Replies

1. 
   chrisindiana | Dec 23, 2003 12:59am | #1

   Ken,

   What model saw do you have?

   Chris

1. 
   dovetail3 | Dec 23, 2003 01:08am | #2

   Chris: Model#33-990. I bought it used. It appears

   to be in really good condition. I know it was built in

   U.S.A. Look forward to your comments

   Thanks

   Ken

1. 
   chrisindiana | Dec 23, 2003 05:09am | #5

   Ken,

   Looks like Michael R. covered the options well. If you do not have a manual you can download one from the Delta web site.

   Chris 

1. 
   Biscardi | Dec 23, 2003 05:50am | #6

   I have a Craftsman with a similar problem. There is flex in the arm and a little side to side wiggle. I have read and re-read the manual. If I tighten things down enough to fix the slop, then I can only just barely raise and lower the saw.

   Frank

1. 
   Tao | Dec 23, 2003 06:34am | #7

   >>If I tighten things down enough to fix the slop, then I can only just barely raise and lower the saw

   Unfortunately, that seems to be one of the differences between Craftsman and Delta.  The Craftsman saws with the alloy arms I have seen for the last 20 years or so don't seem to be capable of holding very good accuracy.  You just have to set things as tight as you can and still be able to make adjustments.  Check the attachment of the arm to the column carefully, as well a your clamping adjustments.

   Alternatively, you could probably find an old DeWalt 77XX from the 60's or 70's for $100 or so, and have yourself a good, cheap saw, if a little underpowered.  I don't use a RAS much, but that old DeWalt holds its adjustments pretty well for a consumer grade saw.  Makes a pretty good horizontal borer, too.

   I passed up two industrial DeWalts, a 14" and a 16" for $100 each a few weeks ago. Literally didn't have any place to put them.

   Michael R

2. 
   jako17 | Dec 24, 2003 05:11pm | #11

   The is a book that might help you with your saw :Fine tuning your radial arm saw by Jon Eakes ISBN 0-921335-04-0 Lee Valley were involved in publishing it in the late 80's.I don't know if it is still in print Seem to remember it specifically delt with Craftsman saws.The author had some interesting ways of improving RAS performance.    Happy Holidays

                                              Jako

3. 
   Biscardi | Dec 25, 2003 05:48pm | #13

   Jako,

   Thanks, I will see if I can find it.

   Frank

4. 
   jako17 | Dec 26, 2003 04:37pm | #14

   Some of the ideas can be adapted to table saw use

5. 
   CharlieP | Dec 24, 2003 05:24pm | #12

   I don't know about the newer Craftsman RAS - I have heard that there are problems keeping the alignment - but I have a very old Craftsman RAS.  The adjustment that keeps the arm from wiggling left to right is inside the column, accessible only to a contortionist with a socket wrench.  But once adjusted, mine stays solid for 15 years at a time.  So if yours is very old, there may be hope. 

2. 
   Tao | Dec 23, 2003 03:46am | #3

   First, you have to find where the movement is coming from.  There are three primary areas: the column, the arm, and the carriage.  With everything locked, push side to side on the arm and look and feel where the column comes out of the base.  If the column base wiggles, tighten the hold down bolts.  If the base is steady, but the column moves AT ALL, tighten the gib screws on the back of the column base.  This is where I have most frequently found slack on these saws.  They have to be just loose enough that the column moves up and down smoothly when well lubricated, but you can't have any perceptible slack, because it is magnified so much by the time you get to the end of the arm.

   If the column checks out, make sure the arm is locking securely at the turret.  Then check the cariage for any slack, as well as checking for alignment.  The blade should be square to the table, and should not heel or drag on one side of the cut.  The bearings are on eccentric bolts, and the tension with which the carriage rides on the rails is adjustable.  Snug but smooth is what you want. No wiggle.

   With so many adjustments, it's easy for something to loosen up, and you can get an accumulation of tolerances.  But the first place I'd look is the gibs screws that keep the column in line.

   Wouldn't hurt to look at your manual.

   Michael R.

1. 
   dovetail3 | Dec 23, 2003 04:23am | #4

   Woodwiz:

   That was a lot of information. I appreciate your time. Thanks

   much. I will try and do what you suggest. I'm a pretty good woodworker

   but not good with the mechanics of the machines I use.

   Ken

2. 
   dovetail3 | Dec 23, 2003 06:28pm | #8

   Michael:

   Do you think it's possible that once the blade is aligned square with the

   fence the saw could be fixed in position so there was no side to side movement?

   I would be willing to sacrifice the option of moving the blade for angle cuts and use it

   only for straight cut-offs and dados. If this is possible please advise me how.

   thanks

   Ken

1. 
   Tao | Dec 24, 2003 02:37am | #9

   >>Do you think it's possible that once the blade is aligned square with the fence the saw could be fixed in position so there was no side to side movement?

   You could do that, but it realy isn't necessary.  My old DeWalt gives dead-on repeatability once it's set.  Can't see any light under the blade os a 12" bevel gauge.  Your Delta is a better design, bettr made, and newer, so you should expect similar results when your saw is set up properly.  Returning to zero can be a little tricky, but I fill the slot in my table with bondo after I have the saw adjusted square, and then I lower the blade to give me a nice clean kerf in the table.  This serves as a witness line whenever I change angles and change back.  I still run the (non-spinning) blade along the leg of a framing square to check.

   If you really want to permanently set your saw to square, just tighten the gib screws in the back of the column base until nothing moves, then snug up all your adjustment clamps.  Seems like a waste to me, though.  If you have a table saw, a good crosscut sled will give you even better accuracy for square cuts.

   There are a lot of ways to get bad angles on a RAS besides loose adjustments.  The fence is short and prone to wear.  The fence needs to be in good condition, and the wood being cut needs to be tight to it.  Sawdust between the fence and the work is also a problem.  You either need to provide a place for the sawdust to go, or you need to brush or blow all the sawdust  off the table between cuts.  Use a brush, not your hands; good way to get nicked, using your hands to clean swdust off a RAS table. 

   Michael R.

1. 
   dovetail3 | Dec 24, 2003 04:34am | #10

   Michael:

   I have no idea how but I think I corrected the problem. The cut

   is not, however, absolutely perfect. It's good enough though.

   I really want to use the saw for dados. Much easier than setting

   my Forrest dado set on the table saw.

   thanks a lot

   Ken