Replies

1. 
   s_g_martin | Nov 21, 2020 10:32am | #1

   You can achieve a nice looking and durable finish with minwax wipe on poly, 4-5 light coats.

   Making your own wipe on varnish is another way to go. Mix equal parts varnish, linseed or tung oil, and mineral spirits. I prefer this finish over a straight poly, it has a better look and feel, although poly will be a bit more durable.

2. 
   stantheman | Nov 21, 2020 03:52pm | #2

   The only two finishes I know that do not add color are waterborne poly (most of them anyway) and lacquer. You might find the natural color to look too cold under a clear finish. I'd try the waterborne first and see how it looks and to practice your brushing technique. I have a hard time getting an even finish without brush marks, drips and runs.

3. 
   john_c2 | Nov 21, 2020 05:39pm | #3

   I've never found much in the way of finish at the big box stores.

   I use a lot of cherry. My finish routine is 2 coats of Zinsser Sealcoat (a dewaxed shellac), followed by 2 coats of General Finishes high performance waterborne poly. After a little time the cherry darkens wonderfully from the sun. I would never use stain or dye on cherry.

4. 
   mikaol | Nov 21, 2020 08:22pm | #4

   I don't use much cherry. It's too light-colored for my taste. Anyhow, the one time I used cherry for a customer I first applied oxalic acid to even out the color before finishing.
   Can't help much with the finish, though. I use only oils. But, in that vein, a good tung oil won't add color to the wood. Good, as in 'pure.'
   Mikaol

5. 
   bilyo | Nov 21, 2020 11:06pm | #5

   I agree with s_g_martin. That mix is attractive with cherry and very easy to use. You can use poly as the varnish portion. The main caution is to apply it very thinly. I apply it with a pad of folded blue shop towel. The pad should be only dampened with the finish. Think of it as wiping off a counter top with a damp (not wet) cloth. The wiping should leave only the thinnest amount. For durability, you can increase the proportion of poly in the mix with each coat.
   I have also had good success by starting with a flood coat of danish oil and wiping off excess after about 15 minutes. Then, after curing for about 12 hours, put on 2-3 coats of oil based poly. The slight amber tone of both, to me, complements the natural color of cherry. Starting with the danish will minimize the tendency of cherry to blotchiness. As mentioned, cherry will darken naturally in response to light, particularly sunlight.

6. 
   DRBWWing | Nov 22, 2020 07:59am | #6

   If you have good color match, you don’t need to do anything to cherry it will darken to a beautiful deep color in a couple years. Have to disagree on dyeing, tho. Cherry can be dyed, as mentioned to even out color when you don’t want to wait.

   I’m a big fan of EM8000 conversion varnish (Target Coatings). I’ve used this on my dining table and it is holding up quite well. You need a spray set up. There is a crosslinker additive for even more durability.

   As an aside, years ago I had a glass top made for one of my desks and I likes it a lot, especially being able to slip reference notes or cards under the glass.

   I’ve had them on both end tables and my coffee table, too..

7. 
   mikefm101 | Nov 23, 2020 07:53am | #7

   I’ve used water base poly as a protective topcoat on desks several times. Holds up very well. Three coats was enough.

   Shellac, wait a few days for it to cure fully then the water base.

   I’ve used the Minwax from the big box stores.

   Another favorite is Arm R Seal, but that’s solvent based so I use it selectively in my basement shop. You will need to order that from Rockler, Woodcraft or similar.

   The cherry will change color over time though. Nothing you can do about it.

   Mike