Replies

1. 
   AlanTurner | Oct 23, 2002 04:23pm | #1

   I had one of these saws from about 1975 till 1992.  Mine was off as well, and try as I might I could never get it right.  I would loosen the trunion bolts, adjust, retighten, and re-check.  I got it better, but never dead on.  And, it moved over time, even though I thought I was tightening it sufficiently.  I never removed it to enlarge the holes to permit additional movement although I did think about it.  Just never got around to it I guess.  Finally got a Unisaw, which is adjusted by loosening the table top at the corners.  Good luck.

1. 
   riddlerouter | Oct 23, 2002 05:07pm | #2

   Not good news but thanks!

2. 
   JeffKurtz | Oct 24, 2002 07:55pm | #4

   s4s,

   Are you serious?!?!?  After putting up with an un-adjustable Delta for 17 years, you went out and bought another Delta?

   Jeff

1. 
   AlanTurner | Oct 24, 2002 09:07pm | #6

   I did. At that time I thought a Unisaw was the best table saw made. Today, I would buy differently. Plus, at that time, I dealt with a Delta dealer who seemed to have good prices, and was local, which is always my preference. Today, if I had to do it again (and, I am thinking about it) I would buy an old Oliver 232. I have located several, but not looked at one yet. Comments on this forum are quite favorable for this saw. I have an old 1920's Am. Woodworking Machinery jointer, 12", which is wonderfully heavy and accurate, althouth the trip to the basement with it was challenging.

1. 
   JeffKurtz | Oct 24, 2002 11:19pm | #7

   When I read your post, it brought to mind an event which I will never let my Father forget.  He was cutting the black ash off a swamp forty, and needed to get it done by week's end so the box car could be loaded.  His chainsaw, which had been a whole lot of trouble from day one, refused to start.  He changed the coil, the plug, the fuel.... After about the 200th pull, he said (speaking to the saw), "If you don't start on the next pull, I'm smashing you over that @#%%#@ stump."  It didn't; he did.

   He immediately walked back to the truck, drove to town and bought not only the same brand of saw, but the exact same model as well.  Now that's loyalty - or something.  (He also bought a 1956 Rambler.  Then he bought a 1960 Rambler.  What can I say?)

   Jeff

1. 
   AlanTurner | Oct 24, 2002 11:32pm | #8

   If your suggestion is that I made a mistake, I suppose I can't disagree, although the Unisaw has served me pretty well for the past 10 years.  I put on the sliding table, which is accurate, and the router is mounted in the outboard extension table, which lets me use the Unifence for it.  Quite convenient.  Still, that Oliver . . .

2. 
   JeffKurtz | Oct 25, 2002 05:52am | #9

   s4s,

   Not a mistake if it's worked well for you ten years!  Just a bit of a surprise.

   Jeff

3. 
   DaveinPa | Oct 30, 2002 03:34pm | #11

   Whats there to be surprised about. I got a Delta 10" tabletop model for $150 at Sears and it does a good job. I use it to cut molding and trim. It is also something I can move for site to site.

   Dave in Pa.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Oct 23, 2002 06:52pm | #3

   Here is the low tech, low cost way to align a tablesaw that I learned maybe forty years ago and teach to my students now.

   Make 3/4 x 3/4 x 12" hardwood stick. Drill a hole somewhat centered in one end and insert a brass #8 x 1" round head wood screw about half way. Raise the blade completely up. Clamp this board in your miter gauge (if you determine that there is some slop in your slot to miter gauge, use a playing card to take up the slop) so the screw head just about touches the blade at the front. Now rotate the blade by hand (BTW, unplug the saw) and determine which tooth is the closest. Adjust the screw in or out until it just touches this tooth. Mark this tooth. Rotate the blade so the tooth is now at the back of the table and move the miter gauge/stick assembly to the back and see if it touches the marked tooth to the same extent. If it doesn't, adjust the trunnion (if a contractor saw) or the tabletop (if a cabinet saw) until it does.

   For a contractor saw, first use a small c-clamp on the rear trunnion and cradle to keep the assembly from moving. Then loosen the two rear trunnion bolts and use a stick to tap the trunnion until the blade and screw lightly touch. The blade does not move directly around the center so you will need to repeatedly go back to the front of the blade, readjust the screw, and then again measure the back. Be sure to check after tightening the trunnion as the trunnion frequently moves when being tightened.

   The same adjustment gauge can be used to set the fence parallel to the miter slot. Slide the miter gauge to the front of the table and move the fence over to the screw head and insert a playing card between the screw head and the fence just so you can move the card as it touches both the fence and the screw head. Now move the miter gauge to the back of the table and see if you have the same feel when you insert the card. I like my fence absolutely parallel--if you want to have a slight opening to the fence, you can easily estimate the opening by adding a thickness of paper to the card.

   I always show my students with a dial gauge that their adjustments are within .001 - .002.

   You can also use the same gauge to measure blade runout by using a $5.00 feeler gauge.

1. 
   Danford_C_ | Oct 24, 2002 08:03pm | #5

   Howie,

   I love it when you talk that way....I recall you posting that long  before The Move; one of the few times I printed out something out that was "said" in a forum....excellent post.

   Dano"Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright

2. 
   riddlerouter | Oct 30, 2002 02:08pm | #10

   Tried your method and saw works great!  Thanks