.
I'll be taking a trip to a small town in Illinois in a few days where an electric shop has a reconditioned DJ-20 with 6 mo. factory warranty on it. Price is $800. If it's in good or better shape, I'll probably buy it.
Other wise, it'll be the Griz. Thanks.
I have had the Delta DJ-20 for a few years now. I cannot compare it to any other jointer because this is the only one I have ever used (other than in Jr. High School -- too many years ago to recall). I love this jointer. I bought it new and it made perfect cuts from the time I first applied power. I need to improve my knife setting skills, but once I finally get them set it works exactly as it should. I have never had a bit of trouble with the tool. As for noise -- I would call it "moderate" until the knives get dull and then it is noticeably louder.
Good luck with whatever jointer you choose.
Dick Baker
Sunnyvale, CA
I can't speak about the Grizzly but I have worked on a lot of jointers over the years (service tech for a dealer that sold Delta, Minimax,etc) and do think the parallelogram is an excellent system over the old dovetail way style. Fairly easy to adjust with a proper straight edge and feeler gauges. The dovetail way style has limited adjustments and usually would have to be shimmed. And yes they can go out of adjustment. Even old iron can warp. I had a 16" Oliver made in the 50's I had to have reground. For $800, I'd go for the Delta. Delta has a good track record and a better resale value.
Thanks for this advise. You are confirming a suspicion that I have had, which is that if you have to rely on original accuracy that will hopefully last vs. adjustability that can always get you back to two co-planar surfaces; then the adjustability wins. I am trusting that the system is constructed in such a way as to be able to handle loads from a fairly heavy plank placed on the infeed table. As I look at the pictures, the infeed table looks quite slender in cross-section. Any thoughts on the toughness of this system vs. some of the heavy gib-style beds?
Otherwise, I appreciate the advise I have received from those that have responded.
Parallelogram system has been heavily used on European jointers for years like Martin, SCMI, etc. The Delta DJ30 uses it as well. The DJ20 has been around for quite some time and seems to hold up. I have had to shim a few older dovetail way machines over the years. The alternative is to have the entire jointer ground. This requires mounting the complete jointer on a grinder. As far as old machines I prefer the small incline type system on Oliver, Crescents. The better old machines that used dovetail way sytems have 4 point adjustability on each table. The expensive 8" Grizzly uses the parallelogram system as well.
I've been using my DJ20 for over 10 years and except for when it was new, when Delta had to send a tech out to reset the outfeed table, it's been great. I have refurnished my whole house all the cabinets etc. using rough red oak and it has never let me down. I love being able to adjust the depth of cut so easily and quickly with the lever. Good machine.
len
About those levers: On the counter-balanced parallelogram tables, are they as easy to use as handwheels? I tend to be rather old fashioned when it comes to tools and do not want to migrate to a new system unless it is as good or better than the old method. With a lever on the outfeed side, is it easy to adjust as accurately as necessary to match the blade height? Is it difficult to set the depth of cut in 1/32 or 1/16 increments?
Mike
Nothing wrong with levers. There's a screw on the side of the outfeed table of the DJ20 which allows outfeed table adjustments in thousandths and no problem doing infeed table adjustments of 1/32". All the European machines are like this near as I can recall and they lead the way in woodworking macchinery technology with sliders, edgebanders, construction boring machines, and the slot mortiser. Delta is truly a follower and not a leader in innovation.
sorry for the delay i just turned on my computer and rick is right, there is no problem adjusting either in or outfeeds.
len
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