Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Oct 15, 2004 10:25pm | #1

   It's a good looking piece so far. Mixing a mission look with maple is unusual though. I'd use the same edge treatment on the top as the the sides,eg bevel or roundover.

   Just my opinion.

2. 
   b1gcountry | Oct 15, 2004 10:45pm | #2

   You have an interesting effect going on with the three panels on the side, maybe you can segment the top a little and make a sort of divided top in three or four segments to relate to the sides. I'm not sure if the drawers are wood or veneer? The drawers look a little boxy and barren. Your hardware could make a difference, or you could try your hand at inlaying something into the face. Maybe try to divide it with some string inlay or inlay a small flower or something.

   Tom

3. 
   DaveHeinlein | Oct 16, 2004 12:49am | #3

   I think one of the reasons the DF's don't look right, is because of the size of them, and also the direction of the grain, in comparison to the end panels. If the grain direction was vertical, they would look better.

   The suggestion about the inlay is a good one. Harvey Ellis designed the inlays you find on most Gustave Stickley furniture. In fact, he designed most of that furniture.

4. 
   Curtis | Oct 16, 2004 04:04pm | #4

   Hello and good morning

   very nice! I think the drawers faces look to big, how about useing a strip of  curly maple to divide up the look of the drawer? that is make it look as if each drawer was realy two drawers.

   or how about makeing a large drawer pull out of that mapple,that should break up the boxie look of the drawers.

   as far as the top gos, I like your original intention, idea for the top.

   Good luck, Im looking forward to seeing the final product.

   C.A.G.
5. 
   tcalisto | Oct 18, 2004 04:24pm | #5

   Thanks to all for the responses.

   Big Country the drawer fronts are veneer and I think that I may have just enough left for 1 more set of fronts.

   I made some copper pulls for an armoire that I built a few years ago and was thinking about making some for this piece. They could be fairly large so as to downplay the starkness of the drawer fronts.

   Incorporating all suggestions; I could rotate the grain, frame the edge of the drawer front with maple and add large pulls. I think that this might work. 

   Thanks,

   Tom

   
6. 
   notDusty | Oct 18, 2004 05:25pm | #6

              TCALISTO ,

        One approach for the drawer fronts is to make them frame & panel . I agree about the grain in the panels should be vertical , whether they are solid or veneer . The f&p look is consistant with the Mission look you have going. Very fine looking work .

                              good     luck                    dusty

7. 
   Pondfish | Oct 19, 2004 04:21am | #7

   One more vote for:

   1) change the panels 90 degress;

   2) Inlay a thin border around the drawer about 3/4 in from the edge.  It could be a solid ebony line, or a not too fussy inlay design.  I'd keep it simple to avoid clashing with the figure.

   With those changes it should be a superb piece, given what you have already.

   Paul

8. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Oct 19, 2004 08:43am | #8

   My 2 cents worth - My personal preference would have a dark band on the top to accent it from the maple sides

   Drawer fronts - Look like they could use a frame in relation to the rest of the piece.  Existing, they really don't look like they are for the same piece. Whether the same species or the secondary species.  Raised above the face, of course.  are the fronts removable?  I don't think you need to change the grain direction. 

   
   

   ---

   Edited 10/19/2004 1:46 am ET by craig

1. 
   tcalisto | Oct 19, 2004 04:15pm | #10

   Craig,

   I had been toying with the idea of putting a 1/8" to 3/16" wide line around the transition from the bubinga to the maple on the top. I was going to do this both as a design element and to hide any gaps that I am certain that I will create.

   Luckily the drawer fronts are removable. The size of the fronts were dictated by the need to have 4 file drawers, but I agree that they need to be minimized in appearance. On the frame of the desk the rails/drawer blades are set back from the legs by 1/8". I was thinking about incorporating this set back into the "drawer front frames". What do you think, have the rails proud of the face by about 3/16" and the stiles proud by only 1/8" or should I keep the frame in the same plane? Additionally if I treat the file drawers with a frame what should be done with the pencil drawer. It is only about 3.5" deep.

   Thanks for your help,

   Tom

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Oct 19, 2004 06:27pm | #12

   The pencil drawer really isn't large enough to worry about.  most drawers this size are one solid peice with a routed detail on the edge to dress it up.  Attached is a photo of a custom drawer with rope molding.  I beleive these are 3-3 1/4" tall.

   I would say do your frame 3/16", you could set your TS blade to the height of the frame and just cut the veneer and apply frame, or even make some 3/16 stock & apply. 

   On your top, let me try to say this another way ( my brain is thinking better now) .  What I forsee, with the top being bubinga and the edge being curly maple and the sides being maple, you will not have a contrast from the sides of the unit to your edging, which you will want to highlight with the figure to accentuate it.  If I understand you correctly, you are going to bevel the edge.  What I would recommend is a dark band on the perimeter which will differentiate the curly maple from the panels on the desk.   

   Craig.

   Edited 10/19/2004 11:30 am ET by craig

   
1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Oct 19, 2004 06:33pm | #13

   Heres's the attachment

   
9. 
   BG | Oct 19, 2004 03:14pm | #9

   TCALISTO,

   Your desk is beautiful, looking forward to seeing the completed project. I have very little artistic ability and am enjoying the comments/suggestions of others.

   About two months ago I built a two draw vertical file that is strikingly similar in design to one of your sections.  Mine was oak...with solid draw fronts....and I could not figure how modify the draw fronts ...but quickly determined, like you, cockbeading was not going to work.  Eventually, I just recessed the drawer slightly (1/4") so it matched the side panels and with the locks and handles it looks pretty good... very much a vertical file however.  I'm curious how thick your top will be.  Good luck
1. 
   tcalisto | Oct 19, 2004 04:27pm | #11

   Thanks everyone for the advice and encouragement. I am going to try to get a mock-up together and post that tomorrow for review. I am looking forward to getting this piece out of the shop. First because I am about 2 months past my promise date and secondly so that I may get my new shop in order. I have been trying to work out of unmarked boxes for a month now and it is getting old. No storage or bench space yet.

   Thanks again,

   Tom