Delta Unisaw – Getting blade to 90 degrees
1991 delta unisaw, recently acquired. When adjusting the blade to be 90 degrees to the table surface, it can’t quite get there. Short by 1-2 degrees. Looking under the saw, It’s not bumping into the stop that would prevent going past 90 degrees. I understand how that stop works, adjustable to make sure you don’t go past 90. But in my case the stop is about 1/4″ away from making contact but the saw blade still won’t get to 90 degrees. If I crank it way too hard, it can just about get to 90. But I want to get there the right way.
Loose dust and debris have all been cleaned out, so that’s not it. Can’t see any obstructions anywhere.
p.s. – thank you all for previous thoughts on my electrical question on this saw. In the end, I hired an electrician to add a new 240V outlet in the garage rather than rewiring the saw to run on a typical outlet.
Replies
So, cranking way to hard or just really hard to crank? There is a difference. You do get there. These trunions get arthritic. Really cleaning, old hardened grease etc can build up and appear to be actually part of the metal. Tiny bits add up. White lithium grease is what the manufacturer recommends. I'd make the gear mechanism really shine and liberally lubricate. Comes a time when to really get in there you need to remove the top. Things do wear and sometimes wear out,so there is always that.
Another place to look-- is there an arbor issue or an issue with how the blade is seated on the arbor --or even --how about the blade itself? You squaring with something, is it truly square? Your squaring to the blade after all. When all else fails there is always shimming the top.
Thanks for the response! To clarify, it cranks very easily up to about 88 degrees, then it's a fight to get to 89.8-90.0. I was trying to avoid taking the top off the saw, but I think you're right that's the only way I will get to the right answer.
It my be time to remove the wings and top to clean everything. like p-868 said- they are finicky. Time to really get in and clean. this is a great machine take your time and you will be thankful that you did.
Thanks! I think that's the way to go. My saw has one cast iron wing but I'd love one for the other side. If anyone has one just laying around...haha.
I have a cast iron wing laying around. 12" x 27" made for a sawstop PCS... not sure if the bolt pattern will match yours. It's in NYC and free to a good home, but you'll have to come and get it.
I agree with the need for cleaning. My contractors saw has lots of nooks and crannies under the table that get packed with saw dust and, from time to time, they need cleaning because it prevents full movement of the up/down and angle adjustments. All I do is unplug the saw and use compressed air to blow it all out. A dusty job, but it works.
Thanks! I vacuumed it while my dad and I had the side panel off trying to solve the issue. It guess there's some buildup somewhere that will take more elbow grease than a blowoff or vacuum can handle.
"If I crank it way too hard, it can just about get to 90. But I want to get there the right way. "
That right there tells me there is some dirt/sawdust build up in the trunions or the lead screws.
Time to pop off the top. They all should have this done periodically. Mine is past due. Good time to lube all the moving parts after you clean it really good.
I would have sworn it was packed sawdust stopping it, but if you're sure you've cleaned all the nooks and crannies then some part must be damaged.
Update - saw blade now turns easily up to 90 degrees! Thank you all for the help. While avoiding table removal, I did several rounds of shop vac followed by leaf blower. Must have cleaned it out enough to remove the blockage. It actually goes about 1-2 degrees beyond 90 and engages with the stop as designed. I will add some dry lube in a few spots to get rid of some light squeaks but I think I'm all set. Love this forum and appreciate your help!