Replies

1. 
   RMillard | May 25, 2010 07:24am | #1

   stantheman,

   I don't think attaching the top will be your greatest concern. Made from solid wood, the pattern you want, will be inherently unstable and I would be concerned about its long term survival. If you have not already made the top, you should consider doing it in veneer.

   If the project were mine, I'd make the front edge as a bent lamination , use Baltic Birch plywood as the core, and veneer the top, and the bottom. The bottom would not have to be veneered in the radial pattern like the top.

   Rob Millard

   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

   http://www.rlmillard.typepad.com

2. 
   joinerswork | May 25, 2010 08:41am | #2

   Stan,

   I agree with Rob that the best way to achieve the look you want is with veneer.  There's a very good reason why period pieces were done this way.

   You might get by with running the grain longways, from the point of each wedge to its curved end, rather than sidewise.  Seasonal movement will be an issue for sure; if the (straight) back edge of the top is thought of as the hands of a clock at 9:15, expect the back to move from 10:10 to 8: 20 from summer to winter, and you won't have any unpleasant surprises.  The end-grain edge of the semicircle can be veneered with a crossband (grain running vertically); this will ensure that it will move with the top, but be aware that it won't adhere well to the end grain.

   Conversely, running the grain across the width of each wedge will mean that you will have to spline the segments together (the grain of the splines running across the joint), to have any kind of chance of keeping them together as a unit.  Movement will have the effect of increasing or decreasing the diameter of the circle described by the top's edge- if the thing doesn't pull itself apart at the center of the back. 

   Good luck, but prepare to be disappointed.

   Ray 

3. 
   Eef | May 26, 2010 12:33pm | #3

   stan,

   just curious, how did you intend to cut those wedges had they been solid 4/4 stock? 

   eef

1. 
   stantheman | May 26, 2010 06:24pm | #4

   eef

   the walnut I had set aside had very straight and strong vertical grain patterns, almost striped which gave me the idea.  I was going to cut them so that each  of six "wedges" had  a middle stripe which  runs from point of wedge to the middle of the outside edge, as Ray described..  That way the rest of the stripes would meet to form points at each joint between wedges.  Sorry I can't explain better.  I had to draw it to explain it.

1. 
   Eef | May 26, 2010 08:20pm | #5

   hi stan,

   yes, the way you describe is clear and this way would certainly make the most of the beautiful wood you're using.  however,  what i meant was; by what method or technique will you shape the wedges.  i am in a similar situation.  i need to cut eight wedges to cap the ends of a stave constructed chest lid.  my hope was to do so using a shooting board and a well made hand plane with which to coax the precise shapes on each edge-of-the-wedge.

   eef

1. 
   RalphBarker | May 27, 2010 01:11am | #6

   wood wedgies

   I think I'd rough-cut them with a jig on the band saw, and then tune with a plane, as you were thinking, Eef.