Hello all,
First let me say I have enjoyed the forum so far during my short membership here. I was hoping though to capitalize on some wisdom from the group. I have a law firm in Missouri that has requested I make the desk pictured below but out of figured Bubinga. I have tackled radius projects like this before but they have requested a 1 1/2″ thick solid top. My problem is how to attach the top, allow for seasonal movement, and yet keep the streamline look to it. The material I will be utilizing is quarter sawn which will lessen the amount of movement.
The options that I have come up with so far are as follows…
Use 2 or 3 full depth sliding dovetails (front to back) that slide in from the back of the desk.
Running a 1 1/2″ cleat around the top of the base of the desk and use elongated holes with screws.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Robby Phelps RP Custom Woodworks
Edited 2/9/2005 1:12 am ET by Robby
Replies
The dovetail splines are not that easy to do and they will permanently affix the top to the base. Does the entire top need to be 1 1/2" or just the edges? Elongated screw holes would work. Do you intend to have webbing at the top of the base? If so, you could run a groove or just some biscuit cutter slots and use table top fasteners. They are sort of a Z shaped, small metal bracket designed for attaching tops. They screw into the top and clip into the groove. The desk looks large, you will be able to move it around easier if it isn't all fastened in one piece. Remember you will have to get it in through doors. Movers often grab such items by the top. With that large overhang, there will be a lot of stress put on any fasteners. I think I would make the top detachable.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I think I would probably use dovetail keys, screwed to the top on the inside of the desk, and then stopped in the vertical, curved panel. One about every 6 inches would be sufficient to permit the desk to be lifted by the top, I would think. It would permit easy disassembly for moving and initial setup. Should not take too much effort for this method. YOu could use offcuts of the Bubinga for the key stock, as it is quite strong. Cut the keys a tad large, fit with a plane, screw to the top when in place. Nice commission, by the way. Is that your design?
Alan
http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com
Robby,
I like the idea of battens, 2 or 3, attached with sliding dovetails. Taper the ends to 1/2" so they aren't seen. Stop them 1 or2" shy of the edge, plug the entry slot with a facegrain dovetail plug. Notch the base of the table to accept the battens, and attach them from inside.
Regards,
Ray
Just as the others have stated... Geeeee I wanted to be first!
See Housed Sliding Dovetails in FWW articles.
Thank you all for your help. I really love the chance to learn from you all and appreciate your time. I do feel I need to describe the project a little more to help everyone understand what I am trying to do.
The top must be removable. I has to go up 4 flights of stairs and there is no way to get it through the door and up all of those stairs assembled. They are also planning on moving in the next couple of years so it has to be able to disassemble fairly easily as well
The client has also requested no drawers or doors on the base which leaves no access to screw through the top.
I have more or less decided on using the cleat with elongated screws. I worry if I use the dovetail keys that I will deliver the piece and assemble it then in a few years when they move the top will have bound on the dovetail keys and not disassemble. This law firm is over 16 hours away from me so a call back to take it apart would be less then easy. The lawyers are also very particular and I am afraid they will not like the dovetail notches in the top. (even if I plug them with dovetail plugs.)
I have attached a crude picture I drew to show the cleat and the elongated screw pattern I am thinking about. Let me know what you think.
Again thanks,
Robby Phelps RP Custom Woodworks
In my opine you can't go wrong with elongated slots.
Mind you the z cleats as mentioned would do the same job in half the time.
My mate who is the top man in a big furniture makers outfit agrees and he doesn't want things coming back.
Are they dead set against a veneered top?
Tom
Douglasville, GA
Hi Tom,
They are DEAD set against a veneer top. They had seen a Sam Maloof rocker that I made with figured Bubinga and had to have the same grain pattern. He is very determined to have solid wood. I tried to find the same figure in some veneer with no luck. I have the lumber acclimating in my shop already so it is a done deal.
Robby Phelps RP Custom Woodworks
Since they are set against veneer I would use the elongated slots or some type of button or figure 8 desktop fastener.Tom
Douglasville, GA
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